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Thread: PVC pipe setup

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    yep its the issue of the plastic bags 1 plastic bag would be ideal for me filter bag isn't so much a problem. is there a way to retrofit pleated filters? I belive the filter bags are 5 micron whereas the pleated filters are 1 micron? Is there a way to set it up so the ducts aren't on the floor?
    I had one of those DC's a while back and remember thinking that all one needed to do to get the ducts close to the ceiling was to remove the two rings that hold the bags from the curvy duct. Flip the DC upside down and either attach it to the ceiling or make a separate frame and attach to that. The curvy duct would be pointing down now instead of up. Reconnect the bag rings to the curvy duct so the bags are still in the original orientation. You might have to open or drill new bolt holes at the connection but that wouldn't be the end of the world. Now the ducts running along the ceiling have a straight shot into the DC.

    Now if you want to replace the bags with cartridges you can do it along the same lines as Wynn Environmental suggest. Woodworking Filters • Wynn Environmental. There is a link at the bottom of that page to help you pick the right size and the pictures suggest what you need to do. If you source filters from a Aussie industrial supplier Like the one in this thread. cartridge dust filter suppliers in Oz. You'll need to specify the direction of the airflow.

    If you can only get filters that flow from out to in you would need to fabricate a box around the filters like they do in industry. Cartridge Collectors – Baghouse.com. You could adapt something like a sandblast cabinet for example to hold the filters. The Clear Vue site in the US has a gallery of cyclone installations and there are a few that put filters in a box. Gallery Held horizontally with one end open to the shop, you would blow them out and collect the dust that falls into the hopper below. It could also be a 45gal/200L drum. Best if this was done outside.

    If you were going to go to the trouble of the above it would improve things if you were to modify the impeller housing like Bob describes in the forum sticky on modifying the Generic 2hp DC. With a three phase version of the DC you could overspeed it to 60 cycles like we have here and gain 20% or better airflow.

    You can do some or all of the above in stages that suit your time and budget but getting the DC outside would be the best thing to start with.

    While it would be nice if we could walk into a showroom and hand over a half a grand and waltz out with a perfect system but it doesn't happen like that. Best way to look at it is the DCs are a starting kit that you'll be adding to to make them work.

    Pete

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  3. #17
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    My dust extractor has a 200mm inlet - should the main trunk start out as 200mm before reducing to 150mm or should I just go straight to 150mm?

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    My dust extractor has a 200mm inlet - should the main trunk start out as 200mm before reducing to 150mm or should I just go straight to 150mm?
    The least resistive transition from 200 to 150 mm is a tapered transition. A rule of thumb is the translition length should be about 10 duct diameters but this can be difficult to make and fit into spaces around a DC so much shorter transitions are often used.

    Here is a budget example using a plant pot.
    inputPort.jpg

    Another approach is to used a Bell Mouth Hood like this
    joiner4.jpg

  5. #19
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    I might try and 3D something

    Should the terminal machines just have a 88deg DWV or should I use a Y section and cap off the end? I see a lot of people's setup on youtube, their last machines is on a Y with the other end capped.

    Also, if space is avaliable what is better 88deg DWV vs 2x 45 with say 300mm between them?

    (I am probably over thinking things)

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    Also, if space is avaliable what is better 88deg DWV vs 2x 45 with say 300mm between them?
    You asked that question in post #1 and BobL answered it in post #2.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    I might try and 3D something

    Should the terminal machines just have a 88deg DWV or should I use a Y section and cap off the end? I see a lot of people's setup on youtube, their last machines is on a Y with the other end capped.
    Using a 90º on a terminal Machine is no biggie as a 90º is easy to remove if the trunk/main duct needs extending.

    Bearing in mind that even blanked off junctions add further to turbulence and reduce flow, if there is space and a possibility that other machines my need to be connected up in the future inserting extra Y's every few metres into the trunk/main duct in between machine take offs is worth considering.

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    I might try .........Also, if space is avaliable what is better 88deg DWV vs 2x 45 with say 300mm between them?
    Bob posted this link once upon a time (thanks Bob) and if you look at page 54 you will see how much equivalent straight pipe drag a fitting has. So if you put a pair of 45º fittings and a foot of pipe between you'll have 31' of drag which is more than a 90º fitting with a 1R or 1 1/2R. So in most cases two 45º fittings is not a good idea.

    Pete

  9. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    You asked that question in post #1 and BobL answered it in post #2.
    damn my bad. Memory sucks.

    Thanks for the responses

    I just priced something up the plumbing is more then what I expected :O

  10. #24
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    We used this mob when we set up the last big joinery shop, and the old man got stuff from them when he put a bit in at the shed at home, it’s good and easy and relatively cheap compared to PVC. Ezi-Duct - Ducting Australia

  11. #25
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    wow the ezi-duct is actually cheaper than PVC? I cant see any prices on their website, will need to give them a ring

    edit: also, stormwater and DWV cross compatible? eg I use stormwater pipe, Y junction and 45, and then use DWV for 90

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    wow the ezi-duct is actually cheaper than PVC?
    not the words he used. "relatively cheap" does not mean cheaper
    but report back findings !

  13. #27
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    [QUOTE=qwertyu;2170655]wow the ezi-duct is actually cheaper than PVC? I cant see any prices on their website, will need to give them a ring[QUOTE]

    There's a very wide range of PVC prices around.

    EG 90º bend
    Bunnings price $35 https://www.bunnings.com.au/holman-1...-bend_p0149142

    Pipeonline's price i less than half ie $16!! DWV FITTINGS - DWV PLAIN BEND - Pipe Online - Retic Fittings , Plumbing Fittings, Reticulation Supplies supplied Australia wide

    also, stormwater and DWV cross compatible? eg I use stormwater pipe, Y junction and 45, and then use DWV for 90
    150 mm duct and fittings are cross compatible with DWV. There's no such thing as 100 mm stormwater (closest is 90 mm stormwater).

  14. #28
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    [QUOTE=qwertyu;2170655]wow the ezi-duct is actually cheaper than PVC? I cant see any prices on their website, will need to give them a ring[QUOTE]

    There's a very wide range of PVC prices around.

    EG 90º bend
    Bunnings price $35 https://www.bunnings.com.au/holman-1...-bend_p0149142

    Pipeonline's price i less than half ie $16!! DWV FITTINGS - DWV PLAIN BEND - Pipe Online - Retic Fittings , Plumbing Fittings, Reticulation Supplies supplied Australia wide

    also, stormwater and DWV cross compatible? eg I use stormwater pipe, Y junction and 45, and then use DWV for 90
    150 mm duct and fittings are cross compatible with DWV. There's no such thing as 100 mm stormwater (closest is 90 mm stormwater).

  15. #29
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    How did you get on with this? Was the metal quickfit ducting price comparative?

  16. #30
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    I didnt end up asking. I still have a LONG way to go before setting it all up my shed is a mess

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