Thread: Packhard Body update wip.

Also any pics of the steering mechanism ?

The rear diff looks like it has a tailshaft coming forward all the way, so there must be an engine as well. Would love to see closeups if your camera can do ?

The painting of each body part separate is gunna give it some great realistic lines.

greg

Lost order of pics

The first two are the best of five that i could get of the steering , the stub works just like an normal king pin type,carved out of "SAPELE", with bent brass(dressmakers) pins as steering arms. not sure how I'll connect the steering wheel and shaft, next is the motor, the big distributor is similar to the one on the photo i am working off, it looks over size too, then my engine may not be quite to scale too. chassis mudguards engine temporarily glued(hot) then panels added to see how it looks.CD.

To me the scale looks correct. Dizzy looks correct to ... But so many questions.

what are the leads made of, have you saddled the coil lead and is there a coil on the other side ? Is the dizzy brass, or some uncanny paint that looks exactly like brass.

I wish you had a better camera ... Haa

great work and progressing so quick !!!

greg

Yes Greg, I wish I had a better camera also,Yep the dizzy is brass, (stem off a tap washer)drilled and the lead inserted and super glued in place,the other end inserted in holes in the pretend plugs and glued, the coil lead is only held in place with hot glue,but will be painted to look like saddles, coil will be on fire wall. leads are from a computer lead. and thank all you blokes for the kind wordsCD.

The head lights are made out of 5cent coins, and the pics show how I've done it. photo's are all out of order sorryCD

When they are completed I hope to have the LED lights working,(will need some advice when I get that far) I think I have pics in order this timeCD

They're looking really good CD.
Nice bit of lateral thinking with the headlight bodies, too.
I can help with lighting up the LEDs when the time comes. Just need the voltage you'll be using and, if possible, the max current, (I_fwd), of those particular LEDs, although that's less important if you don't know. 20mA is most common and below the max of all LEDs. You'll only need one series resistor with each LED.

G'Day CD, I'm still here watching and enjoy the build.
You are certainly put a heap of time and effort into the detail.
Your WIP photos & build notes are great, thank you.
Cheers, crowie

I am trying to bend some very small(thin)timber to make bows for the canvas type roof for the packard, have made a steamer out of a tin can and a peice of copper pipe, and am useing a benzomatic gas bottle to boil the water, BUT no matter how long i steam it for it still wants to splinter on the corners(they are tight bends) I made a jig to fit it into till it cools but when i take it out the bends split not break just splinter,I have not tried to do this before and could do with a bit of advice,PLEASE CD will post pic's tomorrow

Originally Posted by col's dad

I am trying to bend some very small(thin)timber to make bows for the canvas type roof for the packard, have made a steamer out of a tin can and a peice of copper pipe, and am useing a benzomatic gas bottle to boil the water, BUT no matter how long i steam it for it still wants to splinter on the corners(they are tight bends) I made a jig to fit it into till it cools but when i take it out the bends split not break just splinter,I have not tried to do this before and could do with a bit of advice,PLEASE CD will post pic's tomorrow

Maybe some cane. Bamboo might work, too.

After a little thought, balsa is pretty easy to steam bend. I did a couple of pieces last year with good results.

Originally Posted by col's dad

I am trying to bend some very small(thin)timber to make bows for the canvas type roof for the packard, have made a steamer out of a tin can and a peice of copper pipe, and am useing a benzomatic gas bottle to boil the water, BUT no matter how long i steam it for it still wants to splinter on the corners(they are tight bends) I made a jig to fit it into till it cools but when i take it out the bends split not break just splinter,I have not tried to do this before and could do with a bit of advice,PLEASE CD will post pic's tomorrow

Found this lot which may help CD....Some are old Woodwork Forums thread....Cheers.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/21389
http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/ass...-of-Timber.pdf
http://www.vccaq.org/BendingTimber.pdf
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/be...e-please-9596/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f14/la...roject-142874/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f14/st...timber-151453/
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f14/steam-bending-1894/
HOW TO BEND WOOD

Hi I like the work you are doing CD,very delicate making them lamps,I have had a little experience in miniture wood bending I have found
that instead of steam for very tight turns I would leave the wood in near boiling water and keep it there for a good while and use a pr of round nose pliers to gently squeeze the place where you want to bend the timber while it is very hot and this usualy stops the splitting
and it depends a lot on what timber you use hope this is of some help.

Eddie

thanks Hermit, Eddie, I have got on to some fine cane,so I am going to give that a go,, Tomorrow (saturday /13th) I am going to Maffra to the auto museum, and will have a look at how the bows are arranged, on a real car so I can do it properly, here are a couple more pics of the dash <>seats<>and one bow attached.CD. I have not resprayed , it is just the different angel and light,