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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Mt Druitt NSW
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    518

    Default Hardening Timber to prevent crackig

    Hi
    I need to make a thin spacer from Black Walnut which goes between the stock and the recoil pad of my 12g. The problem is that the grain needs to match the original stock, so it runs along horizontal, therefore I dont want to show any end grain in the spacer. The spacer will be 15mm thick so I'm wondering if there are any products which will bind the wood fibres so that the spacer wont crack easily yet wont look like a plastic finish over the wood surface.

    Mark
    ______________
    Mark
    They only call it a rort if they're not in on it

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    East Warburton, Vic
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    Default

    Cactus Juice would probably the job.

    I’m going to move your thread over to Pen Turning Casting and stabilising section as you’ll get a better audience there.
    Cheers

    DJ


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  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    4,470

    Default

    Make the spacer a accent piece instead of trying to hide it this will make fitting a lot less of a problem, unless you have a piece of the original stock you will not hide it anyway.
    You may want to post here for some other opinions. GUNSMITHING

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Mt Druitt NSW
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    Default

    Hi China,
    Thanks for the advice on making the spacer a feature but this was always going to be the case. American Black Walnut in a grade 4 equivalent to my stock is just not found in Sydney and even then an equivalent grade is likely to have a totally different colour. Irrespective of what wood I use even if its a fully different species and how I treat it, the grain direction must match the stock therefore leaving me with a delicate waffer of wood that may crack when installing the recoil pad screws.
    ______________
    Mark
    They only call it a rort if they're not in on it

  6. #5
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    Dec 2005
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    South Australia
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    Default

    I do not see why the grain needs to run in the same direction as the stock

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    489

    Default

    I would bore the spacer holes as clearance holes rather than have the threads bite into the wood. A couple of fine brad nails should keep the spacer in place (unless you use some sort of adhesive) while you mark out the holes for the butt pad or butt plate and when that's screwed down everything will stay in it's place.

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