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  1. #1
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    Mar 2009
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    Question Advice please: workbench surface for mechanical/fabrication type work

    Hi Folks,

    I finally have some space available to put a real workbench in the garage, I want to do this one properly (well, at least decently) so I thought I would ask for some advice here.

    I will mainly be working on motorbikes so the heaviest thing that may need to be supported will be small engines weighing around 40kg up to 100kg max.

    I already have a small bench that uses something like a 10mm MDF top, which works but is a bit too flexy for my liking.

    For this big bench I am thinking of just going for a simple pallet racking type bench, around 2,600mm long by 840mm deep. I am thinking that 30mm MDF should do fine, has anyone else done similar? Or are there better options?

    Then there is the question of whether or not it will be easy to have sheets cut to that size? Can anyone recommend the best place in Brisbane to look?

    Also for the MDF would you recommend painting/coating it with anything to make it more durable and easier to wipe up oil, grease etc.?

    That's all I can think of at the moment, but tips & advice are appreciated.

    Thanks a bunch!

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  3. #2
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    Simple answer MDF is not a good choice for this type of work even sealed it'll soak up any spill and crumble. I'd cover it with a sheet of light gauge metal Zinc or plain sheet steel folded around the edges of the MDF I have used this in many a workshop for lite work.

    Ideal would be steel frame with 16 gauge plate top (sorry old world) would out last you possibly.

  4. #3
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    What he said. Cover it with something easily replaced after too much distress. Nails or screws, no glue.

    Cheers,
    Joe
    Of course truth is stranger than fiction.
    Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain

  5. #4
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    Apr 2012
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    the pallet rack benches I've seen lack cross supports, so if you go down that path I'd be looking at a way of stiffening the MDF top. One way is to construct a "Mr Sawdust" top, copying the style that Wally Kunkel designed for radial arm saws. This is done by laminating two sheets together, with steel flat bar epoxied into grooves cut in the sheets. I've built one for my radial saw with 2 sheets of 18mm MDF and 20x3 gal flatbar, and it is incredibly stiff.

    For your use, I would be more inclined to use formply than MDF. It's stiff and strong, and the phenolic resin coating makes it far more resistant to moisture and spills.

    A zincanneal or galvabond cover sheet as recommended above would be my choice as well.

  6. #5
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    Cheers for those tips. I'll investigate those options...

    16 gauge steel - that would be around 1.5mm thick?

    This is the sort of frame I'm looking at:



    So something like that would need some cross supports on the long sides?

    Glad that I asked because I wouldn't have thought of half of this stuff... anyway I'm still tossing up whether to buy a used timber bench and put sheet metal on top, or just buy a used steel bench. Cost being the main limiting factor, I'll see how I go. And thanks for the tips & advice - I'll keep all of that in mind!

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mugget View Post
    So something like that would need some cross supports on the long sides?
    yes, given the width you quoted. You're talking putting the weight of a person on that bench, with an unsupported span almost double that of your average floor or deck. Looking at the pic you posted, a fairly cheap way to stiffen the top would be to tek screw some joist hangers to the steel stringers, and cut some 90x45 framing pine to suit. 600mm apart should be sufficient.

  8. #7
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  9. #8
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    Cheers richmond68, makes sense!

    (Still haven't done anything about this bench, but I'll get to it... eventually...)

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