Thread: Work bench design advise.

G'day mate, and welcome to the house of fun.

Can't offer any advise on your joints, but these threads were started just for you!

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f213/s...thread-168697/

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f213/w...please-167909/

Cheers
Brett

I would recommend making the stretchers flush with the leg and making the front of the leg flush with the front edge of the bench. That way you will have better clamping options and can clamp something against both the leg and the front edge of the top.

It will also give you greater gluing area (if you use glue).

Hi Breakerboy,
Welcome. You should find all you need here.

My only concern is whether or not you'll have sufficient strength in the lower joint in the first pic. Aesthetically I find it less appealing, but that's only me!

Regards,

Rob

Originally Posted by breakerboy2000

Hello, I have been into woodwork for along time but have never had the chance to setup a dedicated workshop, I am still only in the beginning stages of setting one up now, and have limited tools,

My question is, for stability and strength, what would be the better way to attach the stretches to the legs, the left or right pic, (sorry, my drawing sucks) i would prefer to do the left pic design as it will look alot neater with a more slimline feel.

I would intend to cut out the dado's with my drop saw with depth setting engaged then just chisel middles out.

Please let me know your thoughts,

cheers

bench final.jpg

the left joint is better than the right one, but provided the rails are deep enough both methods will produce a satisfactory joint.

by teh way, you drawing doesn't suck

great. thanks for the replies,

my only conern was that since the stretches are 40mm and legs are 100x100, there would only be 60x60mm in 2 spots of the leg, but i guess the stretches would be filling them and it will be just as strong, I will go with that option!.

I have attached a photo of a bench I made several years ago with a similar principle as what you are trying to do, the rails are housed into the legs. The legs and rails are all made out of 90x45(4x2") and the bench is only bolted together as I had the idea that I might flat pack it. I've only used it as my sharpening bench, but it seems nice and solid. I've also had the intention of building a cupboard to fit into it, which would help with bracing and add extra weight when filled.

Originally Posted by breakerboy2000

my only conern was that since the stretches are 40mm and legs are 100x100, there would only be 60x60mm in 2 spots of the leg, but i guess the stretches would be filling them and it will be just as strong, I will go with that option!.

You don't have to cut the rebates to the full 40mm depth of the stretchers... you could get away with half-laps if thickness in the legs is a concern. eg. Let's say you cut the rabbets to only 30mm deep, and cut 10mm away from the stretcher to bring it flush. That'd leave you with 70x70 in the leg.

If you're feeling fussy, you could even cut the half-lap on the stretcher a cm or two short and make the corresponding part of the leg rebate full 40mm depth, so you have a "stepped half-lap" (I know the name for this type of joint but it eludes me... more caffeine is needed ) in which the shoulders of the stretchers seat fully.

(Hoping the above description makes sense... pictures are sooooo much more informative, but I can't be bothered drawing one right now. Caffeine shortage. )

Internet opinion is also for the front/long side rails to be flush with both the legs and the top of the bench, the ends rails can just stick out, unless you are going to want to clamp something to the 'short' side. So you would only have to make trenches in one side of the legs, and just screw (bolts may be better) & glue the other rails into place. If you rebate the short rails you can stick a board in that you can use to hang stuff on, or make a skinny set of shelves to put bottles & jars on, plus the board/s will help brace the legs without interfering with any other functions.

If you think you might one day have to move the bench to a new address, then consider making the legs and short rails 'permanent' with glue & screws/lag bolts, and make the long rails removable. Again, Internet opinion is that the strongest/best joints for the long rails is to make a shallow mortise in the legs with a matching short tennon on the ends of the rails, then drill through the leg into the end of the rail several inches, then use a bolt and nut to pull the whole thing tight. If the rail starts to work loose, then you can just tighten it up with a wrench/socket. You can use a simple galvanized bolt, nut & washer if you drill a cross hole, then chisel it into a 'D' shape with the flat side facing the tennon, or you can get dedicated hardware from people like Carbatec or Lee Valley. Have a look at Chris Schwarz blogs at Lost Arts Press and Popular Woodworking - if you go back thru the Pop. Wood. site you will find a heap of commentary on building workbenches and how to put them together.