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  1. #121
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    They look great Steve.

    One little tip I give you is this. In the photo when you chucked the tires with the pin jaws. They way I get mine straight is by placing 2 blocks of MDF behind the piece against the chuck. This way the piece is perfectly straight with the chuck. I have a couple of different thicknesses to use for different size pieces. If it doesn't make sense I can post a pic.

    So now for some ebonizing. I been wondering if I should ebonize my tires.

    Bret

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  3. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by bj383ss View Post
    They look great Steve.

    One little tip I give you is this. In the photo when you chucked the tires with the pin jaws. They way I get mine straight is by placing 2 blocks of MDF behind the piece against the chuck. This way the piece is perfectly straight with the chuck. I have a couple of different thicknesses to use for different size pieces. If it doesn't make sense I can post a pic.

    So now for some ebonizing. I been wondering if I should ebonize my tires.

    Bret
    Good tip, Bret. Nice and logical. Thanks for that.
    I did it the hard way - lined up the end of the tool rest with the edge of the tyre, slowly nudged the tyre until it was true, then tightened the chuck.
    Using your method, the tyre would be held better as well as being automatically true, since it would be supported from the back.

    Haven't you already put the white walls into your tyres? Ebonising them would work best if you ebonised after cutting the recess for the white timber, but before gluing it in. Pretty tricky if not impossible with the white walls in place.

    Another point just occurred to me - even if you ebonised then glued in the lighter timber, you could only sand the blackened part very lightly or it will sand through the black, much like with stain or dye. It would be hard to shape the 'white' timber to blend without touching the blackened area.
    I've successfully touched up ebonising with a brush after sanding, by continually wetting the surface, but hard to do at the junction of the two timbers. Got me thinking now.....

    Meantime, I think that the Dremel cutting discs will burn the timber too much for cutting the tread, especially in this hard old Blackbutt, so I've decided to modify a Dremel 1mm high-speed cutter by grinding it thinner, to about 0.5mm to 0.8mm wide. Whatever looks about right with test cuts.
    I won't feel guilty grinding it down, since it can be my permanent tread-cutter for car wheels.
    This is it (before grinding):

    Dremel high-speed cutter.JPG
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  4. #123
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    Yup you are right Steve. Too late for my tires. Its early in the morning. I like you idea for the tread. I did the ones for the Scania using the bandsaw. Made a jig to support it while I spinned the wheel into the blade. From here on out will make them on the lathe. I suppose I need to just find some darker wood to make tires out of. Maybe some Black Walnut.


    Bret

  5. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by bj383ss View Post
    Yup you are right Steve. Too late for my tires. Its early in the morning. I like you idea for the tread. I did the ones for the Scania using the bandsaw. Made a jig to support it while I spinned the wheel into the blade. From here on out will make them on the lathe. I suppose I need to just find some darker wood to make tires out of. Maybe some Black Walnut.
    Bret
    Black Walnut would look good - great contrast. I tried to get some a while ago, but couldn't find it here. Nearest was a piece of Peruvian Walnut, but it was too dear to waste on tyres.
    Ebony would look good too, I would think.

    Edit: African Blackwood can be pretty dark as well. I just had a quick look on Google Images.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  6. #125
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    I've been pretty busy doing other stuff for a couple of days, but have got a bit more done.

    The tread cutting went smoothly. I finally decided on 0.5mm for tread kerf and ground the Dremel cutter accordingly.

    I also ebonised the tyres last night. I let them soak in the solution for 6 hours. Rather than make a new batch, I decided to test the remaining ebonising mix left over from last year when I was making the '28 Ford Roadster, and was surprised to find that it worked as well as ever and had lost no strength over time. In fact, all of the rust particles had settled to the bottom, leaving a fairly clear liquid (iron acetate) to work with.

    In the solution:

    Tyres in ebonising solution.jpg


    After rinsing, drying and a quick sand with 240G. (6 hours soaking in a water-based liquid raises the grain horribly.) I forgot to take a photo after cutting the tread, but you can just see it in this pic.:

    Ebonised once.JPG


    Next up I'll give them a quick coat of tannic acid to ensure a strong reaction, then when dry back into the eboniser to finish off. (The first sanding rubs through slightly in places.)

    Next update will be when the wheels are glued up and finished.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  7. #126
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    The tyres went on without incident. I kept a length of 3/4" dowel and a hammer handy, in case any jammed while I was sliding them on, but didn't need to resort to force in the end. I used Selleys PVA instead of Titebond, too, since it doesn't have as much initial tack.

    I've put one coat of Danish oil over them so far. I'll give them one more, then when they've dried thoroughly I'll give the rims (only) a coat of poly to bring up the gloss. I want the tyres to stay a bit dull.

    Wheels - 1 coat DO.jpg


    I was about to start shaping the hub caps, but on reflection I might make some new ones. The current ones are too white and stand out too much. Also the dowel stands out too much from the rest of the hub cap. I'll have to think about what timber to use. I want them to be lighter than the rims, but not too much lighter, I guess.
    Maybe it's just me. Any opinions?
    (Whatever I use for the hub caps will then also be used for the bumpers and probably the door handles.)

    Rear wheel test fit.jpg
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  8. #127
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    To help me decide, I just quickly shaped a hub cap and gave it a coat of Danish oil. It doesn't stand out so much any more, but still too light I think....
    Any views?

    Test hub cap.JPG
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  9. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermit View Post
    To help me decide, I just quickly shaped a hub cap and gave it a coat of Danish oil. It doesn't stand out so much any more, but still too light I think....
    Any views?

    Test hub cap.JPG
    what about buy some of that silver foil stuff they have in the junk shops that sell paint and canvas etc.
    They also have copper and gold foil.
    then you can have the chome silvery hub caps.

  10. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by _fly_ View Post
    what about buy some of that silver foil stuff they have in the junk shops that sell paint and canvas etc.
    They also have copper and gold foil.
    then you can have the chome silvery hub caps.
    I considered something like that, but it would make the wheels stand out a bit too much, I think. Even more than the Silver Ash. I'll stick with timber, but possibly go a little darker.

    Gold hub caps would look pretty cool though.

    I hate remaking things, so I'll knock off for the day and leave it until tomorrow. Gives me time to decide.
    Overall, I like the look of the one I just made, there's just too much contrast between the hub caps and everything else and I'm trying to avoid making the wheels the feature. I'm aiming for a set of wheels attached to a VW rather than a VW attached to a set of wheels.

    I think that I need to do away with that dark dowel centre if I remake them, too, although I still want a circle where the VW emblem would be. Maybe stop the dowel just short of the top and plug with a cross-grain Silver Ash plug, (or whatever timber I use for the hub caps), with the grain oriented at 90 degrees to the rest of the hub cap to make the outline discernible.

    I know what I'll be dreaming about tonight.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  11. #130
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    You could carve the VW logo and when the silver goes over the top, you'd still see it.
    And if you want to take focus from the wheels, maybe do the bumpers in silver chrome as well (and the petrol cap).

    that silver foil is only 5 or 6 bucks for foil and the special glue, so maybe grab one of the too white ones, carve the VW centre and then try one.

  12. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by _fly_ View Post
    You could carve the VW logo and when the silver goes over the top, you'd still see it.
    And if you want to take focus from the wheels, maybe do the bumpers in silver chrome as well (and the petrol cap).

    that silver foil is only 5 or 6 bucks for foil and the special glue, so maybe grab one of the too white ones, carve the VW centre and then try one.
    I could, if I could carve a VW logo that small. I can't see well enough for that. The circle that the logo would go into is only 6mm diameter. Some small metal letter stamps would be handy. I wonder if there's an old typewriter at the local tip? The capitals would be ideal. I might do a run out there for a look.
    I was only planning to have an empty circle, like the VW emblem on the bonnet.
    I'd avoid metal foils etc, though. I'm trying to keep to all timber as much as possible.

    No visible petrol cap on these - it's under the bonnet. Later models had it under a hatch on the RHS front.
    I did consider adding valve stems to the rims, though. Might still happen.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  13. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hermit View Post
    The tyres went on without incident. I kept a length of 3/4" dowel and a hammer handy, in case any jammed while I was sliding them on, but didn't need to resort to force in the end. I used Selleys PVA instead of Titebond, too, since it doesn't have as much initial tack.

    I've put one coat of Danish oil over them so far. I'll give them one more, then when they've dried thoroughly I'll give the rims (only) a coat of poly to bring up the gloss. I want the tyres to stay a bit dull.

    Wheels - 1 coat DO.jpg


    I was about to start shaping the hub caps, but on reflection I might make some new ones. The current ones are too white and stand out too much. Also the dowel stands out too much from the rest of the hub cap. I'll have to think about what timber to use. I want them to be lighter than the rims, but not too much lighter, I guess.
    Maybe it's just me. Any opinions?
    (Whatever I use for the hub caps will then also be used for the bumpers and probably the door handles.)

    Rear wheel test fit.jpg
    That's looking very good Steve; I say the wheels have come up a treat.....
    You are certainly showing off you modeling craftsmanship skills.....very well done.
    Cheers crowie

  14. #133
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    Yes steve I agree with Crowie I think the wheels look great
    bob

  15. #134
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    I like the wheels as well Steve. Maybe just change the color of the center dowel to be a little lighter. Also adding the valve stems will be cool. I need to do that to mine. The tires look awesome. I need to do that to the next set I make.

    Bret

  16. #135
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    Steve,

    The wheels look great. Changing the center dowels to match sounds fine. I'd probably dry fit them to see how they look in contrast when they are on the Bug before doing any other changes to them.....

    Cheers,

    Jim

    Okay .....you did dry fit them..... just make the center dowel match and all will look fine
    (Obviously my opinion must be weighed against the fact that I didn't notice things in the first place.........)

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