Thread: Label casting - Avery 8255 equivalent in Australia?

Russell

From memory you are on the right track I did contact Avery and they gave me the Australian Equivalent but lord knows where I stored the info know it was over a year gao and I have trouble remembering after 30 seconds.

The Avery labels look pretty much like a standard matt inkjet label stock - so I'd imagine just about any off the shelf inkjet label would work. The main things you are after are thickness and opacity.

There are a couple of synthetic stocks available - the main ones being Yupo and Teslin. Yupo you might recognise if you've ever received an untearable - enveloped parcel or have any of those disposable spraypainter's overalls. Yupo isnt all that good for consumer level printing.

Teslin is available in self-adhesive format, and it has the bonus of being laserprinter compatible as well as inkjet compatible...however I'm not sure how it would cope with being dropped into resin - the solvents might cause it to wrinkle at the least.

I'd suggest doing away with the need for self adhesive label stock - just secure the printed label with a light smear of CA. This means you can use thicker paper stock so you don't get the paper colour shifting when wet with resin - it also means you can go wild and use some of the funky custom hand made papers or some of the really good art papers.

Labels are typically an A3 quality paper, while your really expensive photo books are printed on an A1+ stock (the A1 and A3 have nothing to do with paper size in this example...A's are used to denote paper quality as well!) so you may be able to achieve some impressive results. Or some big sticky messes!

Note...I know absolutely nothing about paper casting for pens, but a fair bit about paper so feel free to slap me around if I'm sounding like an idiot here!!

Thanks Master Splinter, that's interesting info.

I have a local (Brissy) company sending me some samples of their label types. Some of the IAP people reported the labels peeling after embedding with "lower quality" avery labels, and they;re reporting good results with the 82xx series, hence my question. Main issue other than that seems to be transparency, so as you say, using normal thicker paper stock may be a goes, if you can get it to adhere properly.

Will explore a few avenues and see what sort of results I get. I need to find some stoppers or something for the tubes before I can try and label casting anyway, and get a mould made up for doing them, so will be a little bit before I can try.

Russell.

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

I'd suggest doing away with the need for self adhesive label stock - just secure the printed label with a light smear of CA. This means you can use thicker paper stock so you don't get the paper colour shifting when wet with resin - it also means you can go wild and use some of the funky custom hand made papers or some of the really good art papers.

Well I've tried gluing non-sticky labels.

I have some 90gsm "Brilliant White" inkjet paper and some 170gsm "Everyday Glossy Photo Paper".

I have a fundamental problem with gluing your own - how to keep the glue mess between the brass & the paper. trying to roll the paper around the brass with glue in there somewhere, it's inevitably getting on my fingers and making a mess of the print surface.

I almost got the photo stock wrapped with CA, but had used Sharpie on the brass to colour it. Guess what - CA dissolves permanent marker ink, which ended up on my finger tips, which ended up on the front of the image

So I tried the 90gsm stuff with spray adhesive on the back of the paper, and on the tube. It worked pretty well, except once again, some of the adhesive ended on the front of the label, and me trying to rub the seam down flat, and not having spotless hands, some of the dirt stuck to the adhesive and marred the image again. I've read to have some overlap for best results with hiding the seam, but from what i could see from that attempt, the seam is still going to show.

I may try again with spray adhesive, but the 90gsm doesn't give as crisp an image as the 170gsm, and I'm not sure the spray adhesive will be strong enough to hold down the heavier paper, especially at the edges where it's hard to get a good bend, without the image crinkling.

Has anyone else successfully glued their own papers, instead of using self-adhesive labels? Any suggestions on how to glue with good coverage on the brass, but no coverage on me?

Russell.

No idea what you are trying to do hehe, but me I would try to roll the paper on a smaller diamater to preform the curl a bit ,if you are covering the tubes with paper why paint the tubes? also don/t know how you would do it but maybe feather the edges of the paper a bit so you can disguise the slight overlap, a bit like joining a broken bandsaw. all good though you will find a way I am sure

I think the main reason for using the Avery 82xx series is the glue backing won't
break down when it is wet by the resin. As Russ mentioned, others have found that
the resin reacts with the glues and the glue softens. Now your pen can come apart.

Here's a couple of pics of the stoppers. I got them at a fabric store. They go on the ends
of knitting needles so you don't 'put an eye out' or stab a loved one, I guess.
Also here's a few tubes, and some reject tubes that didn't work out for one reason or
another. But at least gawdelpus can see what we're going for.

Dark green stoppers are good for the base of the tubes (if you cast vertical)
The purple ones are good for the Jr Gent, Statesman or other pen tubes of
that size. The bright green ones are good for cigars, slims etc. They push in
good and tight, so you can pour the resin right over them and not worry about it
getting inside the tubes. As long as you've used a release, you just pop them out
and then put the blank on your bushings after you mill / sand the ends to size.

I've seen some great examples,but I'm still working on it myself. I pick up my first
pressure pot tomorrow..

Originally Posted by gawdelpus

No idea what you are trying to do hehe, but me I would try to roll the paper on a smaller diamater to preform the curl a bit ,if you are covering the tubes with paper why paint the tubes? also don/t know how you would do it but maybe feather the edges of the paper a bit so you can disguise the slight overlap, a bit like joining a broken bandsaw. all good though you will find a way I am sure

Yup, been rolling. Works OK with the thinner stuff, still no go with the thicker.

Painting helps if the paper goes transparent, and to help cover any misalignments - not that there should be any if done right. As for feathering, problelm would be the feathering would be 3D and float up, making it visible instead of being flat.

I just found some old A4 Flouro ornage labels I had from when I used to do some jobs for a video store. tried printing on one - doesn't like the ink it seems, spread everywhere. I also have an old box of avery labels, and the sticky has all worn out, they're just falling off the paper *sigh*. Back to square one.

Russell.

Russell.

Originally Posted by NewLondon88

Also here's a few tubes, and some reject tubes that didn't work out for one reason oranother. But at least gawdelpus can see what we're going for.

Yeah my bad for not explaining, thanks mate.

Hey, that Steinway flat label in your image looks pretty thick. Is that a label, or are you rolling thick card or something?

Russell.

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Yeah my bad for not explaining, thanks mate.

Hey, that Steinway flat label in your image looks pretty thick. Is that a label, or are you rolling thick card or something?

Russell.

That's the label before it is pulled off of the backing. It's fairly thin when peeled apart.
I make mine with a little bit of overlap and trim after I apply it. (It isn't easy to get them on
perfectly straight by eye.. well, MY eye )

I've also found that rolling it on a spongy mouse pad works well.

I still don't have all the equipment I need, and these tests aren't coming out the way
I'd like.
I'm starting to think 50-60 coats of thick CA might work better. HA!!

These should be OK for plugging the tubes http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-x-0-Rubber...2em118Q2el1247

Liked your thread on IAP NL ggod stuff.

Originally Posted by Simomatra

These should be OK for plugging the tubes http://cgi.ebay.com.au/10-x-0-Rubber...2em118Q2el1247

Liked your thread on IAP NL ggod stuff.

I saw those, but at $1 each, that isn't real cheap. Are they definitely easy enough to get out of the resin afterwards?

Russell.

Russell I can't find them at the moment I got 100 from the US at a eBay tattoo site for a small amount of money just keep searching eBay and yes they come out as they are silicone.

Originally Posted by Simomatra

Russell I can't find them at the moment I got 100 from the US at a eBay tattoo site for a small amount of money just keep searching eBay and yes they come out as they are silicone.

Yes, I found his store the other day. Not easy to find as they're listed as "rubber corks". I'm just saving for those, as exchange rate being what it is, it's about 20 for the pack, and I'm afraid I'm in a bit of a financial crisis for the next couple of weeks, so it's the bare necessities only atm.

Unless there's a few people here who want to share the bundle? I only want about 30, so if anyone else is interested in some or all of the other 70, at say 0.15c each + postage (I reckon $5 - $6 probably), tehn maybe we could do it that way?

I assume this is the one you mean

http://cgi.ebay.com/100-pcs-RUBBER-C...QQcmdZViewItem

Russell.

That them Russell