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Thread: Conduit

  1. #16
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    For that I got 1kg of silicon and 1ltr of resin I think for $60 -$70. (With hardner for both)
    With your ribbon casting do you sand the ribbon before you cast it as the last one I did i didnt sand it and well if fell apart. You can try this site http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/catalogue/
    David
    giveitagoturning @hotmail.com

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dj_pnevans View Post
    For that I got 1kg of silicon and 1ltr of resin I think for $60 -$70. (With hardner for both)
    With your ribbon casting do you sand the ribbon before you cast it as the last one I did i didnt sand it and well if fell apart. You can try this site http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/catalogue/
    David
    Thanks, they are a Barnes reseller and dearer than Barnes! (oh, and Adelaide is 700k from Bendigo! - used to live there)

    Adhesion is a definite problem with ribbon casting, dropped a ribbon cast blank today and it broke at the ribbon interface in about 3 or 4 places!

    Still trying to perfect that technique, I think undercuring is the answer, but they become a pig to handle!

  4. #18
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    The one I was doing had real good color to, but I will keep on doing it.
    David
    giveitagoturning @hotmail.com

  5. #19
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    If you are using PR, PVC works great. No release needed, they slide right out. No need for this post curing thing everyone thinks does something. Once it's cured, it's cured. The only part that remains tacky is the exposed surface and it gets turned off anyway. Mine aren't tacky after cured.
    Have fun.

  6. #20
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    I have had no problems using 20mm electrical conduit. If they don't just fall out when cured tap on a piece of timber or use compressed air. Great moulds

    Attachment 111031Attachment 111032

  7. #21
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    Mornin' Sam, good to see you back, place hasn't been the same without you

    All settled in the new place now?

    Must try that conduit, looks good for some of the simpler blanks, I suppose the orange exterior grade would work as well?

    Come to think of it, I have used some of the 50mm exterior conduit to make PR blanks for some knobs for jigs etc.

  8. #22
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    conduit works then, got me some, 20mm & 25mm

    do you pour all the way to the top or do you leave and inch or so for expansion

    is just presuure OK or do you really need to vacuum as well

    i like the rack you have the tubes standing in Sam, are the holes just a tight fit to the tube or do you put bungs in the bottoms of the tubes as well

    thanks for all the advice/help

  9. #23
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    Put a bit of plastic wrap on the bottom or it will be hard to pull away from the timber. If you give it a bit of a bang on the bench to this will help the air out.
    David
    giveitagoturning @hotmail.com

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by dj_pnevans View Post
    Put a bit of plastic wrap on the bottom or it will be hard to pull away from the timber. If you give it a bit of a bang on the bench to this will help the air out.
    David
    That's the way to go I don't even use the pressure pot or vacuum. After the first poor all the space is filled up and no more leaking. if you place on a bench and then run the orbital sander beside it it will vibrate all the bubbles out.

    Thanks Fred, not in yet the first place failed building inspection, not good for a new construction. Signed a contract for another last week and expect it will take another 6 weeks to settle. Iwill have worn out the BIL by then.

    Still on limited internet till we get settled have purchased a laptop to keep me in the loop

  11. #25
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    thanks for all the answers, just waiting for the colorings to turn up hopefully tomorrow and i will be off and running

    when do multi color pours i was thinking that you should just pour all the colors into the tubes at once, would this be right or is this a trade secret

    i can't seem to find much at all on different ways to get results

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MBUMIK View Post
    when do multi color pours i was thinking that you should just pour all the colors into the tubes at once, would this be right or is this a trade secret

    i can't seem to find much at all on different ways to get results
    No trade secret we are all hear to help. I would use a boxed mold to do multi color. You can poor them together, but I find if you poor one color first then poor the next and get a stick and stir gently if you stir to much the colors with mix in together and end up with a mess. If you get on youtube you will find videos on how to do it. But in saying this if you use a tube you can do the same but us a longer stick. I find doing this is a good way to spend in the shed I don’t buy my blanks any more.
    David
    giveitagoturning @hotmail.com

  13. #27
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    thanks dave, the trade secret crack was attempted humour

    i am looking through youtube at the minute, watching grub32 go about his craft

    i have ordered some powdered paint and some pearlex for colorings, looking forward to them arriving, they will probably get here tomorrow because i can't do anything until tuesday night

    to much to play with and work just gets in the way

  14. #28
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    With the powdered paint dont use to much as it my not set. Pearlex is the stuff to use but I still use powdered paint. I use a paddle pop stick and put a small amount on it mix it and then put some on the stick if I can see the stick under then mix then I put more power in it. This save's seeing the tube later. Where are you getting your pearlex from?
    David
    giveitagoturning @hotmail.com

  15. #29
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    i got some on ebay cheaper than i found it anywhere else, series 1 and series 2 sets for $60 delivered, thats total not each set, see how it goes and then fill up on individual colors from there on

    there is also someone selling mica powder pretty cheap as well on ebay, just waiting to see how i like the casting bit, no use jumping in boots and all to find out i don't like it

    is there somewhere to buy pearlex at a good price???

  16. #30
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    Same place as you.
    David
    giveitagoturning @hotmail.com

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