Thread: Monthly Pen thing

you be right take your time the angle is acheivable well I hope it is
bye Toni

Thats some pen,the repeating of the shape at the top ingeneous,how will you keep the brass shiny? Glad the burl arrived ok,to me you do not need help with cartridges. Peter

Thanks Peter

I think the antler is the biggest challenge.

Hope fully by sealing the metal it will stay that way till it chips or scratches. Using the same tech as keeping service brass clean

remember when doing antler wear breathing protection. some people have got serious respiratory so wear a mask please
Toni

Mine finally turned up today, nice bit of burl and antler will be interesting

So do we treat it like wood?

I tried (disastrously) some time back turning one of those plastic blanks. Never have touched one again - haven't a clue how to approach it. Hope the antler isn't in the same ballpark.

Originally Posted by lubbing5cherubs

Gidday Stirlo,
go here to read this is a tutorial doing a bullet in the size that I have sent out. I know you are a member here so you should have no problems

http://www.thepenshop.net/forum/foru...?TID=4692&PN=1
bye Toni

ta toni

I do not sure if your are suppose to though
Toni

Originally Posted by Stuart.

So do we treat it like wood?

Yes. But treat it as though it's expensive wood. ie. Take a bit of care!

A mid-cure Epoxy or PolyU glue is best for the tube, and keep your tools sharp. The outside is hard'n'tough but the innards are softer and more porous, so don't be too agressive with the tool. (Sometimes I don't notice any difference, on other pieces it's like breaking through into cheddar cheese.)

Because it's porous inside, be extremely careful if you need to sand so that you don't end up with dark sanding grit clogging the pores. Yuck! I don't recommend using EEE, either. One way to "work around" this is to give it a coat of CA & accelerator to seal the pores before sanding. To finish, another coat of CA, although personally I prefer a light wash of Rustin's Plastic Finish. I haven't tried Shellawax on antler yet, maybe I 'll give it a go this time.

I think that covers most of it... ?

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Yes. But treat it as though it's expensive wood. ie. Take a bit of care!......and keep your tools sharp.

I other words, I better leave it very much alone until I can at least get some sharpening practice in. Waiting for Triton's waterwheel, as my current grinder is incredibly aggressive (and fast), and my tools look like a dog's breakfast.

Originally Posted by Stuart.

Waiting for Triton's waterwheel..

Hope you don't intend to sharpen HSS chisels on a water wheel, doesn't work well, the chisels tend to sharpen the wheel .

See, told you I don't know what the #### I'm doing.

So what do you sharpen on a waterwheel? I was hoping it was for sharpening chisels, as all my things that need sharpening are HSS (or maybe they are not - what are marples chisels made of?)

And for making a new plane blade live, one which is HSS, and the other is cryogenic steel. Is there any point to a water wheel then?

I bought a water wheel before I joined the forum and found out the hard way for the HSS turning chisels, haven't used it since.

Flat wood chisels and plane blades are Ok I believe, the rounded shape of the turning chisels certainly cause damage to the water wheel. Perhaps someone else can shed some more light, I'm afraid I am no expert either. I now have a variable speed blue wheel, timber wheel and buffing wheel to sharpen the turning chisels see here based on sharpening demos put on by this forum.

Feelin' my poor chisels will never be sharp again