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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Burwood NSW
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    82
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    1,247

    Default even more bangles

    G'day
    Here is a new design I have developed combining wood and resin . Bangles are usually made from end grain timber . If made from crossgrain they would have two very weak points and may break .
    Blanks are usually rough cut when they are green and left to dry on the shelf .The blanks need to have one face fairly flat . Sometimes I will flatten the face on a belt sander .
    I mount the blank between the face of a chuck and the live centre and turn it down so's it will just fit neatly in my mould .I have three different size molds which are plastic screw top containers .
    The walls of the mold are slightly tappered but the blank should should be turned with straight sides .In this case the mold has a slight bump in the centre so I held the blank in a large chuck and bored a shallow hole so's the blank would fit neatly in the mold without rocking .I then turned the blank over in the chuck and , using the hole saw that I will latter use to bore out the bangle ,I bored a shallow groove .
    I then mounted the blank between a steb centre and the live centre .
    I then set up my router jig on the banjo , checked that the tail stock was tight and cut eight grooves to the depth of the hole saw groove using the indexing facility . I needed to do two passes with the router for the silky oak blanks and three for the camelia blanks .I then did a little bit of sanding to clean up the grooves .
    I give the mold a wipe with car polish which I think helps the casting to release .
    The blank was then put in the mold and epoxy resin poured in to just overfill the slots . A large nut wrapped in glad wrap stops the blank from floating, then into the pressure pot overnight .
    Next day I had to top up the resin then back in the pot overnight .
    Next day I remove the mold from the pot and leave it stand for at least another day to cure.
    I remove the casting by giving the top of the mold a hard bang on a solid surface .
    I screw a wooden chuck on the lathe and run a thin bead of hotmelt glue round the outer edge of the lower face of the casting and mount it on the chuck using the live centre to align it .
    After about 10 minutes, I bore out the centre with a hole saw .
    I then radius the edge and true up and sand as much of the outer rim as I can get to .
    Next I remove the bangle from the mounting by heating in a microwave oven .I find that heating will soften the resin so don't over do it . I find about one minute and 15 seconds is all it takes in my oven .
    I now mount the bangle in expansion mode in a chuck, using a strip of leather to protect the surface ,while I finish off the other edge . Sometimes it will not run dead true, but it is close enough that a bit of sanding will blend it all in . Because of the mounting method I use to turn the second side , a 20mm thick bangle is about the minimum thickness I can make .I usually make them 25-30mm.
    I hope this is of interest and it all makes sense .Some of these pictures got a bit out of order ,but I think you'll work it out .

    Comments welcome .
    Ted
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    Ted,

    when you used the indexing feature for the routing, was the router slid across free hand or on a sliding jig? I am looking at setting up something similar, especially as i am looking to9 get "dead set" accurate diameter turnings. a friend gifeted me with a spiral drive for a CNC which i am in the process of designing a way to incorporate on my lathe, via a sled on the bed system.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Burwood NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    1,247

    Default router

    Quote Originally Posted by Fumbler View Post
    Ted,

    when you used the indexing feature for the routing, was the router slid across free hand or on a sliding jig? I am looking at setting up something similar, especially as i am looking to9 get "dead set" accurate diameter turnings. a friend gifeted me with a spiral drive for a CNC which i am in the process of designing a way to incorporate on my lathe, via a sled on the bed system.

    In this case it was done freehand although I do have jigs where the router follows a fixed arc . Have a look at videos of John Lucas "using a router at the lathe"
    Ted

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