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23rd May 2018, 11:59 PM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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23rd May 2018 11:59 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th May 2018, 12:21 AM #17.
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Protective chainsaw pants/trousers/chaps are designed with an inner and outer layer of a material like ripstop/ballistic nylon in between which are long woolly of kevlar fibre. When the chain comes into contact with the outer layer it cuts through the nylon and pulls great handfuls of the kevlar fibres out and this jams the saw in a split second usually before the chain manages to cut through the inner ayer of nylon. Now the sort of trousers that work very effectively on a 90 cc (7HP) chainsaw won't work on 3HP electric. The electric has much more torque at low revs than a combustion engine but the electric will keep on going and cut right though these trousers.
If the impeller is jammed then of course there's no problem because the breaker will cut out pretty quickly. But it only needs to be turning a little bit where it might pull 50-60-80A of starting current which is an awful lot of oomph to try and stop with soft skin. Thing is it all happens so quickly you don't have time to react. Like I said a 12" impeller has a lot of angular momentum and it takes a lot to stop it. Just turn your DC off and wait till it spins down enough to where you can just see the individual blades moving (~ 2 rpm), it won't even look like its moving that fast, and then try to stop it by hand - NO please don't do it. How do I know - you should be able to work that out.
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24th May 2018, 08:00 PM #18New Member
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Just a quick add on. If you are switching dc you should not use an ac switch as the flash over with dc is much higher and it will have a much shorter life. Use a dc contactor with a 12vdc coil on the unit and then you can switch that remotely. The 12v switch for the contactor coil can be where ever you are working and powered by a 240vac/12dc transformer plugged in some where handy.
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24th May 2018, 09:15 PM #19Woodworking mechanic
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DC as in Dust Collector not DC as in Direct Current
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24th May 2018, 10:37 PM #20GOLD MEMBER
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I set my unit up by removing the switch and placing it in an enclosure for switches and where the switch was fitted a couple of 15 amp inline fuses used to connect the wires. A plastic plate was fitted in place of the switch, to prevent entry of unwanted fingers.
The original switch was then mounted next to my lathe, which is central in the shed, a short extension cord was wired to one side of the switch, then another was run to the dusty and terminated at a 3 pin socket as used for lights.
The original cord was then plugged into it.
Can get a couple of pics tomorrow if needed.
Had a sparky look at it and he OK'd it.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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24th May 2018, 11:51 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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25th May 2018, 12:26 AM #22DISCLAIMER
No liability is accepted by UBeaut or the Wood Working Forum's administrators
or moderators for advice offered by members posting replies
or asking questions regarding electrical work.
We strongly advise contacting a Licensed Tradeperson for all electrical work.WARNING
Information supplied within posts is not to be considered as detailed formal instructions to complete a task.
Members following such information do so at their own risk
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25th May 2018, 10:49 PM #23New Member
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Well I'm a silly bunt. DC. Anyway back to the original problem, bypass the switch on the dc, use a 2 pole contactor with a 12vdc coil instead. Have a separate 12v supply. Wire it to a switch mounted on a small box with a 2 core cable back to the contactor and switch the dc from where ever you are working. A contactor is not that expensive and you can chose the coil voltage to suit. It doesn't need to be the same voltage as the unit that it is switching and then you only have a low voltage cable lying around the workshop floor.😁
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3rd June 2018, 07:50 PM #24Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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6th February 2022, 07:17 AM #25SENIOR MEMBER
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6th February 2022, 09:56 AM #26.
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8th February 2022, 04:04 PM #27SENIOR MEMBER
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OK I think I got my wires crossed somehow, both the below are rated to 2400w:
https://www.arlec.com.au/wp-content/files/RC10.pdf
kogan.com
Let me restate my question. I have a Protool Shop Vac. The 'Power Tool Activation' is rated to 1200w. I know the Makita 42L L-Class is rated to 1100w. Machines like larger routers and compound mitre saws are 1600w - 2000w. So I assume plugging these sort of machines into these vacs is a no go.
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8th February 2022, 04:27 PM #28.
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They will work for a while.
“while” could be a few years or a few months.
It depends on a few things like start up loads, actual load, and number of times the switch is used.
some folks get away with it others don’t.
Just because a machine says its eg 2000W doesn’t mean that much as is just a nominal max output but if the machine is pushed HARD it can draw a lot more power than this. Most machines, circuits, and breakers can tolerate brief overloads but remote switch like those are far less tolerant.
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8th February 2022, 05:52 PM #29SENIOR MEMBER
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