Thread: Clear Vue installation

Ron,

As near as I can measure the ID is 154mm and the outside of the plastic pipe is 158mm which must be why it slides on much easier than yours

Running the unit unloaded risks running too much current through the motor which can burn it out... Not recommended.

Hi John & Andrewwong

Thanks for the advice on running my CV without ducting
If I start my CV without duct I will restrict the inlet to stop overload.
My CV is using filters on the outlet within the Workshop so I expect the sound level will require taming.

John I will try your tip about heating and streching my flexi. Unfortunately my flexi is just 150mm Id so will require a large chamfer on the pipe to get it started.

Tonight I went to Masters store and purchased a 150mm thin wall metal joiner for Rangehood ducting.
This is thin wall and close to 150 mm OD.
It should slip inside 150 mm Drain and waste and inside flexi. Drain & Waste is 160OD & 150 Id

By the way John did you have to program your VFD before you connected to your motor.

The Instruction book is almost unintelligible even though I have programmed several Allen Bradley VFD's

I need to install seperate start and stop controls to interface with my Greengate extraction controller. From reading the book I have no idea where to start
Ron

Originally Posted by ronboult

Hi John & Andrewwong

Thanks for the advice on running my CV without ducting
If I start my CV without duct I will restrict the inlet to stop overload.
My CV is using filters on the outlet within the Workshop so I expect the sound level will require taming.

You'll be fine so long as you don't run it naked for too long. With a slightly restricted inlet, you should be even safer.

The yanks often build their filters into a soundproof cupboard. Sometimes the cyclone too. I was grateful not to need to do that, as it kept the footprint small.

John I will try your tip about heating and streching my flexi. Unfortunately my flexi is just 150mm Id so will require a large chamfer on the pipe to get it started.

Tonight I went to Masters store and purchased a 150mm thin wall metal joiner for Rangehood ducting.
This is thin wall and close to 150 mm OD.
It should slip inside 150 mm Drain and waste and inside flexi. Drain & Waste is 160OD & 150 Id

I reckon that with a chamfer it should be fine. My flexy is only a couple of millimetres bigger and it went on pretty easily. Remember your gloves.

By the way John did you have to program your VFD before you connected to your motor.

The Instruction book is almost unintelligible even though I have programmed several Allen Bradley VFD's

I need to install seperate start and stop controls to interface with my Greengate extraction controller. From reading the book I have no idea where to start
Ron

My VFD was programmed when I got it, thank goodness. As a sparky I would make a great cricketer. I have no idea what a Greengate extraction controller is, so can't help there.

I built and installed an RF remote to start and stop the cyclone, and would not be without it. My shop vac, which is now outside, is controlled by the same remote, which is on a lanyard around my neck. I love it to death.

Hi again John

Glad to hear you did not have to program your VFD. I cannot make much sense of the instruction book. Way over my head.

How did you connect your remote to the VFD to make it start and stop? I have a greengate controller that automatically starts my dust collector and opens the correct blast gate when I start a machine. This needs to interface with the VFD to start and stop the motor. There is someting in the Instruction Manual about a two wire control but I have little idea about how to set it up. I might have return my VFD and buy a Allen Bradley which I know how to program. Unfortunately big $
I gather you are in north Brisbane, I live on Macleay Is, are you interested in a visitor sometime?
cheers
Ron

Originally Posted by ronboult

Hi again John

Glad to hear you did not have to program your VFD. I cannot make much sense of the instruction book. Way over my head.

How did you connect your remote to the VFD to make it start and stop? I have a greengate controller that automatically starts my dust collector and opens the correct blast gate when I start a machine. This needs to interface with the VFD to start and stop the motor. There is someting in the Instruction Manual about a two wire control but I have little idea about how to set it up. I might have return my VFD and buy a Allen Bradley which I know how to program. Unfortunately big $
I gather you are in north Brisbane, I live on Macleay Is, are you interested in a visitor sometime?
cheers
Ron

You would be most welcome to visit. Shall I prepare coffee, tea, beer or red wine? When you come I could show you all the silly avoidable mistakes I made, as well as the things that work well.

Here is the thread on my remote installation. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/r...switch-168788/. I'll send you the details NC Archer PMed to me if I still have them. It was his design I finally used. It is quite simple. When I go into the shop I power up the VFD and slip on the remote. The remote operates an RF controlled GPO. This in turn activates a relay which closes the circuit between the DII and COM connections in the VFD. When this circuit is closed, the cyclone starts. Hit the switch again and the circuit opens and the cyclone stops. You could use a remote, or figure another way to get the signal to these connections in the VFD. I am happy to use the remote because often I start the cyclone as I am walking towards the machine to be used, as it takes a few seconds for the cyclone to wind up.

Originally Posted by John Samuel

I'll send you the details NC Archer PMed to me if I still have them. It was his design I finally used. It is quite simple.

Unfortunately the message from NC Archer is no longer in my folder. No big deal. Have a read of the thread and let me know what additional details you need. The 240 V set-up is a fair bit simpler than the one BobL sent me, although both would work fine.

There is one programming change you need to make so the remote will work, but as I recall it was a piece of cake, even for my electrically challenged brain.

OK Since I've got the basic VFD running as well, I have some interest in adding some bling to it. Apart from wiring Cat5 cable from the VFD to a remote plug at the other end of my workshop for the main console, I had a look at the manual for the PI8100, and I have a suggestion.

There are digital and analog inputs on the VFD. the Digital Inputs can be configured to manage the machine in o35 = 3 o "3 wire mode". FWD/REV/STOP. If you only use FWD and STOP on DI1 and DI2 by programming o36=1 o37=3
DI3-DI8 can also be programmed using o38-o43 for other functions (see page 91)

So I think all you need to do is ground these DI pins with the relay. Now the relay wired up to a IR switch wired to a GPO outlet is a bit dodgy and primitive.

Google - 4 or 8-Channel Wireless Remote Controller Switch

This gets you a 12V powered 4 or 8 button wireless remote under $30. You could do a lot with this... including JOG increase/decrease speed by holding down a button.
I think some of them allow you to set one or some channels so you can mix toggle or latching function (i.e. one press is ON, one press is OFF - what we want) and momentary ( press ON , release oFF).

I really think you only need about 4-5 channels. I've seen some for $1 on eBay. Cheep.

If you're unable to follow what I've written, wait till I build one and I'll write it up

I found a 4channel unit that works with WiFi and has an iPhone App. Going to go for that one because I don't need an extra remote control !

I have a communications board here for a P1800 which the manufacturers supplied me, I think John Samuel also has one from memory. I forget all the details but I can get more if needed. I think it is an RS something board, would that be right? I don't have a manual here and it wouldn't matter if I did as the whole thing may as well be written in pig latin as far as I am concerned.

A bit more info which may help some some users.

It is possible to program up to 10 different profiles to do different jobs. You could for instance put a dedicated profile in to ventilate the workshop after you leave it.

The keyboard can be programmed independently of the VFD. For instance a VFD could be programmed by Andrew who then loaded the program into the keyboard and sent it to John who could then load that program into his VFD. John could make a new profile to do this retaining his old program if he wished.

The keyboard can be removed and an ethernet cable used to remotely mount it anywhere in the workshop, Andrew has done this.

This VFD is light years ahead of most in features, the only issue I had was reading the book. The new generation P1900 just coming out is far easier to program, even I could do it.

OK,

Here is the detail on the wiring of my RF remote. First, here is an overview.
Overview AA.jpg

Next a wiring diagram.
Wiring Diagram.jpg

Now a pic of the relay (from Jaycar). No power flows to the output terminals. The power operates the switch which opens or closes the circuit. Open= motor starts. Closed=motor stops.
Relay wiring.jpg

Then a pic of the VFD wiring.
VFD Wiring AA.jpg

This pic shows the RF remote (sourced on web from Hong Kong ... comes with three GPOs - shop vac is on one of these GPOs) hanging on its lanyard. Went to Hong Kong to get the smaller remote. Controllers found at Jaycar and Bunnings etc were too large.
VFD and relay.jpg

Hope this helps. It works. I can turn the cyclone motor on or off from 30 M away in my lounge room, but if you want more bling, maybe Andrew's approach will help further.

Are you still planning a visit?

Cheerio!

John

Here's a photo of the keyboard mounted on a 1" piece of steel bar and clamped to my 6" pipework.
It's a 15m cable run using Cat5 cable.

I have the wireless remote relay system enroute, and report back if it's OK using the VFD's internal power supply.
This way, there's no need for any extra power supply and there's no hacking mains wiring.

To be honest, I did cringe looking at those photos of mains cable being used for 5v signals..IMG_3247.jpg

I'm not sure I would put anything involved in electronic control is on the outside of PVC ducting.
Static charges generated anywhere in or around PVC ducting will migrate immediately to the outside of the ducting and look for a place to discharge and while unlikely one never knows what it will do to a controller.

Originally Posted by BobL

I'm not sure I would put anything involved in electronic control is on the outside of PVC ducting.
Static charges generated anywhere in or around PVC ducting will migrate immediately to the outside of the ducting and look for a place to discharge and while unlikely one never knows what it will do to a controller.

Thanks for the tip.. I hadn't thought of that.. will ground the strap

Hi all,

I finally got my $10 RF remote relay off eBay in the mail, so I thought I'd share the instructions for wiring it up.

As I already have the PI1800 keyboard remotely run to the other side of the shed where my machines are, I only wanted an FWD/STOP function.
Frequency once set is something you don't really change.

Things you need:

1. A 1ch, 2ch or 4ch Wireless Remote Relay off eBay. Search for "Wireless Remote Control Switch Relay" etc. Funnily enough whether you get 1-4ch, they are almost all about $10 shipped.
2. Some low voltage wiring red, black, blue, white (or similar coloured) scraps to hook up the circuit board to the VFD
3. A screw to mount the relay box near the VFD
4. Be familiar with setting and navigating the keyboard menus on the VFD. I wont tell you how to use PRG, SET, ESC and the jog dial.

Let's pause for a safety moment.. Although this wiring is all low voltage.. you are putting your fingers near the mains terminals so unplug / switch off the VFD and make sure it's completely off.

A. Wiring up the VFD to Relays
- Look for the +10V and GND terminals (top row, far right). Hook these up to your relay board + and - terminals.

- On my 4ch relay board, each relay has printed on it 1,2,3 terminals. Others are A,B,C. You might want to check the datasheet for the relay on your board. 2 is the common and 1 is the NO (3 is NC). So I have one wire to 2, and one to 1 on my board. If unsure, check with a continuity tester

- For my installation, I will program DI1 to be the FWD command

- Wiring check - 4 wires : 10V to +, GND to -, DI1 to relay1 pin 2, COM to relay1 pin 1

B. Program the VFD

- Switch on the VFD.. if your relay board has a LED, it should go on now

- Use the keyboard buttons to enter the F menus. Go to F5. Set F5=1 (enables terminal commands, plus RS485, plus keyboard)

- Go to the o Menus. Set o35 = 0 if it isn't already. Set o36 = 1 (sets DI1 to the FWD command)

C. Test the VFD

- Press the "A" button on the wireless remote
- Fan should start. If it doesn't check with a multimeter than DI1 to COM is 24v when A is off, and DI1 to COM is 0v when A is on. The system looks for a falling edge to ON, rising edge to OFF on DI1.
- Depending on what your relay board is configured for either toggle or latching, press A again to send the STOP command, or press another relay channel to off relay A.

D. Finish the job

- Put the cover back on the VFD.
- Make sure the VFD saved your settings (Switch off, let it power down, switch on and check the menus again).
- Beer

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