Thread: Building A Work Table/Bench without a Worktable/Bench to build it on...

What are you thinking of doing for dogs and how are you getting a hole through the face to hold them? Drilling through?

Originally Posted by auscab

What are you thinking of doing for dogs and how are you getting a hole through the face to hold them? Drilling through?

Well the top is 33mm thick and the distance from the underside of the top to the shelf is 60mm, I'm guessing I need to drill completely through the 33mm, with some scrap wood clamped under the table to stop tear out. 20mm seems to be the go for dogs so I'll make some that size to start off with. What are your thoughts Rob?.

Also I have no clue where to position the dogs....

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

in my view it is too vulnerable to scratching, alcohol and heat.

Hi Graeme!, The shellac is only a tempory thing for the top. I'll be giving it a light sand and applying a few coats of wipe on poly when I get time.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Recently I have been using Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil - its composition is a trade secret, but I suspect that it is similar to Danish Oil but with the mineral turps replaced by (natural) gum turpentine - it smells really nice, a pleasure to use.

Very interesting, where can I get some of that to try?.

By the way, thanks for your suggestion to add a back plate for the vise, it worked out great!.

I’m wondering about the holes needed in that deep front face Sam .
Im not going to start calling them a Chop
When I saw you joined the face with two parts I thought you had missed an easy chance for square dog holes in the face if they were to be square holes . But you have already started with some round ones in your top. So how are you drilling that face through ?

Originally Posted by auscab

I’m wondering about the holes needed in that deep front face Sam .
Im not going to start calling them a Chop
When I saw you joined the face with two parts I thought you had missed an easy chance for square dog holes in the face if they were to be square holes . But you have already started with some round ones in your top. So how are you drilling that face through ?

Do the holes have to go all the way through the jaw?

I'm not sure where I got the "chop" phrase from, everyone seems to refer to the front jaw as that
Whats the correct terminology anyway?

Nothing is correct . New names keep coming along . I’ve no idea when or where the name Chop came from . I’m just used to calling them a face vise and the front is the face or front jaw. So call them what ever you want.

A bench dog works by first tightening the bench screw with the dogs holding say a drawer side to be planed. When the dogs are tight on the drawer side ends you then tap the dogs down to pull the piece to be planed tight to the bench top. When finished he dogs normally get tapped down under the surface of the bench top or front jaw top where they stay until you need them again. To bring them up you tap from the under side. I suppose you could have dogs that don’t go all the way down under the surface so you can pull them back out and keep somewhere else . Sometimes my dogs are gripping 3 or 4mm wood. The dogs also have to have a lean / angle as well . Leaning towards each other . If you can’t pull the wood down hard to the bench top and there is no lean angle they won’t work as well as they should .

Rob

I didn't realise how many attachments there are on the market for dog holes!. I don't think having to drill all the way through the vise is necessary as there's heaps of other alternatives and options. I understood in principle what the dog holes were for but I didn't know how many uses they actually had.

I think I'll be starting off with two lines of holes from the vice like this:

B00024W836.01-A2EDP3O6BF4F63._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

I'll have the holes in line with the outer bolts as thats where I see the majority of them:

48IMG_E9188.jpg

Besides, being in line with the 20mm bolt holes will be more pleasing symmetrically. I just need to work out how far apart the holes should be...

I just wanted to point out for those that don't already know, this table is not a Workbench and I'm not trying to turn it into one. It's simply a work table with the primary purpose of assembling things on and holding stuff down to a completely flat surface.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

I just wanted to point out for those that don't already know, this table is not a Workbench and I'm not trying to turn it into one. It's simply a work table with the primary purpose of assembling things on and holding stuff down to a completely flat surface.

Sam, suggest that you change the title of this thread and your references to read assembly bench. Should stop the confusion.

My assembly bench has a daggy 25 mm MDF top and apron on one end, both with 19 mm dog holes on 101.6 mm centres. Mainly use mini Vicegrip clamps as hold downs. Incredibly versatile.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Sam, suggest that you change the title of this thread and your references to read assembly bench. Should stop the confusion.

My assembly bench has a daggy 25 mm MDF top and apron on one end, both with 19 mm dog holes on 101.6 mm centres. Mainly use mini Vicegrip clamps as hold downs. Incredibly versatile.

Hi Graeme, I didn't know you can change the thread title?

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Vicegrip clamps as hold downs. Incredibly versatile.

What sort have you got?.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Hi Graeme, I didn't know you can change the thread title?

Duh! Me either. Perhaps you can ask a moderator?

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

... Vicegrip clamps as hold downs. Incredibly versatile.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

What sort have you got?.

Should have said Quickgrip Clamps - my bad - like this:

Quick grip mini clamps.jpg150 x 12.7 mm bar.

Irwin Quick grip mini clamps usually sell for $16-18 each which I think is expensive. But every 6 months or so they seem to get put on special at $29.95 for a four-pack - about $7.49 each, which is cheap.

To use, I just knock the pin out of the end of the bar, slide the clamp mechanism off the bar, put the bar through a dog hole, and reposition the clamp mechanism. Heaps of holding power and really quick to use and adjust. [I used to replace the pin after each use, but do not bother now.]

Irwin Quick Grips come in at least four weights:

• micro,
• mini,
• medium duty,
• heavy duty.

We are talking about the mini clamps.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Do the holes have to go all the way through the jaw? ...

If the holes go right through, saw dust and shavings will mainly fall right through. If the holes are stopped, gunk will accumulate and need to be vacuumed out.

I'm not sure where I got the "chop" phrase from, everyone seems to refer to the front jaw as that
Whats the correct terminology anyway?

Originally Posted by auscab

Nothing is correct . New names keep coming along . I’ve no idea when or where the name Chop came from ...

Yep, terms are constantly evolving - great grandad had no need for the terms we use with electrical tools, and he used words we have forgotten. I have always used the terms rear or fixed jaw and front or mobile jaw. The sacrificial or replaceable pads I have called cheeks or pads.

I also am unsure where the term chop comes from, but I suspect that it might be an americanism.