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Thread: Commercial casting project
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4th May 2012, 02:34 PM #76
Well I think you have advanced past what most of us are up to at this time I might suggest you look into buffing and compounds to do your finishing ,seems to be plenty of that sort of stuff around ( cars for instance do a lot of buffing in the finishing ) may need a few wheels to do what you want with different grades of polish compounds on each one , good luck with it though cheers ~ John
G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
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4th May 2012, 04:47 PM #77Member
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Cheers John. I was thinking along those lines for the actual polishing but its the rough to smooth sanding and going through the different grits thats time consuming. I have a fella looking into plastics polishing machine for me, whatever that is so we shall see what happens
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4th May 2012, 05:29 PM #78
I guess you may need to check how smooth you can get the original mold as well ,the smoother the better obviously "0000" steel wool is a good preliminary surface polisher there are various grades of buffing /cutting compounds that will take out scratches and imperfections in plastics and acrylics ,even the u-beaut triple eee is a fine cutting compound ! cheers ~ John
G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
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4th May 2012, 05:43 PM #79Member
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The old brasso works great but I reckon eee would be better. My moulds are very good as I make a timber master, pour it, then sand the PR cast to glass and then remould that as a new master. But the PR shrinks a bit and leaves a sort of spider web in places. Pretty right to start with 800 grit but the top shrinks the most and needs 220 grit to get it flat again
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5th May 2012, 10:03 PM #80Member
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Just discovered that WD40 works great as a release agent on PVC pipe with PR. Learning every day.
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5th May 2012, 10:41 PM #81
Just make sure you don't get any on anything you actually want casted in the PR
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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6th May 2012, 12:24 AM #82Member
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Like the in the pinkysil ? I had to use some 100 mm sewer pipe as a mould and from previous experience I knew I had to use something. I did 2 casts 1 with silicone spray and the other with WD40. Both worked but the WD40 was really good. No need with the pinkysil obviously
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5th June 2012, 10:33 PM #83043TURNING
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If your are looking to shred old moulds I use a hand mincer with course holes you get lots of little pellets.
Although you don't need a spray release - the heat from PR will eventually dry out the mould, causing it to become brittle and break appart with repeated use. By mixing vaso and white spirit this will create a super smooth eadge and gloss appearance on the casting... Itis also an excellent release agent preventing the mould from drying out over time..
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8th August 2012, 09:19 PM #84Member
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Hi all. Well its been a long time between posts - real work getting in the way. But, we have a product on the market which is selling. No secrets, no patents and a product that in no way resembles the original concept, which was ditched. I've just started doing bangles too to appeal to non - coffee nutters. I'd really like to thank all that showed guidance and encouragement.
Cheers,
Alex.
Ringtail Resincraft by RingtailResinCraft on Etsy
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8th August 2012, 10:35 PM #85SENIOR MEMBER
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Looking good Ringtail. I see you've shifted from the wood.
I've just finished reading the entire thread and see you have had quite a journey.
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9th August 2012, 06:16 PM #86
Just read it all myself too. You have a pretty comprehensive website. Hope it works out for you but I imagine the cheap china imports will be competition. Nevertheless, your resin making has worked out well. Perhaps you can put some tips up on here.
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11th August 2012, 01:47 PM #87Member
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Thanks guys. Yep, quite a journey but a great one too. There is nothing like my product ( tamper stands) in the world. They are impossible to mass produce - well the colour mixing anyway. I'm now starting to make bits for espresso machine porta filters - handles to be precise. There is a lot of timber after market ones out there and they are truly beautiful but not entirely fit for purpose IMO. A environment with steam, boiling water, heat, and force are not really pointing to long timber life. The resin is perfect for it. Just need a lathe now to turn my own blanks. Hmmm, timber or metal lathe ?
Any way, here is a pic of my first resin porta filter handle, moulded from a timber one a good mate turned for me. Colours are boring but for testing purposes it doesn't matter. The handle has a 75 mm long SS M12x1.75 bolt up the guts cast in situ. Its a cup head bolt with the head cut off but still retaining the square section. Heat is not a issue. The assembly sits in the machine all day and there is heat transfer up the handle from the bolt but the resin is barely warm to touch.
Cheers,
Alex.
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11th August 2012, 01:51 PM #88Member
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A pic of a blank ready for turning. Its 150 long and 48 D
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11th August 2012, 03:32 PM #89
Now you will have to take them onto the Inventors on the ABC to get some free nationwide advertising. Best of luck with the market.
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11th August 2012, 04:56 PM #90Member
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Thanks mate. Hardly invention status worthy Plenty of free marketing through Facebook and various coffee forums that I belong too.
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