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Thread: Model railways

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up A decription of my layout construction / features

    Hi everyone,
    I have a 8' x 4' HO layout, I made it as 3 sections that slide together using Jarrah L shape channels under 12 mm chipboard ( no other framework ).

    The middle 4.25' x 4' deep section locates ( dowels on underside ) on a custom mobile wooden trolley with two removable runners that support all 3 sections, the two ends simply slide into matching Jarrah L shape channels underneath the centre section.

    Removable pin hinges are used to lock each section togeather, and the electrical connections are made of mains insulated terminal strip ( the male half of the connection has short lengths of brass tubing as pins screwed into place - you screw your wires into the outer row of holes on both strips ) that slide together as you slide the end sections into the main section.

    I have a 1' 6'' high 1/16'' ply backboard ( supported with 1/4'' hardwood verticals, and a top runner on the back ) on 3 sides of my layout.

    I have predominately American rolling stock and scenery, with British backdrops ( I have American rolling stock because Life-like, an American company, makes cheap reasonable quality rolling stock and scenery, but British backdrops because that is all the local model shops sell ).

    I have added custom electrics / electronics to my layout and rolling stock, such as building and street lighting, working electric boom gates with flashing signals, automatic switching working signals, red flasher on caboose, yellow flasher on roof of diesel locos, diesel sound effects on board ( Dick Smith kit ), I do not use the new DCC systems at present ( they are still out of my price range ), I make do with home made controllers and manual track switching etc. on my custom control panel.

    I have now moved house 2 times ( with the entire layout ), and I can tell you that the centre section at just 4.25' x 4' deep is just managable to move by one strong person, I would not recommend any module size bigger than this, unless you have 2 or more helpers on call.

    Since building my layout I joined AMRA ( Australian Model Railway Association - WA branch in Bayswater ), and learned a few things, they use pine ( 19mm x 42mm arranged in 1' square frames with either 9mm MDF or 4mm ply bases under each layout is common, ) for all their framing and legs, many are made in easy to transport and reassemble custom sections to enable displays other than at the clubrooms, Their main website is http://www.amra.asn.au/ - they have one for each state branch linked from this site too.

    I hope this is helpfull to you with your proposed modular layout.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Hi dhgomm and thanks for all that great info and I have a question for you.

    How do you join the tracks between the modules, do you join them or get them to line up.

    I’m still kicking ideas around but they are starting to get some shape.

    I’m thinking of making the modules up based on just two shapes, 2’ by 6’ straight modules and 4’ by 4’ L shaped corner modules.

    I want to be able to use them in Domino type operations and so I am thinking about down the road, of making a T module to allow give me the ability to have junction operations.

    Anyway, a long way to go yet.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up Track connections between modules

    Hi Drivesafe,
    I just place the track so it butts up against the track on the next module, there are no track joins involved ( if you dont have a track joint at the junction of your modules, simply cut the track there with either mini cutters or a fine toothed razor saw ). You do need to make electrical connections to each section of track ( on both modules ).

    The removable pins hinges ( if removable pin hinges are too big, just make your own removable pins, and remove the fixed pins from standard hinges ), fixed to the sides of your module framing, guarantee horizontal and vertical allignment of your modules, which is needed to align the tracks that just butt together at the joins of your modules.

    From the number and positions of your modules it sounds like the layout you are planning will be about 'club layout' size, or larger. Are you going to start off small and then expand as needed ?, or build most, or all of the modules at more or less the same time ?.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Thanks again David, I’m going to build just two modules at first.

    1 corner and 1 straight to see if all works out, then I’ll build enough for a loop ( Total of 6 or 8 modules ) and just take it form there.

    At this stage, I’m not planning on having any scenery because I want to use both side of each module. One side for HO and the other for G, while I test everything out.

    Cheers, Tim.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up

    Hi Drivesafe,
    That is certainly the most original track plan I ever heard of, but then modeling is all about being original ( and having original problems occasionally ).

    How do you plan to prevent damage to the 'HO' track, when on the underside of your 'G' scale railway ( as 'G' scale trains can be quite heavy ) ?.

    Laying track only will make it an expensive 'Train Set', to truly call it a 'layout' ( as I thought you might be making ), you need scale scenery as well ( this is what clubs will tell you anyway ).

    Sometimes what you plan, just keeps on growing, and before you know it, you may want to build a dedicated 'HO layout', or you might just prefer the 'G' scale and plant a garden around it to imitate the scenery.

    Whatever you decide, now or in the future, have lots of fun.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Hi David, the plan is to see how both gauges work in a modular type set up and then down the road I will remove the G Scale track and then put not only scenery but probably add some working features such as sidings and such to the HO.

    My initial set up is intended more to get trains running, in both scales, as I have been collecting the HO for nearly 40 years, the G scale for about 25 years and much of my gear has never seen a track, so it’s about time.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Thumbs up

    Hi Drivesafe,
    That is a long time to collect model trains, and not run them.

    My track is waiting for me to finish upgrading the track wiring, to match the new control panel improvements I made about 3 years ago.

    My trains have not been run for the last 3 years due to other interests, and illness taking precidence, as happens to all of us at times.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    37

    Default lightweight modules

    Hi David, and to anyone reading this thread and contemplating building a modular type layout, there is a very interesting article about building lightweight modules, in the current edition of Model Railroader magazine.

    As I have posted, I intend to use both side of my modules, so this lightweight version doesn’t lend itself to what I want to do, but none the less, it looks like a great idea.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    37

    Default

    BTW, thats the April 2009 edition of Model Railroader.

    Page 48 for those of you who are going to do some speed reading at your local newsagents.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Hi folks, and going by the VIEW count, there is obviously some interest in model rail so as I’m taking some time to get my act together as far as the posting up the progress with my module goes or isn’t going, how about some of you posting up some pictures of your own layouts or just pictures of some of your favourite rail models?

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Newtown Geelong
    Posts
    1,878

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi folks, and going by the VIEW count, there is obviously some interest in model rail so as I’m taking some time to get my act together as far as the posting up the progress with my module goes or isn’t going, how about some of you posting up some pictures of your own layouts or just pictures of some of your favourite rail models?
    Need more of you rail guys to vote see HERE
    At top of page is a poll. Trying to get us away from a sub section off toys.
    Vote NO if you want a forum to ourselves or yes if you want us hiden under a toy sub forum
    Back To Car Building & All The Sawdust.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Maylands, Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    58
    Posts
    218

    Exclamation I don't think this forum should be a subforum, or any part, of any "toys" forum

    Hi Everyone,

    Sorry, I missed the forum poll, I have been sick and only just done a fresh install of my OS, and been able to access the internet and e-mails again, for the first time in at least two weeks ( and this forum for the first time in at least three weeks - due to problems with my computer - it may have been longer ! ).

    Model trains, and other scale models that you have to build ( or even have to first make the parts for ) are definitely not "toys".

    "Toys" are generally puchased from shops, ready to use ( may require batteries etc. first ) are generally much less detailed than "scale models", and are intended for young children to play with.

    I don't think there is a scale modeller anywhere that would disagree with my definitions, so I don't think this forum should be a subforum, or any part, of any "toys" forum.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Ballarat, Victoria
    Posts
    9

    Default T_Trak Modules N Gauge

    Good evening, After a considerable time away from modelling the bug has resurfaced.

    I am getting together the material to have a go at the T-Trak idea in N gauge. Smallish modules constructed of 6mm mdf with clearly defined specifications allowing for interconnection with other modules.

    Anyone wanting to put their toe in the modelling water might like to search the T-Trak specs and have a look. Lots of good information available online and the people who have had a go at T-Trak are very willing to share their knowledge.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Paignton. Devon. U.K.
    Posts
    6,062

    Default

    If I returned to modelling railway I would go P4 and just a small country platform scene, no running,more like a diorama.
    woody U.K.

    "Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    37

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael_Bike View Post
    Good evening, After a considerable time away from modelling the bug has resurfaced.

    I am getting together the material to have a go at the T-Trak idea in N gauge. Smallish modules constructed of 6mm mdf with clearly defined specifications allowing for interconnection with other modules.

    Anyone wanting to put their toe in the modelling water might like to search the T-Trak specs and have a look. Lots of good information available online and the people who have had a go at T-Trak are very willing to share their knowledge.
    Hi Michael, do you have a link to any info relating to T-Trak module dimensions?

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