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  1. #16
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    Aug 2007
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    Saskatoon, SK, Canada.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitingmidge View Post
    Very true Pete,

    I wear a Trend Air Stealth respirator/mask whenever there is the possibility of dust in the air ie whenever I am working (including hand sanding) until the fans are off. This is a nice summary of how I feel! ;-)
    Although the focus of this forum is dust I was referring to fleshy bits getting sliced and diced. Maybe I misunderstood but I thought you were advocating not having the blade guarded at times because you couldn't see where the blade was cutting. You also like, opposite of me, Grippers. They put the hand too close to the blade and if caught in the blade can kickback so fast they flip as they go back taking the hand into the blade. If I'm wrong I apologize and sit corrected.

    Pete

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
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    8,175

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    Quote Originally Posted by QC Inspector View Post
    Although the focus of this forum is dust I was referring to fleshy bits getting sliced and diced. Maybe I misunderstood but I thought you were advocating not having the blade guarded at times because you couldn't see where the blade was cutting. You also like, opposite of me, Grippers. They put the hand too close to the blade and if caught in the blade can kickback so fast they flip as they go back taking the hand into the blade. If I'm wrong I apologize and sit corrected.
    Thanks Pete. and no need for an apology at all, I hope you don't mind my response!

    There are many times (most times) when I can't use a blade guard, or at least the guard that came with the saw, like all the hypocrites on YouTube who remove their guards "for demonstration purposes only", I do not advocate that, am slightly terrified by it (which is why I am trying to build one that works) but have not found a solution apart from Grrippers which suit my purposes 100% of the time.

    For instance, when ripping more than about 45mm depth, the anti kickback pawls on the standard guard can jam, (and in any case I prefer to make deeper cuts in two passes). It can't be used at all when ripping anything narrower than half the width of the guard, and since more than half of my cuts are on a sled, it can't be used at all in that context either.

    I have been using Grrippers since they were invented - more than twenty years(?) and while I know they have a lot of detractors, I am yet to find a situation where they could get caught in the blade - naively perhaps, I figure that in a litigious environment like the US if a product can survive in the market place for as long as it has it must have a pretty fair safety record. Used correctly I can't see how they could be in a position to get caught in the blade. I have accidentally cut into them a couple of times without incident, but I am wary enough not to try to correct that mistake while the blade is cutting!

    On the other hand, the closest I have come to having a serious injury was with a traditional push stick, which after following through a cut I stupidly dropped slightly and the leading edge was caught in the blade - that hurt a lot although I didn't break anything and the ceiling repair didn't take very long.

    The nice thing about Grrippers and the like is that when properly set up I can control BOTH sides of the cut, right through the cut.

    Having said that, a cabinet maker friend (my late brother in law) has drummed in to me not to watch the blade, set up the saw, make a dry run with the blade down to make sure everything is clear and set up correctly, then concentrate on keeping the workpiece against the fence.

    If that advice is wrong even though it's off topic, it would be a good time to correct it!

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
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    8,175

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    Quote Originally Posted by Aussiephil View Post
    One thought back to the true purpose of dust collection is that you should look at independent pivoting sides that can pivot down to be flush with the table when you taking a shaving off....
    It won't be flush with the table, because of the curve on the bottom of the sides, but the whole unit will pivot to assist with exactly that problem. It should also work with the blade tilted at any angle.

    I might have enough assembled tomorrow to demonstrate.

    Cheers,

    P

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,756

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    I have had the blade attack 2 TS guards - the first was an acrylic guard that basically just disintegrated. Surprisingly the bits did not fly as far as I expected and most just fell down on top of the table.
    Sorry no photos of that one.

    The second was when the back of this PC guard fell onto the turning blade.
    Bristle Guard edges for dust collector hoods and guards-img_3535-jpg
    No shattering, the blade just cut a neat ~25mm long slot in the PC on the back of the guard.

    Large heavy guards can get in the way at times but otherwise they are very good at keeping hands away from blades.
    Many years ago I used to operate under the philosophy of "use safety devices that suit my way of working"
    Over time I've switched to "use ways of working that work in harmony with safety devices"

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Australia and France
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    The second was when the back of this PC guard fell onto the turning blade.
    I have a couple of questions there Bob, that are pertinent to my articulated arm!

    1) How was the blade positioned so that it fell into the blade? From the photo if the support was to fail it would miss the blade?

    2) Is the string a safety lanyard to prevent that happening again? I have done the calcs on how that could work, but would triangulate it to also limit the amount of distance it can travel (that's stage 2 by the way, stage 1 is build it.)

    Thanks,

    P

  7. #21
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    This is my set of grippers.
    It's only used on small pieces eg 50 x 50mm
    It used with small pieces but without the OH guard otherwise the suction is likely to suck the work piece away.
    I've only used it about a dozen times in 15 years but am glad to still have it for those rare times..
    The guard is swung to one side so it still sucks some fine dust - just not fast enough to suck up the piece of wood.
    Are you can see, hand is well away from the blade.

    last.jpg

    boot1.jpg

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    lower eyre peninsular
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    74
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    3,577

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    Hells bells thats not a tool. that is a piece of art. STUNNING
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitingmidge View Post
    I have a couple of questions there Bob, that are pertinent to my articulated arm!

    1) How was the blade positioned so that it fell into the blade? From the photo if the support was to fail it would miss the blade?

    2) Is the string a safety lanyard to prevent that happening again? I have done the calcs on how that could work, but would triangulate it to also limit the amount of distance it can travel (that's stage 2 by the way, stage 1 is build it.)
    The string is a SS multi strand cable.

    The whole counterweight system was made to balance the weight of the arms and the guard but the 2 arm pivots are also partially tightened to steady the whole arm. What happened was the pivot up near the ceiling came loose (just moving the arms up and down multiple times can loosen it) and there was was insufficient counterweight support so the whole arm rotated pushing the back of the guard onto the back of the blade. This happened twice before I got around this by adjusting the counterweight with the pivots in the loose position. So it was more of a back to front movement of the guard rather than drop movement.

  10. #24
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonyz View Post
    Hells bells thats not a tool. that is a piece of art. STUNNING
    It was made from a small (120mm diam) log of Rasperry Jam timber. Cut it and in smells of raspberries.

    Here are some more pics.
    The metalwork is all brass which won't bother the saw blade if it invariable makes contact
    The feet are velcro strips of garnet paper.

    bootparts.jpg boot2.jpg bootfeet.jpg boothandle1.jpg Bootsaw1.jpg

    This was the first time I saw "chatoyance" (3d flame in the grain) in a piece of wood that I milled myself.

  11. #25
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    Nov 2003
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    Australia and France
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    Just to keep this thread alive -

    I have all the bits in place but not the time to finish off the articulated arm (until early next week).

    Here are the latest upgrades:

    21-03- 25 at 15-30-14.jpg

    Adapter for 90mm PVC to 100mm(nominal) el-cheapo blast gate. The adapter is a push-fit onto the PVC (with a single wrap of pfte plumbers tape) and matches the taper of the plastic blast gate so it's also a stiff push-fit. On the other side I have a blast gate to 100PVC adapter. Previously this was cobbled together with foam tape and duct tape, which worked well enough, but really didn't look as though anyone cared!

    21-03- 25 at 15-30-23.jpg
    Adapter for 80mm nominal spiral flex to 90mm PVC. Again a push fit onto the PVC, the spiral is a tight fit into a thread with a bit of talc necessary to help it on it's way - the spiral fits almost neatly inside the PVC and continues for a few inches beyond the fitting.

    21-03- 25 at 15-30-52.jpg
    Magnetic dust ports on the guard. These are similar to my 100mm ports but have only 10 magnets instead of 12. The duct will be used on the router fence as well, so the ability to change very simply will be welcoome.

    A ball joint for the arm is just visible - hopefully more on that later next week.

    Cheers,

    P

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