Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 151 to 165 of 227
-
7th August 2012, 10:13 PM #151
Looking good Steve. Everything looks precise.
Bret
-
7th August 2012 10:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
7th August 2012, 11:09 PM #152
So far so good, Bret.
I'm hoping to get most, if not all, of the spoke-hole drilling in the hubs done tomorrow.
I can't wait to get these wheels finished and get onto the body.
At the moment I'm puzzling over the best way to make the hub caps. A slice of dowel would be easiest, but that would only present end-grain. I might have to try to hand-shape little disks. I'll use Silver Ash for a nice, white, chrome-like look.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
8th August 2012, 11:58 AM #153
G'Day Steve,
Could you use a "plug cutter" to make your blanks then sharp/carve them to how you want them to look??
Cheers, crowie
-
8th August 2012, 12:53 PM #154
Hi Peter. Great minds think alike.
I ordered a set of plug cutters last night, just in case, but thinking along those lines I reckon I can make them using a holesaw without it's pilot bit. Almost the same as a plug cutter.
I'll give it a test later. If I have a problem, I'll bore a hole in a small board to use as a guide, clamped to the workpiece.
As mentioned, if that doesn't work, I'll have the plug cutters to fall back on.
I'll cut a cylinder, round the end to hub-cap shape, then slice it off 3mm thick. (6 times).... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
8th August 2012, 02:56 PM #155
No problems. The holesaw minus pilot bit worked well. 2 x 18mm hub cap blanks, they just need cleaning up to 17mm dia., then shaping and cutting into individual hub caps.
I didn't need a guide, I just clamped down really well.
A new trick learned.
The first, on the left, has a slight taper at the top, (not that it matters), but the second one cut clean and cylindrical: -
Attachment 218764
I can get back onto the hub shaping now that's off my mind.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
8th August 2012, 05:08 PM #156
The hubs trimmed to 19mm diameter and the axle-holes drilled out to 6.5mm.
Spoke-end hole drilling next.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
8th August 2012, 09:37 PM #157
Here's another for you Steve.
MOTORING along now.......
-
8th August 2012, 09:46 PM #158
-
8th August 2012, 09:55 PM #159
-
8th August 2012, 10:15 PM #160
I never thought about using a hole saw without the pilot bit. I may have to try an experiment on the lathe and see how it turns out. Might save me some time. I could use it to rough out. Drill as deep as possible and then take it to the bandsaw and saw off the bottom to release.
Looking good Steve keep chugging along!
Bret
-
8th August 2012, 10:25 PM #161
Slow, slow, slow, but it's getting there.
Since the wheels are a fair departure from the plans, I'm trying to carefully show all the steps in order. (I had to plan carefully to get it to work out.)
ie Couldn't cut them out then use a Forstner bit for the axle-head recess, since the 6mm holesaw pilot is too large to centre the Forstner bit.
112 holes to drill in the 7 hubs tomorrow - should keep me out of trouble. (Then 96 in the 6 rims.)
Bret, I wouldn't use a holesaw without pilot bit in a hand drill, but it works well in a drill press and should with a lathe too. (Not really any different to a plug cutter.)
It did clog often, though, so I had to clear the teeth every 1-2mm and let the cutter cool to help avoid burning. I used the vacuum cleaner with a crevice attachment to cool the cutter when it was out of the timber and speed the process.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
8th August 2012, 11:02 PM #162
I just realised that I forgot to post one of the pics earlier.
This is trimming the hubs to 19mm diameter with the hand drill / disc sander. Rugged and not particularly high precision, but it does the job.
I made up a temporary table extension with acrylic top and used the drill's 2nd handle bracket to slide along the PVC as a guide. Made it easier than holding the drill mid-air: -... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
9th August 2012, 12:45 AM #163
Marking the spoke positions on the edge of the hubs: -
Attachment 218833
Transferring the marks to the centre line.
It's easier to get them spot-on when clamped in a vice: -
Attachment 218834
Edit: The hubs must be exactly 15mm deep at this stage, or when in the spoking jig the hub will not be central to the rim.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
9th August 2012, 05:27 AM #164
Steve,
You and your jigs. You should go into business making professional woodworking jigs.
Bret
-
9th August 2012, 10:54 AM #165
Ha. Yeah, I'd probably enjoy that. I'd go broke though. Two or three jigs and I'd reach market saturation.
Actually, the one in the pic is my dowel clamp, for cutting dowel. I drilled several dowel-sized holes along it, 1/2", 1/4", 3/16" and 3/32", then partly split it and added the bolt.
In conjunction with the Dremel Multi-Max flush-cutter blade, it works a treat. Nice accurate cuts and no tearout (and no dowel-spinning).... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
Similar Threads
-
Toys for Big Boys - 1936 Ford Roadster
By BigDBigD in forum SCALE MODELLINGReplies: 8Last Post: 16th May 2012, 05:06 AM -
Model A Roadster
By elderly in forum SCALE MODELLINGReplies: 73Last Post: 25th February 2011, 12:02 PM -
Ford Model T
By nine fingers in forum TOY MAKINGReplies: 35Last Post: 5th January 2011, 09:55 PM -
1930 model A
By barg2757 in forum MOTOR VEHICLESReplies: 0Last Post: 17th December 2008, 09:48 PM -
1930 Model "A" Ford tourer
By powderpost in forum SCALE MODELLINGReplies: 8Last Post: 8th December 2008, 02:57 PM