Thread: 1930 Ford Model A Roadster - Extra Slow WIP

Originally Posted by Hermit

I'm enjoying making my car wheels. (Must be sick.)
My jig is almost ready. 2.46am and I'm still at it. Just one last bit to do and I can test it. Another hour.

I think thats my dislike, I don't want to have to build 5 other jigs let alone design them first to make the model.
One jig to drill rims, a jig to build rims etc.....
I want to mark up, cut, sand and glue and sand again and finish a roadster.
Well I'm past all that now. I Hope...
Peter

Peter,

Your wheels look great. I understand how you feel about working on a step you don't enjoy. For me its the last part and that is the finishing and sanding and applying another coat and then sanding again I dislike (hate) it.

I really enjoy making wheels and engines and detailed parts. Today I hope to make all the leading and trailing wheels for my train.

Looking forward to the next set of photos. Although you named yours extra slow, you and Steve seem to be on about the same pace.

Bret

Hi Bret,
Steve has been telling me how to do it.
I'd have nasty wheels if it wasn't for him (Thanks Steve).

I made those jigs where I forstner drilled a place for rims to go into it a block and then drill down thru the block, turn it 22.5 degrees to locating hole and drill again. Yeah ,when I got to the end it was out by miles.
I used Steves marking guage. Then my 2mm bit flexed to much.
Steve suggested predrilling with dremel.
Did that, worked fine and bit didn't flex much at all.

He's a bit annoyed with his equipment at the moment but he has to keep going so he can tell me how to get it right......
He knows how to get a jig together to work. The ones I come up with or find on youtube never seem to work for me.

My local library has this book [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Building-Antique-Model-Cars-Wood/dp/1895569516/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1338727079&sr=8-3"]Amazon.com: Building Antique Model Cars in Wood (9781895569513): William Reeves, Gerry Grajewski: Books[/ame]
If Steve guides me thru this model I may try another.
Peter

Hi Peoples,
Time for an update.
I've done all the wheels and now have a rolling stock.
Yay.
I've even gone one step past and have put the bumpers on.
All that money on clamps and now I'm using rubber bands.

The extra wheel with the solid wood centre I'm using to experiment on.
I've put tung oil on one side and BLO on the other so I can see what its going to look like (think wax over that).
The spares do not have the hole drilled , not sure if I will, may leave them.
Haven't come up with a finish for the model yet.
I tried some WOP but I don't like the feel of it, maybe I'm doing it wrong.

I've been busy with the handsaw clean ups (not calling it a resto) and thats going ok.
Peter

Looking good, Peter.
You're leaving me for dead. Mine should have been the 'extra-slow' thread.

Originally Posted by Hermit

Looking good, Peter.
You're leaving me for dead. Mine should have been the 'extra-slow' thread.

You'll catch up quick. I do it the hard way, you make a jig to do it quick. Only problem is you need 100 bucks of wood for jigs.

Looks good Peter,

Mr. Ford himself would be proud.

It is always a great milestone when the wheels go on a project.
Looking forward to the next update.

Bret

I still want suggestions for a finish.
Get a vote in before it becomes Spray can gloss.
Got BLO, WOP, TUNG, WAX and lots of spray cans.

Oh And I did buy an airbrush yesterday. Need to play with that as well.

I vote for something shiny. Not sure what wop is.

Bret

Originally Posted by bj383ss

I vote for something shiny. Not sure what wop is.

Bret

Wipe-on poly.

What's BLO? That one has me beat.

Boy I hate acronyms. Too bloody confusing.

Peter, what $100 for templates???
A few 4" square offcuts is all that's needed for the jigs.

BLO Boiled Linseed Oil
WOP Wip On Poly
Tung Oil is Pure Tung Oil.
EEE
paste wax

I think shiny as well but nothing I have is shiny.
And I don't want to do spray can of gloss?
Peter

Originally Posted by _fly_

BLO Boiled Linseed Oil
WOP Wip On Poly
Tung Oil is Pure Tung Oil.
EEE
paste wax

I think shiny as well but nothing I have is shiny.
And I don't want to do spray can of gloss?
Peter

I'm surprised you're even considering the spray-on stuff. Horrible junk in my opinion.

Wipe-on poly is shiny, even the satin, to a degree.
If you want a higher gloss, apply satin poly, rub lightly with 1200 or similar, then wax. You'll get a mirror finish.

I'm using wipe-on poly, but might not put it on everything.
As far as I know there is no law saying a whole model has to be finished in the same stuff.

Seriously considering leaving the tyres bare, or just a bit of oil.
Tyres look cheap and nasty with too good a gloss.
The body, on the other hand, should have a high gloss.
Chassis etc would be good in matt or satin too.

My 3c worth. (Inflation)

Originally Posted by Hermit

I'm surprised you're even considering the spray-on stuff. Horrible junk in my opinion.

Wipe-on poly is shiny, even the satin, to a degree.
If you want a higher gloss, apply poly, rub lightly with 1200 or similar, then wax. You'll get a mirror finish.

Thanks Steve,

I have gloss wipe on poly.
I put 3 coats onto something and it came out matt and felt 'plasticy".
I didn't do the 1200 and final wax but then why call it gloss? if I need to wax it after.
I was tempted to use Tung oil and then wax it.

I'll get a piece of scrap and try the WOP finish again.

Peter

Originally Posted by _fly_

Thanks Steve,

I have gloss wipe on poly.
I put 3 coats onto something and it came out matt and felt 'plasticy".
I didn't do the 1200 and final wax but then why call it gloss? if I need to wax it after.
I was tempted to use Tung oil and then wax it.

I'll get a piece of scrap and try the WOP finish again.

Peter

If gloss wipe-on poly went matt, it probably means you worked it a little too long, until it was beginning to set.
I have that problem on fiddly things at times. The poly has a very short working time.
Wipe-on is good provided you can get access for smooth continuous strokes. Hard on fiddly bits.

I'm probably going to finish each part separately before assembly to make it easier, making sure there's no finish on the gluing surfaces.

Bret is faced with the same problem and has decided he'll possibly leave the train bare.