Thread: Remote dust collector activation options

Hi Bob,
Wow, just finished reading all your notes on DRAFT Ducting Recommendations. Crikey that is good knowledge.
So, If I modify the inlet and outlet ports for both the Cyclone and the 2HP H&F Dusty to 6" (150mm stormwater to be precise), modify my TableSaw, Slide Compound Mitre Saw box, Thinknesser, Planer, BandSaw, Linisher, Spindle Sander, Router Table, etc outlets to as big as possible, run a series of Y fittings to my backbone and reduce the lengths of flexi, I will have as optimised a solution as can be put in place?

I will work on all of this! I have learned a number of areas that I have messed up with my existing 90mm layout.

So the next big question is GATES!

Do I make them or buy them? What have you done here?
I'm going to need plenty so if you happen to have a handy design I can make some templates for mass production.

What is a manual gate worth to buy, and where from?

Chris put me on to an automated gate manufacturer (Aussie made) but no mention of price - have to submit a quotation request.

Thank you so much for your help. I wish you lived in Brisbane/Ipswich!

Cheers,

Tom Hayes

Hi NCArcher,

Thank you for that response. When I first looked at the ebay specs, I noticed the 30A 1.5HP rating and thought WTH? Then I scrolled down further and they showed a picture of the 30A and their 40A device in comparison. That was when I started to get a bit more excited...

As for the contactor, I guess I need to research them more and find actual devices I could use. Thank you for confirming my understanding on how that works.

Cheers,

Tom Hayes

Originally Posted by ImInterested

Hi Bob,
Wow, just finished reading all your notes on DRAFT Ducting Recommendations. Crikey that is good knowledge.
So, If I modify the inlet and outlet ports for both the Cyclone and the 2HP H&F Dusty to 6" (150mm stormwater to be precise), modify my TableSaw, Slide Compound Mitre Saw box, Thinknesser, Planer, BandSaw, Linisher, Spindle Sander, Router Table, etc outlets to as big as possible, run a series of Y fittings to my backbone and reduce the lengths of flexi, I will have as optimised a solution as can be put in place?

I will work on all of this! I have learned a number of areas that I have messed up with my existing 90mm layout.

So the next big question is GATES!

Yeah 90 mm is never going to work.

Do I make them or buy them? What have you done here?

People do both, I've made all 17 of mine and about 12 for the mens shed.

I'm going to need plenty so if you happen to have a handy design I can make some templates for mass production.

There is a thread called "Blast gate gallery" in the dust forum, have a look there./

What is a manual gate worth to buy, and where from?

Cheap (ie plastic) gates are available from wood working suppliers like Timbecon and Carbatech. They also sell automated ones as well.

Chris put me on to an automated gate manufacturer (Aussie made) but no mention of price - have to submit a quotation request.

If you are referring to Autoblastgates their prices are on their website.

as a been there tried that, still not achieved anything cause I am always changing the shop.
rules/suggestions
1 forget 95% of the youtube crap, they all talk about 90mm BOLLOCKS. started there then started changing over to 150, yee gods and little fishes the difference was amazing, yes the upfront price was something to contend with, dont try shopping at bunnies or Reece plumbing if you have them. there are a number of decent price suppliers we have Samios Plumbing. there is also a WA outfit but you would be paying for freight.

I found various copies of blast gate and found that 3mm MDF is trouble, go for 6 or 9mm. they were good, I was happy with them.

Then recently in redesigning the shed I wanted a trunk line to run alone the fllor behind a workbench/cabinet that would have drill press (free standing at one end), then SCMS, Kreg router bench (fitted) then 14" band saw at other end. This trunk line needed blast gates that would be easy to open/close from somewhere in front of bench. BLAHHHH, tried one idea and although his design was great and worked well, he would not share his design and my calculations and his left a lot to be desired. So I splashed out and bought a number of the Autoblastgates, I cannot say enough about their quality. Although I am not finished I was caught out today turning different machines on/off just to watch these gates open/close automatically. They are fantastic.

So enough ramblings, I love red wine) without hesitation, go 150mm pipe, chew up your machine tools openings and convert to 150. (that is damn scary) and if necessary make your own blast gates but install in such a way that you can split the system and add better quality ones when finance permits.

Originally Posted by ImInterested

Chris put me on to an automated gate manufacturer (Aussie made) but no mention of price - have to submit a quotation request.

Cheers,

Tom Hayes

Hi Tom, Auto Blast Gates pricing can be found here https://autoblastgates.com.au/pricing
We also have a remote control unit. 10A or 15A.

Hi BobL and TonyZ,

Bob - you are absolutely correct! (Of course). AutoBlastGates do show pricing on their website. I must be getting old....

Thanks to your Blast Gate Gallery (Post/Thread?) I have really obtained a lot of great ideas on building my own gates economically. Priced up 150mm DWV floor flanges from the local Tradelink in Darra as they give me trade pricing and can get them for $4.40 each. I have a few old Al road signs which I will use and plenty of cut off ply/mdf. Hence, apart from time and a few screws I should be able to make these gates for around $10 each. That's only about $170 for all 17 gates and they wont crack like the 100mm plastic gates I have now!

TonyZ - Thank you so much for your contribution. I will be taking your advice and ensuring I plan for future upgrading to the most used gates. I also love watching things auto on-off and have come to the conclusion that once my upgrade is carried out I will spend a fair bit of time simply opening and shutting gates whilst having a beer/wine simply for the joy of watching.

As my shed can get a bit hot on the top level, My first auto opening is going to be a flanged bell close to the apex of the shed on that level. When not actively using equipment, I will open it to suck the hot air away.
My second will probably be a joiner I am placing in the Outlet from the DC to give me a blower for my coke forge.

This is exciting stuff - Just got to work out how to 'hide' the expenses from the CFO as she can get a bit upset at my spending patterns on a hobby!

You guys are all awesome and extremely generous in your time to assist. If any of you are in the Brisbane/Ipswich area - I'll shout you a cold beer (or Red wine) as a more personal thanks.

Cheers,

Tom

Hi NCArcher,
Yup, you are correct. I don't know how I missed the prices. Old, blonde, balding and a bit of 'beer bubble-wrap' are making me miss some things..Doh!

Originally Posted by ImInterested

Hi BobL and TonyZ,

Bob - you are absolutely correct! (Of course). AutoBlastGates do show pricing on their website. I must be getting old....

Thanks to your Blast Gate Gallery (Post/Thread?) I have really obtained a lot of great ideas on building my own gates economically. Priced up 150mm DWV floor flanges from the local Tradelink in Darra as they give me trade pricing and can get them for $4.40 each. I have a few old Al road signs which I will use and plenty of cut off ply/mdf. Hence, apart from time and a few screws I should be able to make these gates for around $10 each. That's only about $170 for all 17 gates and they wont crack like the 100mm plastic gates I have now!

I no longer recommend Al as a material for gates. Small amounts of grit and sawdust get caught in the sliding mechanism eventually galls the Al and increases teh friction to the point where then are a PITA to use.

Originally Posted by BobL

I no longer recommend Al as a material for gates. Small amounts of grit and sawdust get caught in the sliding mechanism eventually galls the Al and increases teh friction to the point where then are a PITA to use.

So what if I used MDF for the housing and Al for only the slider? Perhaps that would reduce the same gunk buildup? Of course, it is easier to make the whole thing out of MDF, I was simply thinking that the thinner Al sliders would make it easier.

Thanks for letting me know.

Originally Posted by ImInterested

So what if I used MDF for the housing and Al for only the slider? Perhaps that would reduce the same gunk buildup? Of course, it is easier to make the whole thing out of MDF, I was simply thinking that the thinner Al sliders would make it easier.

Thanks for letting me know.

Unless its hardish alloy I'd remove Al from any design spec.

MDF with a melamine slider is one of the better arrangements. Some plastics work OK too.

Originally Posted by BobL

I'd remove Al from the design spec completely.

MDF with a melamine slider is one of the better arrangements. Some plastics work OK too.

Consider that done! No Al. Thanks Bob.

All my old manual rocking MDF gates are made from MDF with finish at all and have never given any issues at all. The rocking gate design is basically self cleaning and can't jam anyway and that is why we used it in our automatic series of BG's. I have seen some other blast gate designs by big commercial suppliers that are blind end sliding and they are nothing but trouble in service causing continual problems.

Hi Bob,

You mentioned in one or two posts that you have been making your own bell housings (or flanges)?
I have been meaning to ask how? Are you heating the PVC pipe and expanding it, or possibly pouring your own molds from liquid with hardener, or have you been turning them out of wood and then polishing/painting them so finely that they look like PVC?

Cheers,

Tom

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

All my old manual rocking MDF gates are made from MDF with finish at all and have never given any issues at all. The rocking gate design is basically self cleaning and can't jam anyway and that is why we used it in our automatic series of BG's. I have seen some other blast gate designs by big commercial suppliers that are blind end sliding and they are nothing but trouble in service causing continual problems.

Hi Chris,

Just wondering if there are any issues with mounting the gates on an axis other than horizontal? If mounting vertical, would you place the motor on the underside or topside?
Do they have a temperature range limit for operation. Are they safe working close to a tin roof in QLD in Summer?
I am assuming there are no issues extending the wiring to a 10A GPO that is 4m away?

Cheers,

Tom