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23rd December 2020, 07:44 PM #16.
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23rd December 2020 07:44 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd December 2020, 09:00 PM #17
Thanks Bohdan, I'd not considered that - after all it's served for 25 years as a vacuum!
HOWEVER - that time has been spent with a fabric primary filter between the bucket and the lid. Now that you've drawn it to my attention, it wouldn't hurt to replace the seal AND, I've just got the ply down on the old compressed seal with no attention paid!
I'll replace the seals and check everything after the weekend!
Cheers,
P
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23rd December 2020, 09:04 PM #18
I've already got the trolley from the Jet unit, it would be seriously easy to build a second storey on it, but seriously difficult to get it under my bench then!
It is my plan of second-last resort though, after that will be give it all away to someone with more patience!
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23rd December 2020, 09:12 PM #19Woodworking mechanic
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- Jan 2014
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- Sydney Upper North Shore
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My SuperVac vents to outside BobL so if the filter is leaking, which I doubt, the exhaust is outside. All my vacs get a check over and any seals and filters replaced, if necessary, yearly - just a routine I’ve got into.
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24th December 2020, 08:28 AM #20GOLD MEMBER
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How thick is that ply/timber panel you've got the cyclone attached to? If you get a thin metal panel to attach it to and ditch the current one I'll bet all your problems will be solved.
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24th December 2020, 12:52 PM #21.
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24th December 2020, 01:52 PM #22
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24th December 2020, 04:41 PM #23
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24th December 2020, 05:05 PM #24Woodworking mechanic
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I reckon Armor All would probably do the trick.
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24th December 2020, 05:11 PM #25.
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For harder/shiny rubber/plastic seals something like Armor-all usually works. I know some people think is rubbish but I have used it on our old house vac for 15 years and it has not damaged the seals.
For softer synthetic fridge seal rubber type seals a thin smear of vaseline works - this is what I use on my Ryobi W&D.
However, Vaseline should not be used on natural rubbers or neoprene seals.
If you are unsure a silicone spray will cover all bases BUT knowing what a no-no silicone is around a wood workshop and if you have a few things to protect then something like 303 Protector will cover all bases. You could of course apply the spray to a rag outside your shed - wipe the seals down and chuck the rag out and you should be OK.
If you want to use top of the Wazza try this.
https://www.repco.com.au/en/car-care...CABEgIgR_D_BwE
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24th December 2020, 06:31 PM #26
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24th December 2020, 08:22 PM #27GOLD MEMBER
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24th December 2020, 08:33 PM #28
I had a recent tip from someone I know who worked for a lloonngg time in a car wash.... for door seals and windscreen wipers, use fresh car oil.
Apparently it has some seal rejuvenate magic in it. Makes everything looks shiny and fresh after its soaked in for a bit.
Doubly apparently (!!!) it works magic on the wipers to eliminate the s-c-r-e-e-e-e and judders....
Intriguing.
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28th December 2020, 11:18 AM #29
Well I'm back, and having taped every joint including the lid with duct tape to make sure that there were no leaks, there was negligible difference in the performance, so I can say with some certainty, that it's not a leak.
20-12- 28 at 10-06-07.jpg
So now it's over to your suggestion @aldav! Presumably the angle on the bottom of the funnel is not accidental, and as the photo shows, the ply does hang below it by a few millimetres. The next step is to take the lazy way out and chamfer the cutout to give plenty of clearance around the fitting.
If that doesn't work, in the absence of a suitable piece of metal and the tools and skill to cut it, I'll try a bit of 3mm MDF.
Cheers,
P
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28th December 2020, 04:58 PM #30GOLD MEMBER
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- Albury
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Correct. And get rid of that nib of plastic on the edge of the outlet as well. The tube that you've extended into the cyclone inlet shouldn't have any deleterious impact on performance so you might as well leave it. It actually probably helps with preventing some dust from stalling in the top of the cone.
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