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Thread: Small Block Chevy 1/10 Scale
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15th April 2013, 11:25 AM #16SENIOR MEMBER
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Smoko ...............
Are these gaskets photo copies of the real gaskets reduced in scale ?
Its just amazing how fast you can work. Looking at the time stamps on your photos this was done in 2 days. Incredible.
Its going to be a fantastic motor. But can you put your hand or something into the picture to give some visual scale ... would be much appreciated.
Also mate ...... Ditch the standard exhaust manifolds and go for extractors .... go for tuned extractors if possible .. ?? its no good suckin in all that air and then tryin to push it out, hot, compressed, thru those manifolds. (sorry mate ... shouldn't be givin my opinion)
I'm following this ..... will get good ideas ...
cool bananas ... Greg
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15th April 2013, 11:31 AM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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John (Nine Fingers) suggested I use Huon Pine for the Volutes on the injectors. I ended up giving this some serious thought, but when I measured the thickness of the lips of the brass volutes they were only 0.25mm. Multiply that by 6 and you have 1.5mm, which is thicker than the reality.
So I realised it just wouldn't work in wood .. at 0.25mm I don't think the volutes would survive teething grandkids, humidity and temp change over the years. Are you going to turn yours from wood ... ??
It looks simply great already ...
Greg
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15th April 2013, 12:50 PM #18
[QUOTE=Mutawintji;1635684]John (Nine Fingers) suggested I use Huon Pine for the Volutes on the injectors. I ended up giving this some serious thought, but when I measured the thickness of the lips of the brass volutes they were only 0.25mm. Multiply that by 6 and you have 1.5mm, which is thicker than the reality.
I have some parts that are out of scale as well simply because it just can't be done in wood. The flanges on the valve covers and timing cover are close but in reality they are twice as thick in my scale as they the real world. But I still think the look realistic. There can be some limitation in wood due to its strength when very thin.
So I realised it just wouldn't work in wood .. at 0.25mm I don't think the volutes would survive teething grandkids, humidity and temp change over the years.
Are you going to turn yours from wood ... ??
Not sure yet how I am going to make them as the ones I want to use have a rounded 45* angle. They are called Hot rod Frog Mouth Scoops.
Here is the manifold I want to make and the 6 Stromberg 97's. It shouldn't be too hard to make I have several really good shots of it to reference.
Hope this helps answer some of your questions. Thanks for following and your support. I am really enjoying your build as well.
BRet
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15th April 2013, 01:19 PM #19
Bret, it's got me stuffed how you and Greg can work on such a small scale. Coming along well, and too fast for words.
Love the little engine stand, it's a nice touch.
I have to steal the idea of working from scaled photos, especially when I eventually start on my '58 FC Holden, since there are no ready-made plans. I already have a good photo collection, just no spare time.
I'm loving this and Greg's builds. Keep up the almost unbelievable work. Looking really good.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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15th April 2013, 01:31 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks for kind remarks Steve, even tho I am in Bret's thread .... Ta.
Bret ... thats what I do ... just use the photocopier to bring it to scale.
Your engine ... from palm print, looks slightly smaller than mine, but mine is currently a V16. it will be cut in two eventually ..
Ok ... love the extractors .... they definitely look great, no problem. But .. their not tuned ? But to compensate it appears that they have been tuned in a round about way by the increasing flair in the main exhaust pipe.
WOW .... I am now waiting to see how the Strombergs come out ... so many questions.
Will you use any metal at all ?
What level of detail, linkages, etc ... (or just ignore me and I will wait .. Haa)
I am regretting now not detailing my rocker covers as you have .... they look the true part.
I'm hooked here now ..... Greg
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15th April 2013, 01:33 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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Steve ... you going to hoon it ... FC, flaired guards, wide wheels ? or replica ?
Greg
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15th April 2013, 01:38 PM #22
No mate, no mods - 100% stock. After making the '28 Roadster for Jack, his birth year model, I got a hankering to do something similar for myself. Been collecting photos, taking measurements, researching etc. Even bought a 1:24 resin body to measure, then scale to 1:12. Some time off yet, though.
... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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15th April 2013, 01:43 PM #23
Greg I think I understand what you men on tuned headers but on a small block Chevy they would be difficult to make. It would require some steam building for sure. The straight headers I posted are what most hot rodders use here as they are very simple to hookup
The Strombergs will have as much detail as I can give them. I think they be big enough that I can make fuel lines and some of the linkage I am more worried about how i am going to make the scoops. Probably going to take some experimentation
Bret
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15th April 2013, 01:44 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
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Well ... we are in Bret's thread ... and are off topic. oooppps.
A sideplate 149 cubic inch from memory (or smaller 13sumtin)... But .. a lotta curves in an FE/FC shell .. for some reason I see a ute ?
Greg
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15th April 2013, 01:48 PM #25
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15th April 2013, 01:56 PM #26SENIOR MEMBER
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ALso the extractors (headers ?) in the photos are tuned to some extent .. and possibly overtuned for the rev-range of that engine ... I am presuming that hot-rod-ers would only be going to about 6-7K rpm ?
Well ... unless the scoops in the burgundy-red-crimson photo are the only type (oval rectangles) favoured for that engine, then circular (which will give an ellipse on the angle cut) are not hard to make ? Are you 'stuck' on the frogmouths ? I know how this is ... I'm stuck on tuned exhausts on mine, an its gunna be all pain and very little gain ... HaaHaa.
Greg
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16th April 2013, 03:08 AM #27
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21st April 2013, 11:56 AM #28
Thank you Derek. What are you up to these days?
Greg most street cars do have tuned length headers. The old school hot rods just threw together whatever they could find. The ones in the pictures I think they call them zoomies, you will notice on the end you can cap the header and there is a hookup on the bottom that runs through a full exhaust out the back of the car. And yes most hot rod engines peak torque around 6,000 -6,500.
Well ... unless the scoops in the burgundy-red-crimson photo are the only type (oval rectangles) favoured for that engine, then circular (which will give an ellipse on the angle cut) are not hard to make ? Are you 'stuck' on the frogmouths ? I know how this is ... I'm stuck on tuned exhausts on mine, an its gunna be all pain and very little gain ... HaaHaa.
Greg
Here is today's update.
Worked on the detailing of the block.
I was going through an album I have of one of my cars. I had several really good reference photos that I could use. Wish I would have remembered these when I started the project. I was a mad documenter and took a picture at every stage of the build.
Here is one of the pictures I am using for detail reference on the side of the block.
I cutout the passenger side to mark the location for the freeze plugs and motor mount bosses.
Driver side
I cutout some .020 thick pieces to form the casting on the side of the block around the freeze plugs.
Gluing them on using the rubber band as a clamp and the dowel to line it up with the holes in the block.
After some shaping and filing.
Motor Mount bosses glued in. Need to be filed down
More...
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21st April 2013, 12:00 PM #29
Oil Filter Mount
Freeze plugs installed
Mechanical Fuel Pump Mount
Was working on the starter mount but ran out of go juice.
Bret
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21st April 2013, 12:37 PM #30SENIOR MEMBER
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Wow ... Great detail. Sunday morning here and just back from the laundromat. This makes better reading than the sun morn papers ... Haa
really great on the detail. Even down to the welsh plugs. The timber looks similar to mine, iz it Pacific Maple ? Or maybe Meranti ?
You work so fast I feel guilty. Your base patterning is a great idea and it works so well. The two indents on the rocker cover photo where the bolts go, have a great effect. Lifts it into 'reality' scale. Likewise the headbolts.
So many good ideas ...
greg
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