Thread: Table saw dust extraction - practical.

go back to the wall.
My carbatec the working side is to the left of the blade. The fence cannot go any further, Im my previous shed and what I am moving into I have a bench along the wall 600mmdeep the fence side of the saw butts up to the bench, I then ran/will run ducting from the cabinet up through the bench meet a Y that goes to the overhead blade guard.
The combined pipe continues to auto blast gate.
From the cabinet I run 2 x 100mm bell mouths paralell to a Y then they head up the wall where it meets the overhead Y then opens up to 150mm pipe

Hope tha makes sense.

Originally Posted by Tonyz

.......I have a bench along the wall 600mmdeep the fence side of the saw butts up to the bench.........

If I understand you correctly, your saw is effectively joined to the wall by the bench so you can run ducting through the bench to the saw. That's a neat solution, but my saw isn't really suited to that - it's a "panel saw" with extended rails for the fence. It really needs 4 feet+ free on all sides of the blade for working with larger sheet material.

The layouts that I am looking at all have the saw as an "island" with no connection to any walls. That suits the saw, and with movable outfeed tables it suits the space, but leaves the issue of dust connection!

I suspect the answer is indeed a connection that is fitted only whilst the saw is in use!

You could still run a duct from the wall to the saw. Use the space between as another work surface, router table or a downdraft sanding table if you have a big enough duct and collector. Yes you couldn't walk completely around the saw but it wouldn't be that long a walk. A second duct overhead for the crown guard to capture the dust from above the table takes care of that dust.

You have the option of cutting up the floor and putting the duct under. A lot more involved in that kind of installation. I suggest if going that route you create a trough for the duct and any new electrical or compressed air and use steel plates on top for access rather than cementing it over again.

Pete

I think I'm going to try having the saw set up in a similar manner to that suggested by Tonyz, with the fence rails towards the wall. I can then run the ducting along the floor underneath the fence and then along the wall. Hopefully there'll be enough room that I'll still have plenty of space on all four sides of the blade without having a true "island" setup. If I don't build it in, I can still move it out from the wall on the odd occasion that I need to (should that ever happen again!).

Thanks!