Thread: remote for dc-7

Originally Posted by Kuffy

is there a way of doing it without having to open up the switch gear and changing things inside it?

I don't think so Kuffy. I wonder why on earth would they fit a zero voltage cutout switch to a DE?

Originally Posted by Kuffy

is there a quick and easy way of installing a remote switch to turn on a dc7 dusty. it has one of those switches which wont allow it to be turned on if it was turned off due to a power outage for example. forces you to physically press the on button to turn it on. because of this I cant just use a lead with a on/off switch on the end of it like i would do with a router table.

my dusty is inside a cupboard inside the garage which is vented outside (in a very harry hack kinda way). i dont wanna open the doors to turn it on everytime because it allows alot of the dust inside the cupboard to enter the garage workspace and then the rest of the house. not a single flat surface inside my house is not covered in dust.

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the remote doesnt need to be a fancy gadget which is infrared or radio frequency. a simple switch physically wired to the motor on the side of the cupboard will be just fine. is there a way of doing it without having to open up the switch gear and changing things inside it?

Kuffy,

I started with a DC-3 and then moved up to a DC-7. With the DC-3, I got an electrician to replace the zero voltage cut-out switch with a simple on/off switch, and then used a Clipsal Remote Control Power Outlet (from Bunnies) to remote control the 2HP dusty.

When I bought the DC-7, I had the same surgery done on the DC-7's switch. I have used both a Clipsal and HPM branded remote control power outlets with the 3 HP dusty, but unfortunately both devices have been unable to cope with the start-up currents drawn by the 3HP motor. The local electrician suggested that he could get a 15 amp remote control power outlet, but it was at a cost of over $200, plus installation, so I haven't gone ahead with it yet. I'm waiting to see whether anyone replying to this thread comes up with a cheaper solution.

RoyG

Originally Posted by jack620

I don't think so Kuffy. I wonder why on earth would they fit a zero voltage cutout switch to a DE?

There is a very good reason and it's the same reasons why they are fitted to any other machine.
Lets say the power fails and someone thinks the power is off and starts poking their hands around inside the impeller and suddenly the power comes back on again.
Kinda makes me squirm just thinking about it.

Kuffy there is no way around it other than bypassing the switch which I don't recommend.
I removed the switch, extended the wires, and moved the switch to inside the shed.

Originally Posted by BobL

I removed the switch, extended the wires, and moved the switch to inside the shed.

Roy's post about the 3hp motor sucking too much startup current got me thinking as to why those zero voltage cutout switches are installed. if i removed that switch and replaced it with just a on/off switch, as soon as the power flickers on and off (happened to me a couple of months ago running the drill press, on/off/on/off/on/off/on and finally off again for about an hour), it would almost certainly blow my houses 10amp circuit, possibly fry the line and start a fire

bob, thats a pretty decent suggestion. im no electrician, but i guess it will just be 2 or 3 wires. cut em, extend em. tape it all up and hope the thing doesnt catch on fire. dont tell my insurance company please kthx

Originally Posted by Kuffy

Roy's post about the 3hp motor sucking too much startup current got me thinking as to why those zero voltage cutout switches are installed. if i removed that switch and replaced it with just a on/off switch, as soon as the power flickers on and off (happened to me a couple of months ago running the drill press, on/off/on/off/on/off/on and finally off again for about an hour), it would almost certainly blow my houses 10amp circuit, possibly fry the line and start a fire

No-volt switches have nothing to do with start up currents. The are designed to work when there is power and to cut out if there is a power drop out.

bob, thats a pretty decent suggestion. im no electrician, but i guess it will just be 2 or 3 wires. cut em, extend em. tape it all up and hope the thing doesnt catch on fire. dont tell my insurance company please kthx

Or you could do it properly and not cut any wires.
These switches usually use spade connectors.
Note exactly which coloured wire goes where and then slide the spade connectors off the switch lugs on the motor side.
Remove the switch and make up an proper extension using the proper male and female spade connectors (e.g. http://www.altronics.com.au/p/h2006a...e-crimp-pk-10/) and the connect everything up again.

Originally Posted by BobL

No-volt switches have nothing to do with start up currents. The are designed to work when there is power and to cut out if there is a power drop out.

perhaps i communicated things poorly. i realise the no voltage switch has nothing to do with the startup currents. the no voltage switches prevent the machine from being turned back on after the power supply has dropped out and then been reconnected. for example, if i had the dusty running, connected via an extension lead, i disconnect the lead and naturally enough the dusty turns off because there is no power. i then reconnect the lead, so now the machine has power but it still wont start because of the no voltage switch. if i remove that no voltage switch and replace it with a stock standard on/off switch, the dusty will turn off when there is no power, and then turn back on instantly when there is power, much the same as a fridge does when the power comes back on after a blackout. imagine that happening to a 3hp (2250watt) motor 5 or 6 times within the timeframe of one minute which is connected to a 10amp circuit. it will hopefully trip the circuit breaker, but possibly not. so now i will be drawing whateva the startup current is (perhaps 15-16amps??? i dunno) for the space of 1minute through a 1.5mm^2 standard 3 wire electrical lead. it will heat up and short out, start a fire and then i gotta deal with the insurance mob.

hopefully the switch has spade connections. makes everything pretty simple, legbone is connected to the hipbone etc etc

Originally Posted by Kuffy

perhaps i communicated things poorly. i realise the no voltage switch has nothing to do with the startup currents. the no voltage switches prevent the machine from being turned back on after the power supply has dropped out and then been reconnected. for example, if i had the dusty running, connected via an extension lead, i disconnect the lead and naturally enough the dusty turns off because there is no power. i then reconnect the lead, so now the machine has power but it still wont start because of the no voltage switch. if i remove that no voltage switch and replace it with a stock standard on/off switch, the dusty will turn off when there is no power, and then turn back on instantly when there is power, much the same as a fridge does when the power comes back on after a blackout. imagine that happening to a 3hp (2250watt) motor 5 or 6 times within the timeframe of one minute which is connected to a 10amp circuit. it will hopefully trip the circuit breaker, but possibly not. so now i will be drawing whateva the startup current is (perhaps 15-16amps??? i dunno)

Why is it being switched on and off so often?

Originally Posted by Kuffy

(happened to me a couple of months ago running the drill press, on/off/on/off/on/off/on and finally off again for about an hour)

lightning had struck the overhead powerlines (or i guess it was lightning, happened during a lightning storm). Im not physically turning the dusty on and off frequently, i let the dusty run for hours on end whether i have other machinery running or not.

I've found the Kambrook remotes handle 15 amp draw without issues.

Some time back I asked around for an official 15 amp version but couldnt find one anywhere.

Regarding zero volt switches, why aren't the switches on walls fitted with them? It seems beneficial that all power points in a workshop worked exactly this way...

I'd imagine the garage is pretty damned likely place for freak electrical incident.

Remote on/off buttons are no problem, I suggest get a sparky to do it tho, I'd also suggest thinking about getting more than just one set, ultimately at each machine but maybe just an extra set located strategically, I have two sets atm but wiring is there ready for when I get around to the other two sets.



Pete

With Bobs guidance, I made a remote switch for my dc7, which included moving the NVR switch. PM me your email address and I will send a diagram through.

Originally Posted by Evanism

I've found the Kambrook remotes handle 15 amp draw without issues.
Some time back I asked around for an official 15 amp version but couldnt find one anywhere.
Regarding zero volt switches, why aren't the switches on walls fitted with them? It seems beneficial that all power points in a workshop worked exactly this way... .

Good point.

Tools with triggers (unless they are locked) are covered by the trigger and you wouldn't want something like fridge or lighting plugged into such a power point.
Tools like hot air guns and angle grinders would also probably benefit from having something like that but I would rather see it on the tool itself so that it works that way when used away from the shed.
Locking triggers could be made so that they unlatch on power cut out. It doesn't have to be a power failure, it could be as simple as the plug is pulled from the switch.

Such a switch would have prevented this injury

Belt sander: I was sanding 20 ft long pieces of timber on a long workbench. Needing a break and standing next to the power point on the wall I just reached down and turned the power off, carried the sander to the other end of the wood near the door and went to get some coffee. Came back, reached down to the power point and turned on the power. The belt sander (with the switch still locked on), raced across 20 ft of timber, and hit me dead in the left eye crushing every bone on the left side of my head. When I came to, three hours later, I was taken by ambulance to the hospital for 6 separate reconstructive surgeries. Eyesight will never be the same.

Every time I electrically modify any machine that doesn't have a no volt switch that is generally the first thing I add.