Thread: SCMS extraction.

It has been my observation that user error can play a big part in how much dust is captured with this style of saw. If the saw is fully extended to start the cut from the edge nearest the operator the wood being cut prevents dust from being ejected to the back of the saw, starting from the edge adjacent to the fence and pulling the saw towards the operater works better because some of the dust is ejected through the kerf. Try this, using a 75mm thick piece of timber the maximum width the saw can cut do the cut both ways and see what the result is.

My shroud works fairly well, if the DE is not on I can smell the wood being cut and if it is working there is no smell, not a definitive result but it has worked for many years and the workshop has no visible layer of dust through it or most importantly on the ducting which is a sure sign of loose dust in the air. Standing at my saw I can feel the breeze going past me to the back of the shroud which can only be a plus. There are portable shrouds available as well BTW aimed at building contractors etc. On my Glide I do not use the shroud extraction at all and never have but that is the advantage of having it permanently installed on a bench.

Still fiddling about with glide saw extraction.

After seeing the 3D printed ramp on Youtube being used to deflect the sawdust up to the rubber scoop I put an order in with my son who has a couple of 3D printers but he's away for a while so I decided to play around with some PvC DWV bits and pieces.

Here's one I came up with.
PVCramp.jpg

The PVC bench is a 40mm Male-Female 90º bend cut in half as shown and held in place by a segment of PVC pipe.
The underside of the pipe segment has a hole drilled into it and a 10 x 2mm REE friction fits into the hole.
Scoopmag.jpg

Underneath the saw table there is a larger REE (just currently jammed in place but I will silicone it in place if I decided to go this way) that generates just enough attraction to hold the pipe segment in place.

I haven done any measurements yet as I want to set up wearable dust detector and use that as the measuring system.

One advantage of this arrangement is that unlike the static 3D printed versions this ramp can be rotated for compound cuts.
Using the current pipe segment limits the ramp tilt to 15º but I think if I make the pipe segment a bit larger I should be able to reach 30º and maybe even 45º
I'm also thinking of turning up an Al pipe segment that will make it stiffer and be better able to hold the ramp.

Scooptilt.jpg

Why not attach the pvc bend to the existing scoop instead of the table? That way it will move with the blade when you bevel or angle cut.

Originally Posted by Flintlock

Why not attach the pvc bend to the existing scoop instead of the table? That way it will move with the blade when you bevel or angle cut.

Yeah thought of that BUT because the existing scoop only just clears large workpieces during an "in-out" move so would be prevent this.

Spent this morning tackling the dreaded bougainvillea that covers 1/4 of the shed. PPE included long leather welding gloves, Armadillo face shield, steel caps and boiler maker overalls.

I usually give the bougainvillea an annual trim but this time it needed a decent crew cut so took everything off above the roof line which was a tangle of branches about 2m high and 4m in diameter. Last time it was pruned this hard was 9 years ago. I started nibbling at it with a parrot beak pruner and secateurs but finally got out the reciprocating saw and cut through a half dozen 50-75 mm thick branches and then tipped the lot off the roof. Yes there was a ladder involved. Then endless trips dragging branches out to the verge for council pickup, ended doing my bung knee in and after that I needed a rest .

After that more mucking around with dust control on the Glide saw. I saw on a youtube clip that someone added a small rectangular piece of sheet rubber to the front top of the rubber scoop where some sawdust seems to so escape. Their piece of rubber is held on by double sided tape and angles down towards the blade. I thought I'd try something similar but make it easier to install/remove by cutting out a rubber annulus/skirt that goes around the whole top of the scoop but it is longer at the front so it bridges the gap between the top of the regular scoop and the blade guard.

ON the left is the regular scoop and on the right is the skirt cut out of piece of inner tube.
This is version one, version two which is a tighter fit has a smaller hole and a longer section at the bottom half
SScutout.jpg

Here's it's on the saw.
The stretching action of fitting it over the scoop naturally curves the front part of the skirt like the front of a baseball cap - see red arrow.
SSonfront.jpg

Here it is with showing how it bridges the gaps between the scoop and the blade guard.
SSon.jpg

Have only done a preliminary test and so far it's looking pretty good.

I completed the brackets that can support multiple BMHs beyond the saw.

Heres a square cut with two 4" BMHs one on either side.

2x4%22DC.jpg

2x4%22DCside.jpg

And here's a 60º mitre cut setup.
4%22mitre.jpg

I'm not satisfied with the location of some components of the brackets sop will replace those eventually.

Bob, have youu done some cuts of thick timber the maximum width the saw can handle?

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Bob, have youu done some cuts of thick timber the maximum width the saw can handle?

Today my mate and I used the saw for about 40, 250 x 35 mm cuts of Lebanese Cedar and Silky Oak.
We used using the shop vac on the saws dust port, and one 4" BMH connected to the DC and the shed ventilator top help with fine dust.
There was was a fair bit of chip scatter on and around the bench the saw was on, but the highest shed PM10 recorded while doing this was 16 ug/m^3 which I am very pleased about because we also ripped and thicknessed about 6m of the same boards prior to docking them to length with the Glide saw.

BTW I was expecting much more aroma from the cedar but the ventilation was clearly whisking it away very quickly.

I finally finished all the bits and pieces for the 2 articulated arms that hold the BMHs in place for the glide saw.

All the rod is 12 mm steel. I might "blue" the rods and other steel parts, or if I can find some cheap stainless rod, replace it with stainless.

R is a rail/rod that runs all the way along the back of the saw.
Rail clamps (RC, one on either aide of the saw) supports articulated arms that supports the BMHs in almost any orientation.
SPC is Spare Rail Clamp that allows for 2 BMHs to be easily mounted on one side of the saw.

This pic shows one of the 2 arms.
FInal2.jpg

12, M6 knurled knobs and 9 steel clamp discs 18 x 35mm took a while to turn up on the lathe.

Most of the time for just a few cuts I can see myself just using one BMH and the saws dust extraction port.

Here's the saw (almost) in it tucked away position under the LHS wing of the TS.

It's about 1 mm too high to pass under the LHS front fence rail when the saw is in the lock down position but there is enough downward play so the motor can be pushed down for it to steal under the rail.

Tuckedaway.jpg

It doesn't look like it but it's well out of the way.
What is still in an "ankle cracking" way is the hydraulic pedal.
I need to shorten the chrome handle so it clears under the front fence rail.
Then the whole shebang can be pushed another 300 mm further back under the rail which should take the pedal right out of the way.

Last year I played around with dust extraction for my Bosch glidesaw.

Someone mentioned a 3D printed dust scoop and I attempted to emulate this with the following PC junction hack.
The scoop helped but it wasn't really wide enough to grab most of the chips.


Recently I bought a 3D printer and decided to print the 3D printed plastic scoop and try it out on the saw.
Scoop2.JPG
Scoop1.JPG

So far I've tried it out while cutting some Al and it seems to be more efficient than the PVC hack, especially on mitre cuts.

so almost another year on Bob, how do you find this?

I only ask as I now have the same saw and looking to set it up in a permanent mitresaw bench and wondering which way I should go with the dust extraction, something similar to yours, or the custom shroud/box people make with 2x 4" hoses on it.

this guy gives a template on making a new shroud for both the 10 and 12" bosch glide models, how ever I would need to upgrade my poor tired shop vac as I can only assume choking my dust extractor down to 2" isn't going to end well.



I think it was linked in another thread (and by the looks of your 3D printed ramp you've seen it) was this video about the dust angle etc. where he mentions the flap/extension of the boot in the video above

Havabeer, first question, what dust extractor are you going to use since this will decide the way to go.

I have the 305mm Bosch but with the rails behind. I now thanks to Bob, Chris and others run 150mm ducting with flexible hose just located to the right hand side. I also use the vacuum to the standard port with no modifications, through. Home made separator. My dust extractor is a 3hp with a 12" impeller with a cyclone, located in a shed next to my main shed. Dust extraction is very good. However even with the larger motor dust extraction is diminished at the scms if I accidentally have two blast gates open. SCMS are in my experience difficult to get really good results but a bit of trial and error It can be overcome to a large extent.