5th Jun 2019, 06:05 AM #1
What is the Best Glue to Use for Building Models
I'm still working on my Model B John Deere model. Iíve cut most everything and now want to glue things together. I want to oil and varnish, not paint since I made most of the model from Texas red oak. I want the grains to show.
In the past several of my projects, Iíve had to be really be careful to not let the glue run out the edges because that glue, even wiped off, will not allow any stain or linseed oils to get to that part of the wood. Just doesnít give the look I want.
Being models (miniatures) makes it real hard to sand off many to most of the very small parts.
Iíve tried Tight Bond II and III and even 2P.10.
I can use some suggestions on better glues as well as prepping procedures.
I know I do not have all of the answers and real interested in what other's are doing.
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5th Jun 2019, 06:26 AM #2
When I have a critical assembly of a small finished joint where appearance is important I use either a small dabber to apply glue only to the inside of the joint or if I have a number of such joints to glue up I use a 10cc syringe and a blunted 18 ga. needle.Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.
5th Jun 2019, 10:44 AM #3
5th Jun 2019, 11:10 AM #4
I usually use Titebond 3. To keep the tip clear I stick it into a wet towel when I'm not using it. I've also used a cup of water and put the syringe tip down into it. Shake off the water and dilute glue and use.Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.
5th Jun 2019, 11:14 PM #5
G'Day Bill, I use the Titebond Original as it has less of a tendency to slip when clamped.
I was recommended to use it by another forum member a few years back and have used it ever since.
5th Jun 2019, 11:41 PM #6
Rob & Crowie,
These are great ideas! I'll start looking for a syringe with an 18 ga. needle.
No, wait, I found this -> HYPO-6505 Glue Applicator & Cement Dispenser for $3.00 USD. I do not know the physical difference between 18 and 16 gauge needles. Not sure if Titebond will pass through it. If this doesn't work, I'll be looking for a syringe.
6th Jun 2019, 10:29 AM #7Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Laharum Victoria
A fellow that I knew made a lot of pine products to sell at markets.
They were all done with his own mix of oil based stain the ingredients he purchased from my hardware store.
He told me that he used a mixture of vinegar and water on a rag to wipe of any excess PVA glue residue after assembly and again before staining.
Sorry I can't ask him the proportions are as he is no longer with us.
I am sure he got the idea from someone else so it may be written down somewhere.
6th Jun 2019, 08:01 PM #8Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Brisbane, Qld
G'day Bill, I use plain old white PVA glue for my toys and models. I also only oil my creations so am very conscious of glue squeeze out. I use a glue bottle with a needle tip (can purchase here in Oz from Carbatec) but have found I need to add several drops of water to the water-based PVA glue to get it to flow through the glue bottle needle tip.
6th Jun 2019, 10:42 PM #9
I only ever use PVA and have a damp cloth handy to wipe any squeeze out immediately I don't use oil to finish but buy spray on sander sealer followed by a spray on Satin lacquer not had any problems with staining. for very small pieces I use a cocktail stick to apply the glue as you can get as small as a pn head using that method
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