Thread: Remote dust collector activation options

Go to to Auto Blast Gates here and fill the form in Auto Blast Gates PTY LTD and we will be in contact with you.

Thanks Chris, I will do that now!

Hi again Chris,
I just read nearly everything on the website.
Exactly what I was looking for!
I’ll fire off an email with schematics to the contact email within the next week or so.
Automation taken care of!

Anyone else got ideas?

Cheers, Tom

you can extend the wiring or...

Buy a cheapish 240v remote relay from ebay and rip out the normal switch. Would need to make sure it cqn handle the currents needed. You also lose the estop function. Not that its really needed on a DC.

I actually used one so i didnt have to run cable and switches from some hanging bed side lamps. Now they get turned on and off by remote

Originally Posted by ImInterested

I intend to have a backbone pipe of 150mm PVC (Anti-static taken care of) running down the outside of the shed on a constant angle down the slope for around 20m until it then goes into the cyclone with a series of shallow angle bends. I figure the larger diameter plus gravity will optimise thru-flow over such a long distance even though the DC inlet is only 125mm.

Gravity counts near naught for these sorts of applications.

Sorry, I know you probably don't want to hear this by nothing done before or after the DC will overcome the bottle neck of ~800 CFM that usually gets through a standard DC 125mm inlet on a standard DC. 150 mm should be a minimum inlet and outlet for a DC to end up with a half decent flow. A cyclone, 20m of ducting, junctions, choked machinery then will only further degrade the flow.

It's therefore a bit of a waste of time trying to optimise everything else if the DC is the bottle neck, I know you don't want to replace the DC but is there anyway you can open it up (inlet and outlet)?

Make sure you read this DRAFT Ducting Recommendations

BTW don't worry about the static it's a non-existent problem, save yourself the headaches and concern yourself with maximising "flow" through teh DC

Originally Posted by havabeer69

Buy a cheapish 240v remote relay from ebay and rip out the normal switch. Would need to make sure it cqn handle the currents needed. You also lose the estop function. Not that its really needed on a DC.

That's the route I took with my DCC-310 - the NVR switch was replaced with a simple on/off switch, and I'm using this remote from Jaycar.

Note that the remote is rated at 10A, the DCC-310 blower is rated at 7.5A and would have a higher start current, so a 25A contactor was wired in.
The Jaycar remote switches the contactor, and the contactor switches the blower.

(As always, get a licensed sparky to handle the 240v wiring.)

Hi Tom,

Quite a few members on the forum have the following remote:
AC 240V Long Distance High Current 30A Relay RF Wireless Remote Control Switch 608119953264 | eBay


I've got these installed on 2x 3HP and 1x 2HP extractors for the past 9-18 months with no problems.


Having done several, the last one I did was by far the best idea. Rather than mount and wire the switch into the extractor as I did with the other two, I housed the switch to go between the power point and extractor. The no-volt switch was then zip tied on. Simpler and more easily reversible if an issue were to develop (like sucking the remote up the extractor hose )

Originally Posted by mpot

That's the route I took with my DCC-310 - the NVR switch was replaced with a simple on/off switch, and I'm using this remote from Jaycar.

Note that the remote is rated at 10A, the DCC-310 blower is rated at 7.5A and would have a higher start current, so a 25A contactor was wired in.
The Jaycar remote switches the contactor, and the contactor switches the blower.

(As always, get a licensed sparky to handle the 240v wiring.)

got the same magical little beast.

Lance it will be interesting to see how you go longer term with that remote especially on the 3HP machines.

It uses an Songle SLA12DC Solid State Relay (SSR) which although is rate at 30A instantaneous , really does means NO more than 30 A. The start up currents for a 2HP DC motor are about 35A and for a 3HP can be 60A. I had the same Songle brand SSR (not remote) on my 3HP DC and it lasted about 4 years before it burnt out.

Notice it does say on the actual relay, rated for 1/2HP for 240V and 1HP for 120V.
To repeatedly start 3HP motors with high start loads at least a about a 60A SSR is needed.

relay.jpg

Originally Posted by BobL

The start up currents for a 2HP DC motor are about 35A and for a 3HP can be 60A. I had the same Songle brand SSR (not remote) on my 3HP DC and it lasted about 4 years before it burnt out.

Good observation Bob. If/when it goes I must try to remember to replace it with something larger. Either that or given how everything retro has become the rage now, I could reduce the start-up current by installing a crank handle on the impeller and get it up to speed manually before powering it up .

Originally Posted by BobL

Lance it will be interesting to see how you go longer term with that remote especially on the 3HP machines.

It uses an Songle SLA12DC Solid State Relay (SSR) which although is rate at 30A instantaneous , really does means NO more than 30 A. The start up currents for a 2HP DC motor are about 35A and for a 3HP can be 60A. I had the same Songle brand SSR (not remote) on my 3HP DC and it lasted about 4 years before it burnt out.

Notice it does say on the actual relay, rated for 1/2HP for 240V and 1HP for 120V.
To repeatedly start 3HP motors with high start loads at least a about a 60A SSR is needed.

Yes, if it were a SSR you would need to consider the start current. But it's not a SSR and turn off arcing is the thing that affects contact life the most with an inductive load, so HP rating should be followed.
BobsRelay.jpg

I'm with Dave, 30A resistive or 1/2 HP inductive load relay.

Thanks for the info gents.

Recently the relay that controls my 3HP TS "DC pressure switch" died after about 3 years of use.
The old relay was a 15A EM type (so called old stock) that I bought a box of 10 on ebay for a whopping $26 (so $2.60 etc) and it lasted for about 3 years.
I just replaced the old relay with another as I have plenty of spares.

The info posted ABOUT contact arcing got me looking at getting a beefier relay and looking on the Farnell website at some "TE Connectivity" 30 and 40A relays, the data sheets list the "contact rating" cycles - see below.
The TE Connectivity brand 30A and 40A relays I looked at had the same contact ratings.

I note the 3HP 240VAC for this really is only rated for 1000 cycles compared to 100,000 cycles at 1HP so it's a wonder the old one lasted as long as it did given the number of switching cycles I put it through.



Relakcontactcycles.jpg

The SSR on the 3HP DC lasted for about 4 years but it would have had much less switching than the TS.
This DC no longer uses a relay as it's controlled by a VFD.

I've been away from the computer for a while but am absolutely astounded at how great you guys are!

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Havabeer,
LanceC,
BobL .... you guys are fantastic. Thank you so very much. I am certainly going to go down this route initially rather than spending big on auto blast gates and progress from there.

I definitely need a Captain America sticker for my enclosure when I build it!!!

Based on comments that 30A would eventually fry out... I have found this little goodie on ebay - Wireless Remote Switch,AC110V-240V 40A Relay,Wireless RF Switch for Househ N4E4 4894829351469 | eBay - which is a 40A switch with two remotes (Which I am quite enthralled with as I can locate one on each of the two upper woodworking levels).
Any of you legends got a thought about using this device instead?

Mpot - Great advice (you are also fantastic!) but I do not understand enough about electrical componentry to know what a 25Amp 'contactor' is although I understand you are using the remote to turn on a 25A power supply to thus feed the required power to the DC on startup and not have that current running through the receiver's under-spec circuit. Googling has shown me contactors that are housed in sub mains etc, but I'm guessing you are talking about something else?
If you could give me a bit more info (Without making yourself liable in any way) so I can understand it in concept, it would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Tom