Thread: Powertech Clear Pipe (anyone used)

I wouldn't call that stuff clear, at best its translucent.

An alternative is to make a length of clear pipe yourself using something like 1mm thick polycarbonate (PC sheet).
Here is how I did my DC "viewing window", I placed it just above the entrance to the DC impeller so I can see into the impeller to see if has become clogged.
It's basically a piece of PC wrapped around the PVC and has two lips folded along the pipe that are screwed together with small nuts and bolts.
You don't need to heat PC to bend it or form lips as it can be worked cold.
Standard hose clamps hold the thing in place.
I can loosen the clamps and slide it up and stick my hand in to clear any blockages only one in 10 years when I suck up a rag.
joiner4.jpg

The PC sheet came from Plastics Warehouse - 2.4 x 1.2 x 1mm cost $55.
PC is tough stuff and is useful for all sorts of things like guards, windows etc
I enclosed my 3D printer with it.
enc.JPG

at $40 a meter and coming from the US its going to get VERY expensive VERY quick trying to use it.

Originally Posted by cparker88

I'm biting the bullet and putting in some fixed ducting (4") in my small shop. Just wondering if anyone can comment on this Powertech clear pipe being sold at Amazon? I really like the idea of at least having one section of the clear in a run for the emotional satisfaction of seeing the dust and chips fly away?

Anything I should consider?

Chris,
why 4" ducting?

BobL, usually recommends that dust collectors be connected with 6" or larger ducting. And that the machine ports be opened out to 6".

Originally Posted by ian

Chris,
why 4" ducting?

BobL, usually recommends that dust collectors be connected with 6" or larger ducting. And that the machine ports be opened out to 6".

Good point - but seeing he has a small shop (need to clarify actual size) he could still use 4" as long as he adds forced ventilation of which small shops don't need much to extract the fine dust.

Originally Posted by BobL

Good point - but seeing he has a small shop (need to clarify actual size) he could still use 4" as long as he adds forced ventilation of which small shops don't need much to extract the fine dust.

True.
But Chris does live in the Blue Mountains where temperatures usually hover around zero for 3 months and average below 10 for a further 4 months or so.


Adopting forced air ventilation might be a chilly experience ...

Originally Posted by ian

True.
But Chris does live in the Blue Mountains where temperatures usually hover around zero for 3 months and average below 10 for a further 4 months or so.


Adopting forced air ventilation might be a chilly experience ...

Put on an extra jumper?

Originally Posted by BobL

Put on an extra jumper?

Ha, ha

It's still officially Fall here in Canada, it won't get really cold (like minus 40) till February.
The temperature in my 1-1/2 car garage "shed" is around 7°C and hovering just 0 the other side of the roller door.
Working in the "shed" requires a bit more than "putting on a jumper".

On a typical day this time of year (equivalent to a winter's day in the Blue Mnts) I'm wearing long thermal underwear plus a thermal T-shirt and padded vest under my shop clothes with the "jumper" on top.
If I were to have the garage door open for ventilation, then I'd have another entire layer on and be looking at investing in a heated jacket.


Don't let the balmy winters in Perth fool you. The Blue Mnts are much much colder.

Originally Posted by ian

Don't let the balmy winters in Perth fool you. The Blue Mnts are much much colder.

Average lows for Perth in June was 7ºC which included a couple of 1ºC mornings, around about when I walk the dogs. At those temps I just wear a T-shirt under my flannel shirt and a wind cheater over. I also typically wear shorts unless its <~5ºC . My shed is often below 10º in the mornings but with average maxes of 18º (lowest was 13) it warms up so by mid morning I'm often down to my T-shirt in the shed. When it's not raining do have some beautiful sunny days in winter and I love that time of teh year.

Because of record rainfall in July (271mm), average lows for the month were just over 10ºC (1º more than September, and same as October), lowest daily low was ~6ºC and I wore shorts the whole of July, walking the dogs in the rain in shorts sends SWMBO barmy.

Unless you count the 2kW coffee machine (which in practise works out to about 250W continuous) we use no heating and just let the house run cold over winter. Usually it gets down to and stays around 14ºC (this year it got to 13º for about a month). We turn on the heating for the few times the grannies or mum comes to visit.

Lovely little side diversion into a game of, “you think that’s cold, well …” )

Though it’s pretty much on the mark. I was planning to do forced ventilation in my small under-the-house workshop. Thankfully I am in the lower blue mountains (Glenbrook) which doesn’t get anywhere near the cold temperatures quoted. Yep, I’ll add another jumper on.

Though perhaps the main reason I’m not going 150mm is I’m quite daunted by modifying my DC inlet and outlet. That seems hard core. I am acting on the assumption that going with 150mm duct is a waste of time and money if I’m not modifying the DC and the outlet on the machines???

Chris

Mates,

I’m going to therefore need a recommendation of where to source a decent, super quite forced ventilation wall fan from you remarkably learned folks.

Chris

How big is your workshop? (L x W x H)

To answer the original question, the Powertech hose works fine. After use it ends up hazy but you can still see if stuff is going through.

Edit: Look around for pricing. When I last bought it, it was the cheapest available. May not be any longer.

That is an easy question by a complex answer. It’s a very odd shape due to being under the house but my calculation is 84m3.