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6th December 2012, 12:51 AM #1Member
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Vacuume stabilization with plexiglas and acetone help.
Had a play with this over the last week on some very soft spalted walnut.
Used the heat and cool method to create pressure, heated the soup with hot water till boiling point and sealed the jar. Chucked it in the fridge overnight, released the pressure and let sit till the blanks sank.
Average uptake was around 2.8g after a few days drying and it now turns great with no tear out.
I have a vac pump coming and want to build a chamber for ease and maybe safety. Am I going to get better penetration using a vac system? If so how much more should these take up? I assume I can re treat the ones I have already done.
It was surprising the amount of moisture and tannin they released, they were dark ugly looking pieces which now have a nice dark honey colour which lets the spalting show off better. There was a surprising amount of water released.
Has anyone tried pressure curing wood like you would freeze dry food? I am wondering if this would give a completely dry blank to work with before stabilization or is this common practice?
The pump will go to 75 Hg, I am hoping it is enough to make them workable and waterproof.
I have a pressure pot laying around the shed or there is the old masons jar trick.
What sort of Hg should I be aiming for? 20-25? Or alot more.
Im new here so plenty of questions.
Cheers.
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6th December 2012, 11:04 AM #2
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10th December 2012, 02:14 AM #3Member
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Had some more time with the vac and am no more further advanced, yes I have used the search function, and google for many hours.
It seems this method will strip tannins and colour. It also dries them to crisp.
I have had good results with the soft spalted timber, it now turns very easily but on second treatment, more to see how much air I have missed it seems to be alot of air.
If treating 3 or more times to get a good solid piece this is not for me, is there a once off treatment that will give larger cracks and imperfections a filled look? Or actually fill them?
Tested a few bits with .5-1mm borer holes and it seems to only cover the edges of them.
Rosewood looks like it has been bleached and I'm not happy about that.
Can I use fibreglass resin or will I get the same bleaching problem? Will FG resin fill in the cracks better?
Could I use spar varnish? Obviously a slower drying time And entering time but I could bag them to hold it in as it dried??
I can do 12 at a time without issues so spar would be a cheap alternative but I don't want to try it unless someone has had some results.
Looking for an easy way to waterproof I can do at home and relatively decent result, ATM I'm not happy with the acetone/plexiglas method, they are not waterproof.
Any and all help apreciated.
Thanks.
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10th December 2012, 02:37 AM #4
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30th December 2012, 12:52 PM #5
One thing to be careful about.. putting acetone under vacuum will make it boil
pretty quickly, but also the fumes can attack seals inside the vacuum pump and
cause it to fail.
.. just something to watch out formaker of the original ResinSaver mold
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1st January 2013, 01:18 AM #6Member
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I'm wanting to waterproof more than anything, as a stabiliser for some of the punky wood I have it worked a treat. The aim of the game is to use these on fishing rods so waterproofing is essential. Reels knock finish of reel seats so just finishing with spar or similar is not good enough. The wood needs to be impregnated or so dense it will not take up water. It seems alot of the nice pretty stuff is softer and needs to be treated. I suppose companies like struble and golden witch use the timbers they do for their water repelling/density qualities but I won't be beaten yet and will keep trying till I find a way to waterproof.
I think I traded terms ie. waterproof/ stabilise. To me it's the same thing for the application, impregnating to harden and fill voids??
The spalted oak I treated is waterproof with just the above treatment, the harder denser woods are not, maybe I have just not the same penetration on the harder timbers. Even a couple of mm of uniform penetration would give the desired effect.
I have spent too many hours on this project trialling rods, guide spacings and components for these beautiful fishing tools to be beaten so to speak in the wooden reels seat. Many if not most manufacturers use un treated wood and are beaten the first time the rod is dunked in water, I don't want the same issues I have tried to learn from the big manufacturers mistakes and fix a relatively easy problem. The next step would be sending select wood overseas to be treated and it will be costly to do so, especially in the small volumes I require.
Cheers
Dean.
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1st January 2013, 02:45 PM #7
You could use the epoxy stabilizer, available from Fibreglass International and marine stockists (not cheap), a 2 part thin epoxy penetrating resin. It takes a while to go off completely, around a week at depth, resulting in a flexible hard rubber like finish. You can certainly use this stuff under vacuum to help with the penetration.
If just waterproofing is your priority you could use a CA finish. Soak it with the thin stuff to start with, to ensure it penetrates the wood, then building up the layers with thick before sanding and buffing back.
People have been making fishing reels for a long time without stabilizing. I have a few of my fathers here, one cedar and another hardwood both finished with marine varnish, he used to cut them back and refinish every few years.
You could also use something like Crows Ash (Australian Teak), a naturally oily timber, or something similar.
Good luck with it.Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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