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Thread: Monthly Pen thing
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18th January 2007, 07:07 PM #61
Yay - they arrived. what have I let myself in for Especially the curved antler.
"Clear, Ease Springs"
www.Stu's Shed.com
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18th January 2007, 08:30 PM #62
you be right take your time the angle is acheivable well I hope it is
bye Toni
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18th January 2007, 08:39 PM #63
Sam
Thats some pen,the repeating of the shape at the top ingeneous,how will you keep the brass shiny? Glad the burl arrived ok,to me you do not need help with cartridges. Peter
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19th January 2007, 09:20 AM #64
Thanks Peter
I think the antler is the biggest challenge.
Hope fully by sealing the metal it will stay that way till it chips or scratches. Using the same tech as keeping service brass clean
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19th January 2007, 11:08 AM #65
remember when doing antler wear breathing protection. some people have got serious respiratory so wear a mask please
Toni
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19th January 2007, 12:39 PM #66
Mine finally turned up today, nice bit of burl and antler will be interesting
Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
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19th January 2007, 01:15 PM #67
So do we treat it like wood?
I tried (disastrously) some time back turning one of those plastic blanks. Never have touched one again - haven't a clue how to approach it. Hope the antler isn't in the same ballpark."Clear, Ease Springs"
www.Stu's Shed.com
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19th January 2007, 01:29 PM #68You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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19th January 2007, 01:56 PM #69
I do not sure if your are suppose to though
Toni
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19th January 2007, 06:36 PM #70
Yes. But treat it as though it's expensive wood. ie. Take a bit of care!
A mid-cure Epoxy or PolyU glue is best for the tube, and keep your tools sharp. The outside is hard'n'tough but the innards are softer and more porous, so don't be too agressive with the tool. (Sometimes I don't notice any difference, on other pieces it's like breaking through into cheddar cheese.)
Because it's porous inside, be extremely careful if you need to sand so that you don't end up with dark sanding grit clogging the pores. Yuck! I don't recommend using EEE, either. One way to "work around" this is to give it a coat of CA & accelerator to seal the pores before sanding. To finish, another coat of CA, although personally I prefer a light wash of Rustin's Plastic Finish. I haven't tried Shellawax on antler yet, maybe I 'll give it a go this time.
I think that covers most of it... ?
- Andy Mc
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19th January 2007, 09:19 PM #71
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19th January 2007, 09:30 PM #72
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19th January 2007, 09:53 PM #73
See, told you I don't know what the #### I'm doing.
So what do you sharpen on a waterwheel? I was hoping it was for sharpening chisels, as all my things that need sharpening are HSS (or maybe they are not - what are marples chisels made of?)
And for making a new plane blade live, one which is HSS, and the other is cryogenic steel. Is there any point to a water wheel then?"Clear, Ease Springs"
www.Stu's Shed.com
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19th January 2007, 11:06 PM #74
I bought a water wheel before I joined the forum and found out the hard way for the HSS turning chisels, haven't used it since.
Flat wood chisels and plane blades are Ok I believe, the rounded shape of the turning chisels certainly cause damage to the water wheel. Perhaps someone else can shed some more light, I'm afraid I am no expert either. I now have a variable speed blue wheel, timber wheel and buffing wheel to sharpen the turning chisels see here based on sharpening demos put on by this forum.Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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19th January 2007, 11:34 PM #75
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