Thread: Remote start for Dust extractor

Originally Posted by Sawhack

Hi all, MC and HNY.
I recently received my new Sherwood 3HP cyclone dust extractor and plan to set it up in a mezzanine 2.6m above my workshop. This was primarily done to save space, but my theory is that it will actually be less distance travelled to most tools than it would have been if I did the traditional out of dusty-up to ceiling-across to tool-down to tool. This way I am cutting out a vertical run. The inlet is 125mm, but I had planned to step it up to 150mm for as long as possible before stepping down to 100mm closer to the tools. One issue is that the switch on the unit needs me to manually press it on after connecting power (called a no volt switch I think), and I don’t want to be going up and down to turn the DE on.

I have three main questions:
1. Has anyone got any opinion/experience/advice on whether having the unit on a floor above me will adversely affect the performance.
2. Does stepping the 125mm up to 150mm make any sense or is it all limited by the 125mm anyway.
3. Is there a simple way to solve the remote power on solution? Do I need the type of switch to be replaced (by an electrician of course)?

Thanks in advance!

If you have room outside I strongly recommend setting it up outside the shed. All DCs leak (the dust is so fine you cannot see it) and before you know it your shed will be full of fine dust. This also removes the noise,

Regarding stepping up this would not work anywhere near as well as completely replacing the impeller cover to accept a wide open 150mm connect - check out teh sticky thread on how to modify a 2HP DC to better utilise 150 mmm ducting. To maximise air flow you will of course need to open up all machines ports to 150 mm as well. Check out some threads in teh dust forum to show you how to do this.

Remote power on solution.
The easiest way is to tie down the no-volt switch with a cable tie and a piece of wood and switch the DC at the power point, which is presumably more accessible. Just remember to disconnect the power if you decide to inspect the impeller innards during a power failure - if the power comes back on with you hand inside the impeller it can be catastrophic.

3. Arlec remote controller Bunnings.

BobL is right ... again.

I took his advice and opened every machine port, except my planer/thicknesser, to 150m. It made a hell of a difference.

Some details can be found here ... Making 150mm DC ports for workshop machines

Originally Posted by Tonyz

3. Arlec remote controller Bunnings.

They won't cope with the loads imposed by a 3HP motor. I'm aware that 3HP is leass than 2400W, but the inrush current on start and the voltage spike on shutdown will fry the relay contacts in short order.

Originally Posted by jack620

They won't cope with the loads imposed by a 3HP motor. I'm aware that 3HP is leass than 2400W, but the inrush current on start and the voltage spike on shutdown will fry the relay contacts in short order.

While I agree with you there appears to be a number of member who are using these and they seem to be working for longer than I thought they would. Well no one has reported theirs dying.

I've got one somewhere and might test it on a motor till it dies.

Been using the Arlec remote on my 2hp for ages.

Here's a commercial solution.

https://www.timbecon.com.au/msc-pro-...tem-controller

Originally Posted by Flintlock

Been using the Arlec remote on my 2hp for ages.

There's a bit of difference between 2 and 3HP. The sort of start up currents I see (this is usually less than actual start up current) is around 35-40A while on a 3HP its 50-65A

The proper solution is what's called a "contactor" type (which are pretty standard on 3P machines) which is what the Timbecon unit also appears to be using. Contactors have a secondary switching circuit that use only a small current for its operation . Some Single phase machines also use them, my 3HP DC had one till I put a 3P motor and a VFD on it.

Here's my solution. A 32A isolator hanging from a chain above my table saw. It feeds a single socket outlet near the DE. A bit more stuffing about to set up than the Arlec, but it has adequately rated contacts and no remote to lose.

Thanks for the input.
I’ve picked up an Arlec remote now (it cam with two separate units so if I fry one o have a spare, and if I fry both then I’m down $30.

As for opening up the ports I can see how that make the most sense, but that would have to be a future project because I’m desperate to get the ducting set up so I can finally start doing some woodworking.

Regarding positioning of the DE, I don’t really have suitable space outside unless I build an external shelter for it and punch a hole through the double brickwork (neither of which I am keen to do), so it will live inside for now. I looked at the sticky which suggested an option of building an internal enclosure so I’ll probably do that. I might also have to fork out some more $$ and get an air filter too.

Any thoughts on having the unit On the floor above. It will be physically closer to the tools, but obviously fighting gravity.

In reading the fine print of the unit I bought, it actually describes itself as HPLV rather than the more common HVLP. Does this change any of the advice given so for?

Sorry for the rambling, and thanks again.

Another option is venting through the roof.

Originally Posted by Sawhack

Thanks for the input.
I’ve picked up an Arlec remote now (it cam with two separate units so if I fry one o have a spare, and if I fry both then I’m down $30.
As for opening up the ports I can see how that make the most sense, but that would have to be a future project because I’m desperate to get the ducting set up so I can finally start doing some woodworking.

That's what most people do but if you have to instal ducting you might as well instal 6" while you are at it.

Any thoughts on having the unit On the floor above. It will be physically closer to the tools, but obviously fighting gravity.

It sounds like the distances and heights involved won't make much difference.

In reading the fine print of the unit I bought, it actually describes itself as HPLV rather than the more common HVLP. Does this change any of the advice given so for?

Its could also be a mistake - post s picture or link of the unit and we'll confirm.

Yep, running 6 inch PVC as we speak, but having to step down to 4 inch PVC with flex hose as close as I can to the tools.

I’m having trouble posting pictures, but this is the link to the unit:

https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...dust-extractor

In that it says:
“ At 750CFM (cubic feet per minute) the 2200W (3HP) motor provides exceptional suction whilst being able to be run on a standard 10A house plug. This unit has more than enough power to handle 2 machines at once through its two 100mm intakes or 125mm single intake. Unlike single stage dust extractors, these are high static pressure/low volume. This means though the CFM is lower than a single stage machine, this unit provides more than enough dust collection to handle multiple machines simultaneously.”

Originally Posted by Sawhack

Yep, running 6 inch PVC as we speak, but having to step down to 4 inch PVC with flex hose as close as I can to the tools.

I’m having trouble posting pictures, but this is the link to the unit:

https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...dust-extractor

In that it says:
“ At 750CFM (cubic feet per minute) the 2200W (3HP) motor provides exceptional suction whilst being able to be run on a standard 10A house plug. This unit has more than enough power to handle 2 machines at once through its two 100mm intakes or 125mm single intake. Unlike single stage dust extractors, these are high static pressure/low volume. This means though the CFM is lower than a single stage machine, this unit provides more than enough dust collection to handle multiple machines simultaneously.”

Couple of comments,

Motors do not provide suction - impellers provide suction.

That's a HVLP impeller and despite any manufacturers claims it pulls about 8" of water column at 50 Hz.
Without any cyclone or filters or ducting it will nominally deliver about 1200 CFM through a 6" pipe about 425CFM through a 4" pipe. As soon as the cyclone, filters and machines are added the 6" ducting flows will approximately halve and the 4" flows will drop to about three quarters.
A high-pressure low volume DC will pull 100" of water column and about 100 CFM

Even the claimed 750 CFM is not sufficient for some single large machines let alone multiple machines.

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