Thread: Wheels on a take down Roubo workbench

If the design permits, use tusk tenons or forked wedge tenons. No glue required, very strong and can be easily disassembled with a few taps on the key / fork.

I'm considering just such a thing at the moment. The roubo I'm building is of the take down base type but is held together with the Benchcrafted bolts and barrel nuts, nevertheless it concerns me that operating the retracting casters one at a time on each corner will tend to stress the mortise and tenon joints and possibly round them out on the edges over time. I'm considering making a wooden or metal piece to join the actuating tabs of the casters on each end so that I can step on that and lift one side at a time without the twisting motion that would happen if I were to operate them one at a time. Unsure how effective that would be.

Although I have retracting casters on my current bench one part of me really doesn't want to install these casters on the new one as I worry they might spoil the look of the bench. Another possibility I'm considering is to get an axle and some wheels from the local hardware store and to drill holes in the front and rear legs on one end for the axle, use a trolley jack to lift that end, install the axle and wheels, then use the trolley jack on the other end to move it. I could then remove the axle and wheels to preserve the clean look of the bench.

Haven't made my mind up on this yet, though I'll probably go with the retracting casters since I've already bought them, I just have to solve the twisting that will happen if used one at a time. At least with the bolts and barrel nuts I can re-tighten the joints if they get loose.

That's my two cents worth, but I'm still having doubts as to how to proceed. I will need to be able to move this bench, it's just a question of how.

I've never heard of tusk or forked wedge tenons. That sounds really interesting. I was planning to use plain old wedges but tusk tenons sound better. Unless you're pulling a "Swifty" on me. I never liked the idea of weakening the leg or stretcher with big holes.

Biggus. I'd be very interested to see how you could manage to join the two sets of wheels. I'm sure I'm not the only one either.

Lyndon

Originally Posted by BEM

I've never heard of tusk or forked wedge tenons. That sounds really interesting. I was planning to use plain old wedges but tusk tenons sound better. Unless you're pulling a "Swifty" on me. I never liked the idea of weakening the leg or stretcher with big holes.

Biggus. I'd be very interested to see how you could manage to join the two sets of wheels. I'm sure I'm not the only one either.

Lyndon

Well, the general idea would be to have some sort of crosspiece joining the two paddles that actuate the lifting mechanisms so that if you put your foot in the center of it and pushed down while at the same time lifting the top of the bench to help out the process both retracting casters would deploy at the same time. I've actually done something similar with my current bench by holding the top on each corner and putting one foot on each actuator by rocking back on my heels (hence the holding of the top so you don't fall backwards) and then rocking forward on to the forward part of my foot. Both casters deploy and one whole side of the bench is lifted as one. Go around the other side and do the same again and you've raised your bench without any longitudinal twisting which would be of the most concern to me. Perhaps a piece of iron pipe with a slot cut in each end to fit over the paddles and some bolts to secure it might work. If you pushed down in the center of it while lifting the top I reckon that might work.

Thinking further on this imagine the pipe with slots in the end to fit over the paddles with a handle say a metre long coming from the center of it. You could have it hanging on the wall and when you want to lift the bench on to the casters you grab it by the handle, fit the slots on the crosspiece onto the foot paddles and lever down. Up goes the bench on one side. Go around the other side and do it again. That way you don't even need an unsightly crossbar attached to the casters. These are all just vague ideas, I'll figure out the details when I've finished the bench, she'll be right.

The Beast Workbench Design walkthrough of custom timber workbench - YouTube

not sure if this will help, but it might give you an idea or two.

This is how I made my bench mobile, it works a treat. Ideas wanted for a 'skate'

Originally Posted by Biggus

it concerns me that operating the retracting casters one at a time on each corner will tend to stress the mortise and tenon joints and possibly round them out on the edges over time.

It is possible to over-think this. If the bench is of robust design and the tenons are fastened in some way (tusks or bench bolts) then the twisting force of raising a leg will be minimal I think.
I have a very siloed pine bench with the bottom shelf loaded with planes and clamps. The side mount castors only raise it just enough to move (they don’t lift much anyway). The bench does not flex at all when I lift one leg - to the extent that the corresponding castor on the other side sometimes self activates.
Having said all that, my bench is a Paul Sellers type with wide aprons so it might be more rigid than a roubo. But if any bench is rigid enough for hand planing, then it should not flex enough to cause a problem in my humble opinion.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

The Beast Workbench Design walkthrough of custom timber workbench - YouTube

not sure if this will help, but it might give you an idea or two.

I actually remember your bench build and had it in mind when I was suggesting a crosspiece to connect the two foot pedals. Your solution was on another level entirely though, really well done and an elegant solution.

Originally Posted by bruceward51

It is possible to over-think this. If the bench is of robust design and the tenons are fastened in some way (tusks or bench bolts) then the twisting force of raising a leg will be minimal I think.
I have a very siloed pine bench with the bottom shelf loaded with planes and clamps. The side mount castors only raise it just enough to move (they don’t lift much anyway). The bench does not flex at all when I lift one leg - to the extent that the corresponding castor on the other side sometimes self activates.
Having said all that, my bench is a Paul Sellers type with wide aprons so it might be more rigid than a roubo. But if any bench is rigid enough for hand planing, then it should not flex enough to cause a problem in my humble opinion.

I suspect you may be right and that I'm over thinking this.

This might give some ideas, although not pretty works well,
Made from scrap metal lying around and a bit of ply.
A wheely good workbench solution

I'm going to make something fancier for the Scandi bench, the biggest issue with it is the lever
can reach up a bit high, and the bench unloaded might need a drag for 2 inches as to settle, as this swings the casters around for the foot plate to lower a bit, so you don't need to raise your foot so high.
This wouldn't be a problem if I didn't want the bench to lift the height I want it, (for clearance of chips and whatnot.
Also worth noting that an axle with brackets is defiantly better than a paddle, I didn't have any materials suitable.
Stuff gets caught there, but have to say makes another shelf when in a frazzle searching for something.

Carl Holmgren on youtube has some interesting designs which could be inspirational.

Tom