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Thread: Work bench

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozwinner
    You must be useing invisable ink??

    Al
    Probably having a blackout where he lives I reckon.

    P

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  3. #17
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    Oct 2004
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    i think that i have done it.

  4. #18
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    Well it was worth the wait!! :eek:


    Good job, now fill us in with some details.
    The only thing is, it reminds me, of me on my knees busting my balls.

    Al

  5. #19
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    Oct 2004
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    Dardanup
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    Thumbs up

    I had 2 do some serious head scratching for this one. joining the feet to the legs was probably the biggest obstical (sorry good at wood work not spelling) so i had 12.5 mm steel lazer cut int to a v and simpilly drilled out the leg/foot and glued them together using a gap filling epoxy (techniglue) this stuff is also suited to glueing steel. I fid adding a little oxide to epoxy (particulary westsystems) helps hid the glue join.'

    People ask if the chair will hold their weight when they see it i tell them to park their chassie. Infact its held some fatties 100KGS+.


    Miltz

  6. #20
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    Nov 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozwinner
    Yeah, watch out for Ben, hes our top weirdo, Oh then theres Midge hes really weird.
    Now Oz, there's weird, and there's:
    Quote Originally Posted by ozwinner
    The only thing is, it reminds me, of me on my knees busting my balls.
    ...the old S&M crowd...which isn't ?????? :eek: :eek: :eek:

    Cheers,

    P

    Oh, loverly chair too StockyBloke!!

  7. #21
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    Sep 2003
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    Stocky,
    Great chair! you must do this professionally.

  8. #22
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    Really like that chair Stocky. Good approach to the joint - I also like doing joints that don't look like they'll be strong but are.

    Vive l'epoxy!
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  9. #23
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    Sep 2003
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    Elimbah, QLD
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    Stocky,

    Nice chair. Are the legs laminated, steam-bent, or just band-sawn? Wouldn't it have been feasible to just use a hardwood spline, with the grain appropriately oriented to avoid splitting? 1/2" steel sounds like overkill.

    Rocker

  10. #24
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    Oct 2004
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    Dardanup
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    the legs are cut from the solid but they are 40mm thick. The entire chair was designed to be cut from 1 8"x 2" x 2400 jh board. But the back slats are laminated finnished at 8 mm this allowed me to cut the sockets with a 8mm bit and not having to cut shoulders on the slats.

  11. #25
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    Mar 2004
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    Mildura, Victoria, Australia
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    Stocky,
    Magnificent chair! I love you sense of design and style. I think that using steel to strengthen the joints is a great idea, particularly because the steel is hidden. I might have to steal the idea my self. Extremely well done, I would love to see some of your other work.

    Thanks for sharing, Marcus.

  12. #26
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    Sep 2003
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    Elimbah, QLD
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    Stocky,

    I am wondering whether a bridle joint reinforced with a screw would not work as well or better than your Y-shaped steel insert for the 'knee' joint of your chair, as in the diagram below, which shows a tenon on the end of the 'shin' reinforced by a screw in a plugged hole

  13. #27
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    Oct 2004
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    Dardanup
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    I had considered that as an option but wasn't willing to comprimise the plug, no mater how well matched or seing he end grain on the front face.

  14. #28
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    Sep 2003
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    Fair enough

    Rocker

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