Thread: "Remote" switch for dust extractor?

Originally Posted by mpot

I have one of those triggering a 25A contactor that switches the DC.

Using it this way, triggering a suitable amp contactor, is a much better way to do it. Zip tying a safety switch and switching a 2hp motor via a remote triggering a 10amp GPO is an insurance investigator's ticket to denying any claim in the event of an accident / fire etc.

I got a chance to go to the wholesalers today, made my purchases and started to investigate. But is this what you had BMKal?

I have two wires for the power cord (plus earth) and four (two wrapped together) to the left. Is 4 core still suitable? How do I extend the switch wires but leave the power ones at the motor?

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The ideal set up is when you turn on the thing-saw. thicknesser whatever and turns on then. Ask a sparky -handy though.

No worries regarding the warning .

Not something that I can easily explain on here - but yes - that is the same switch that I had. Basically, I used the 4 core cable to go between the 4 pins on the back of the switch and the same wires inside the junction box that are currently connected to those pins. If you have a fifth pin on your switch as yours appears to do in the photo, then this is simply a power supply to "hold in" the coil in the NVR switch. It will be bridged to the output side of the switch so that it only receives current when the switch is in the "on" position.

As others have said, if you are not sure, I strongly advise to get an electrician to look at it for you. It is a very simple job, but not something that you can afford to get wrong. I'm lucky in that I have been working with electricians for years in my role in the mining game and am very familiar with this type of wiring / switchgear, and know how to check out the wiring connections etc for correct polarity and safety.

My approach has always been to copy what was done exactly, ask questions and take photos. Usually works. Bridging wire makes sense and I was hoping I hadn't blown $11 on 4 core (I bought 3M of 2.5mm) . Thanks again.

Originally Posted by BMKal

Not something that I can easily explain on here - but yes - that is the same switch that I had. Basically, I used the 4 core cable to go between the 4 pins on the back of the switch and the same wires inside the junction box that are currently connected to those pins. If you have a fifth pin on your switch as yours appears to do in the photo, then this is simply a power supply to "hold in" the coil in the NVR switch. It will be bridged to the output side of the switch so that it only receives current when the switch is in the "on" position.

As others have said, if you are not sure, I strongly advise to get an electrician to look at it for you. It is a very simple job, but not something that you can afford to get wrong. I'm lucky in that I have been working with electricians for years in my role in the mining game and am very familiar with this type of wiring / switchgear, and know how to check out the wiring connections etc for correct polarity and safety.

I found this:

Dust extractor switch conversion remote control Dave Stanton easy woodworking - YouTube

Carbatec sell the toggle switch and mounting plate for our Dust Collectors.

Carbatec Toggle Switch - Short Lever Style | CarbatecCarbatec Replacement Switch Plate - suits SWT-J9301A Switch (56x88mm plate size) | Carbatec

Hi all. An update for those who might still be interested. After talking to various people's and eventually talking to my electrician, I have successfully moved the switch and can operate the dust extractor "remotely." My solution was to add male or female spade connectors to the "extension" cord and finish as per the photos below. Some parts are from the wholesalers and the blue perspex plate is from my stock. All done, well except for the collection point for the lathe......

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