Thread: "Remote" switch for dust extractor?

You need a heavy duty switch. The switch in a powerboard isn't rated for switching large motors.
I have a 20A isolation switch dangling from cable above my table saw.

2 Pole 20A Isolator Switch | QF2-20

The McGiver solution is to hardwire or zip tie the "on switch" on the DC into the on position. Then use a heavy current switch as recommended by Jack620.. Bear in mind this is not OHS kosher because if the power fails that switch will stay in the on position (well the blurb doesn't say otherwise) . The safest way is to move the existing no-volt switch to the remote position and locate it into a suitable housing.

What do you mean when you say switched power board doesn't work?

Dust collector (DC) doesn't come back on when switched on?
It will have a no volt release (nvr) safety switch. The switch on the DC releases when power is cut. This is to stop unexpected restarting when power is restored. E.g. jammed impeller causes power to trip. You are freeing the impeller with your hands deep in the business end, when some bright spark goes and resets the power. The NVR means the DC won't turn on when power restored.

I used a mini quick clamp to hold in the on switch on the DC. This negates the NVR.

Then I have a contactor that switches the power supply to the DC, switched by a cheap RF remote relay.

If you want remote switching, be aware you are switching an inductive load. Inductive loads need bigger switching hardware.
E.g. those powerpoint wifi switches rated for 10amp are not suitable for switching a motor anywhere near 10amp. They can switch a bar heater (resistive load). They will fail well before rated life if switching a motor.

Contactors come in different ratings
AC3 or AC7 are the relevant numbers for motors.

Below was my answer to this some time ago. At the time it was regarded as unsafe by some but it continues to work just fine nearly 20 years later. Just don't work on anything without unpluging it first (if you need to be told that!)

Place a carefully crafted block of wood on top of the ON switch.


Close the switch cover to hold the switch permanently on.


Plug in to a power outlet switched from above the lathe.

I re-located the switch from the side of the motor to a more convenient position when I recently mounted my dust extractor high up on the wall of my shed. You will need a length of 4 core cable of a suitable thickness. Remove the switch, fabricate a cover to go on the box the switch was mounted to, run the cable through a hole in this cover and a gromet, and into the back of a plastic electrical box you can buy at any electrician's store, mount this box where you want it and re-mount the switch into this new plastic box. It is not difficult - even I found it easy. Switch is mounted on the side of the white shelving unit above the cyclone in the photo below.

IMG_3424.jpg

Originally Posted by BMKal

I re-located the switch from the side of the motor to a more convenient position when I recently mounted my dust extractor high up on the wall of my shed.

Neat setup. How do you find the Onieda DD? Is that the 5" model?

Thanks guys. This is why I love this forum. I will have a go at moving the switch. BMKal, what is 4 core cable?

I asked this question a few years back and with zero electrical experience, I couldn't make sense of general instructions and terminology

I use a remote switch that the guys at ABG made up for me - Pricing
"Remote control module GENERAL PURPOSE - 10 Amp"
It was expensive at around $100, however I've been using it for a few years now and no issues. The box plugs into a normal wall outlet and the DC plugs into the box, with the green motor switch clamped into an 'on' position.
I put the remote in my pocket and it's simple to turn it on for every cut and turn it off when I'm settled after cutting. Not particularly worried about safety as I don't stick my hand into the impeller housing, but when emptying bags etc, the box has a power switch so I just turn that off.

For convenience, I am really happy with the $100.

Originally Posted by jack620

Neat setup. How do you find the Onieda DD? Is that the 5" model?

Yes - it is the 5 inch model. So far I have found it to be very good. I have "bogged" it once when I had the suction hose connected to my thicknesser and was running some pine planks through it to quickly reduce the thickness, but other than this it is doing a good job. I like the fact that both hoses can easily be "unplugged" from the cyclone without having to undo any clamps etc. This makes it easy for me to wheel out the cyclone and 44 gallon drum so that I can quickly change the drum when one is full - it also gives me quick and easy access into the top of the cyclone to clear blockages etc.

Originally Posted by Mountain Ash

Thanks guys. This is why I love this forum. I will have a go at moving the switch. BMKal, what is 4 core cable?

Normal extension cords are 3 core cable (active, neutral and earth). To re-locate this switch, you will need 4 core cable which you can buy from any decent electrical supplier (Bunnings doesn't carry it).
You can also buy a plastic waterproof box with gland seal for mounting the switch on from the same electrical supplier.

The cable I used is 1.5mm 4 core white 240 volt mains electrical flex as below.

Screenshot 2023-08-07 at 8.17.43 am.png

Thanks BMKal. I have plenty of red, black and earth available but I will go to the wholesalers and grab some 4 core.

Thanks too FG. I think a true remote is more than I need but that does sound very handy.

Sent from my SM-G986B using Tapatalk

I may be on the wrong foot or the red soft drink is hitting home but I used the following on my old 2hp dusty.



the plug went into a normal power socket and the 2hp dusty plugged into it. the remote was basiclly the power off/on

Originally Posted by Tonyz

I may be on the wrong foot or the red soft drink is hitting home but I used the following on my old 2hp dusty.



the plug went into a normal power socket and the 2hp dusty plugged into it. the remote was basiclly the power off/on

I use these for my two smaller shed fans, air compressor and small Sherwood dust vac. Won't work on the larger dust extractor though as it has a magnetic on/off switch where you have to physically push the "start" button every time after the power has been interrupted. You can bridge this feature in the switch if you know what you are doing so that it will start when power supply is applied, but it is not advisable practice.

go back to picko s pics I have that switch on my dusty, a ziptie has forced the green button to stay on, the Arlec controls the power, Has worked for over 6 years. Yes I installed Auto Blast Gate on the bigger machines but the Arlec worked fine on the 2 floor vacuums and sucking the burnt wood smell from the Laser cutter/engraver.
I