Thread: Label Casting ?

Originally Posted by schaf

When you cast labels,is there a certain software program that is used to print the label to the correct size for your tube.
Any help or advise please.

Terry

I know what type of resolution I want to print at, so I start there and work backwards.
I have a decent printer that does 300dpi, so I measure the length and width of the tube ,
multiply by 300 and that's how many pixels I have to work with.

For instance, the Wall St II tube in my hand (Sierra type) is 2.213" long.
The OD is .385

2.213 x 300 = 663.9. Round that off to 664 pixels for the image, but add a few pixels
for the image to be oversized unless you're absolutely positive you can put the label
on perfectly straight and perfectly centered. Even machines can't do it perfectly, so I'd
round it off to 700. (30 pixels = 1/10 of an inch, so we're not adding much)

.385 x 300 = 115.5 and at 300 dpi, that's a little more than 1/3 of an inch. This smaller
dimension is what gets wrapped AROUND the tube (the longer one lays along the
length of the tube) and you need to include some overlap so that the adhesive will be
grabbing onto the label. (again, unless you can do it perfectly..)
so let's call it 170 pixels.

So in your image editing software, create a 'New' document that is 700 x 170 pixels.
This is the size you can put your images into, whether text or graphics. Leave about
30 to 40 pixels at the top for your overlap. This part will be applied to the label first, so
that your image will roll over it and hide it.. but you still get overlap to hold the label
securely.

Save this image as a template for later labels. I saved mine as "Sierra Template" and I
have dozens of them for different types .. Cigar Top, Cigar Bottom etc..

When I want to create a new label, I open the template, go get some graphics and then
I copy them to the clipboard and then use "Paste Into" in the editing program. It drops
the graphics into the template and then I can resize, move, rotate etc. as necessary

Just make sure not to use the Save function anymore ,or you'll overwrite your template.
Use "Save As" and rename it.

Originally Posted by NewLondon88

I know what type of resolution I want to print at, so I start there and work backwards.
I have a decent printer that does 300dpi, so I measure the length and width of the tube ,
multiply by 300 and that's how many pixels I have to work with.

For instance, the Wall St II tube in my hand (Sierra type) is 2.213" long.
The OD is .385

2.213 x 300 = 663.9. Round that off to 664 pixels for the image, but add a few pixels
for the image to be oversized unless you're absolutely positive you can put the label
on perfectly straight and perfectly centered. Even machines can't do it perfectly, so I'd
round it off to 700. (30 pixels = 1/10 of an inch, so we're not adding much)

.385 x 300 = 115.5 and at 300 dpi, that's a little more than 1/3 of an inch. This smaller
dimension is what gets wrapped AROUND the tube (the longer one lays along the
length of the tube) and you need to include some overlap so that the adhesive will be
grabbing onto the label. (again, unless you can do it perfectly..)
so let's call it 170 pixels.

So in your image editing software, create a 'New' document that is 700 x 170 pixels.
This is the size you can put your images into, whether text or graphics. Leave about
30 to 40 pixels at the top for your overlap. This part will be applied to the label first, so
that your image will roll over it and hide it.. but you still get overlap to hold the label
securely.

Save this image as a template for later labels. I saved mine as "Sierra Template" and I
have dozens of them for different types .. Cigar Top, Cigar Bottom etc..

When I want to create a new label, I open the template, go get some graphics and then
I copy them to the clipboard and then use "Paste Into" in the editing program. It drops
the graphics into the template and then I can resize, move, rotate etc. as necessary

Just make sure not to use the Save function anymore ,or you'll overwrite your template.
Use "Save As" and rename it.

That is actually very good info and have saved this. May I ask what printer do you have??? I recently bought a new computer and am in the market for a printer for it. The one I have now will not work with the program on there and there is no new drivers for it to update it so I am stuck with getting a new one anyway. Thanks for the reply.

Originally Posted by JTTHECLOCKMAN

That is actually very good info and have saved this. May I ask what printer do you have??? I recently bought a new computer and am in the market for a printer for it. The one I have now will not work with the program on there and there is no new drivers for it to update it so I am stuck with getting a new one anyway. Thanks for the reply.

I've got printers all over the place. Right in front of me, I've got an HP laserjet, Photosmart,
an old Alps (took a few weeks to find THAT driver!) and an older pro deskjet that does
13x19. Down in the shop there's several more, including a barely used Pictrography 4000 II that I just picked up a few weeks back. I had one years ago, got it on sale at a trade
show for $16.500. Now I see them on Ebay for pennies.. That one works on photo paper
and writes with laser diode. great resolution.
But the labels I've tried so far were on the Photosmart and Alps. I had someone else try
the labels and they also had bubble problems, so I don't feel as bad.

Thanks Newlondon for the detailed explanation. That is exactly what I was trying to understand.

Terry

Wow .. I just re-read what I typed and I left out part of it!

If anyone followed those instructions, they'd have a label that didn't wrap around
the tube completely.

The OD (outer diameter) of the tube is multiplied by pi (3.14 approx) a. So .385 x 3.14 is
1.2089. So 1.2089 is the circumference of the tube and that's the area that needs to
be covered by the label. I add about 5mm for overlap of the label. (Sorry to mix inches
and millimeters .. let's call it 50 more pixels)

So 1.2089 inches times 300 dpi (that's the printer resolution) is 362.67 pixels. Add the
50 pixels for overlap and round it off.. call it 412 pixels.

Sorry about leaving that out .. I don't know what I was thinking, I do it all the time,
so it isn't like it is something new to me.
Perhaps I deleted it when I was doing cut/paste? I dunno

Originally Posted by mag

... some new Photo Quality stickers I bought from Ebay...

Are these the ones you are talking about?

Well done New London i have been reading and reading all the treads and found youre info to be great. can you explain a little more to me about the actual labels that you use? I know you said Avery85xx but I may be a little thick in still not understanding the sizing. I appreciate all your info and am trying to work out how best to attempt some label casting. I have no ideas at first just would like to have a go a making somthing.

Thanks again Ian

The Avery labels are numbered.. each style has it's own number. For instance
(checking what's here by my printer) the #8165 labels are 8.5x11 white labels for
inkjet printers. They're heavier white so that dark colors don't bleed through.
#8254 is white matte inkjet labels 3.5x4" 6 to a sheet. #8664 is the EZ-Peel
Clear labels, 3.3x4 for laser ..#8962 is white matte DVD labels for inkjet. etc. etc.

I haven't 'cracked their code' but the 4 digit label number probably refers to
size, color, material and whether the labels are for inkjet or laser printers.

People have had good luck with the 85xx (xx meaning the last two digits very
depending on size and inkjet/laser) Could be 8565 or 8564 .. depends on what
you want. Stores here that carry the Avery labels usually have an aisle for them,
since there's so many. (Avery.com)

There may be something about this particular label number, perhaps the adhesive
used, or perhaps the particular thickness of the label.. that helps them hold onto
the tubes a little better than some others. I'm not sure. Label casting is still
fairly new, and I don't do it every day.

I've also had good luck with the generic labels from an office supply chain
store we have here called Staples. They have a full sheet of sticky backed
material they just call Sticker Paper. Full sheet means you don't have to worry
about your layout when printing. The individual peel-off labels could mean that
your artwork runs right off the edge of the label and onto the next label on the
sheet. I hate that..
These labels seem to hold UNLESS you're doing full bleed on an ALPS printer.
Then the adhesive pulls off the dry ink where it overlaps. Perhaps the grip of the
adhesive is stronger than the grip of the dry ink..

Anyway, hope this helps. Feel free to pass along more questions and if I don't
know the answer, I'll just make one up.

Thanks New London your help is much appreciated and i am looking forward to having a go at this.
I look forward to any other info you have to offer.

Cheers Ian

Hi All,

I have read this thread from start to end and found it to be a pretty good read so hence the resurrection.
Has there been any further development since?? Labels, label types, step by step method, even best method on how to float the decal from the backing, to sealers now being used, as well as best casting process.
I sometime ago bought some clear decals from Decal Paper as suggested by another forum member and thought I would print out a couple of labels to try. I managed to get the sizing of the print right and the size of the label to suit the tube. But the ink run off the decal when I floated it in the water to remove it from the backing I guess I missed sealing it first ? Pretty keen to give this a go, but got no where today Any help or updates appreciated.

Cheers
Tony.

Your right Tony, you need to seal the print before soaking, I use clear acrylic spray from Supercheap ,a couple of coats may be needed but it stops the ink running , the transfers wont lift off the backing ,you wait till they are ready to slide ,then position the decal on the pen where you want it and gently slide it off the backing ,once started you can hold the picture on the pen and finish sliding the backing away ,you can still reposition and using your finger to smooth out the wet transfer .let it dry and another coat or 2 of clear will do the trick , quicker to do than type it up lol. Cheers ~ John

Originally Posted by AuS MaDDoG

... I guess I missed sealing it first ? ...

I always found reading the instructions works well . Of course it has never happened to me

Originally Posted by AuS MaDDoG

Hi All,

I have read this thread from start to end and found it to be a pretty good read so hence the resurrection.
Has there been any further development since?? Labels, label types, step by step method, even best method on how to float the decal from the backing, to sealers now being used, as well as best casting process.
I sometime ago bought some clear decals from Decal Paper as suggested by another forum member and thought I would print out a couple of labels to try. I managed to get the sizing of the print right and the size of the label to suit the tube. But the ink run off the decal when I floated it in the water to remove it from the backing I guess I missed sealing it first ? Pretty keen to give this a go, but got no where today Any help or updates appreciated.

Cheers
Tony.

Sorry Tony, I didn't mention the sealing, John does exactly the same as I do.


undies