Thread: Building A Work Table/Bench without a Worktable/Bench to build it on...

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

I beg to differ, Rob.

I had one and it drove me mad. It was 3 mm MDF with an 18 mm square rim in Tas oak. Even had a bunch of little felt pads from Bunnings on the back to leave an air space between the bench top and cover. It was great in situ, but when I wanted to use the bench, where did I put the top where it is out of the way? Anywhere in the shed is awkward, really no room, and outside - its probably raining or windy or both.

For a while, after I ditched the bench cover, I used a painters drop cloth. That practice did not last.

Now, I am quite happy in not covering my bench. And if my bench was as pretty as Sam's then I would not want to hide it!

Hi Graeme,

I used a tarp for when I was doing glue ups on the tablesaw, the problem I had was after a while the tarp surface got so clogged with bits of glue it interfered with clamping things flat. Eventually I decided to just use some cheap ply to cover the tablesaw surface and it was easier to scrape or quickly sand it off to get thinsg flat again.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Hi Graeme,

I used a tarp for when I was doing glue ups on the tablesaw, the problem I had was after a while the tarp surface got so clogged with bits of glue it interfered with clamping things flat. Eventually I decided to just use some cheap ply to cover the tablesaw surface and it was easier to scrape or quickly sand it off to get thinsg flat again.

Fine. Had the same issues which is one of the reasons I stopped using the drop cloth.

I rarely do glue ups on my workbench - just use some plastic sheet, even clingwrap when I do.

Mostly I do glue ups on my MDF assembly bench. I try to minimise splashage & drips, wipe up fresh stuff - water for PVA and acetone for epoxy - and then scrape off the mised bits next day with a tungsten scraper. Not pretty, but MDF and pretty do not belong in the same sentence.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Hi Graeme,

I used a tarp for when I was doing glue ups on the tablesaw, the problem I had was after a while the tarp surface got so clogged with bits of glue it interfered with clamping things flat. Eventually I decided to just use some cheap ply to cover the tablesaw surface and it was easier to scrape or quickly sand it off to get thinsg flat again.

Go to Bunnings and purchase their 1/4" rubber mat (1100 x 600). Just wipe the glue off. It is also a firm surface and grips the work ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Has anyone got suggestions on what kind of bench clamp to buy for this?, it will be mounted on the end.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

I beg to differ, Rob.

I had one and it drove me mad. It was 3 mm MDF with an 18 mm square rim in Tas oak. Even had a bunch of little felt pads from Bunnings on the back to leave an air space between the bench top and cover. It was great in situ, but when I wanted to use the bench, where did I put the top where it is out of the way? Anywhere in the shed is awkward, really no room, and outside - its probably raining or windy or both.

For a while, after I ditched the bench cover, I used a painters drop cloth. That practice did not last.

Now, I am quite happy in not covering my bench. And if my bench was as pretty as Sam's then I would not want to hide it!

Graeme . The top gets in My way too if I don't try a little and place it out of the way. Its benefits far out weigh that though. And I cant have glue and the rest going down the dog holes as I'm sure you will understand when you seen them.

That's with the false top on. I included some of my over size lay out tools which I use for laying out lines on the black top sometimes. Its due for some more paint as well.
IMG_1431a.jpg

Top off with dog holes matching the Emmert vise. What ever goes through the holes ends up on sharpening stones . Saws when some are under there, Or could glue the dogs in place. The front two dog holes are over the top of a beam so stumpy dogs get placed in them to sit up high if I need them .
IMG_1432a.jpg

Top half off.
IMG_1433a.jpg
The end holding drawers because I don't think I've shown the drawers and what they hold. Or the length of them.

Screws and nails that haven't been to well organized since my move. I want to put them somewhere else one day.
IMG_1435a.jpg IMG_1434a.jpg

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Has anyone got suggestions on what kind of bench clamp to buy for this?, it will be mounted on the end.

To clamp what to the bench ? A Vise ?

Originally Posted by auscab

To clamp what to the bench ? A Vise ?

I want a permanent vice for the end, like what you have on yours.

heres the dimensions again:

IMG_E19151.jpg

I'll be adding a face to the top rail to bring it in line and level with the legs.

The quick-release Record #52 1/2 is the classic face/end vice. I have a vintage one at the end of my MFT (no, you can't have it! ).



Regards from Peth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

The quick-release Record #52 1/2 is the classic face/end vice. I have a vintage one at the end of my MFT (no, you can't have it! ).



Regards from Peth

Derek

I love that vice, in general is there any limit on the width or height of the timber vice faces?.

Originally Posted by auscab

IMG_1431a.jpg

I think if I attached that vice to my bench it would topple over!, it looks like its been pulled off a WWII tank!.

I thought you were going to do a Moxon vise in that space ?

I could have placed the vice more centrally. You can make the chop any size you wish, but the vice will rack if not securely attached and if the chop is not stiff enough. One of the very best vices of this type is made by HNT Gordon. Pricey and no quick release, but solid.

The alternative is a double screw vice. You buy the mechanism and make the vice. That can be a little daunting for some ...



The best are made by Veritas/Lee Value or LN. This is sold by Carbatec. They also sell copies of the #52 1/2, also made by Groz. I do not recommend them. The twin screw is so simple that you cannot go wrong. Search for a genuine, used Record. Some old Oz makes are great as well.

Something like this style linked below but more suited to that space under your top. Not only will it work well as they do but filling that end hole with timber will brace the top like the rest of the top is braced . The top looks like it has flex up that end as it is .

Moxon Vise | Woodworking Project | Woodsmith Plans