Thread: Building A Work Table/Bench without a Worktable/Bench to build it on...

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

I think if I attached that vice to my bench it would topple over!, it looks like its been pulled off a WWII tank!.

Have you seen what the Emmert is capable of doing ? They and other similar better pattern makers vises are very good .

What ever you do having twin dog holes is a handy thing to use . Specially on round tops .

Originally Posted by auscab

I thought you were going to do a Moxon vise in that space ?

I was going to go with a Moxon vise (just realised I was using the American spelling!) but I think I would have trouble in the 530mm width of the table, or even 620mm if you include the table edge.

Originally Posted by auscab

Have you seen what the Emmert is capable of doing ? They and other similar better pattern makers vises are very good .

What ever you do having twin dog holes is a handy thing to use . Specially on round tops .

Is it one of those that can be angled and turned?, how heavy is the thing?.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

The alternative is a double screw vice. You buy the mechanism and make the vice. That can be a little daunting for some ...

That one looks to be suitable.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

They also sell copies of the #52 1/2, also made by Groz. I do not recommend them.

Whats wrong with the Groz ones?.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Rob, I am going to argue against this design ...

Many love it, since it was made popular by Benchcrafted. But I do wonder how many dovetails they actually cut (I hope that you do not have one!! ).

The reason I write this is that, when transferring tails to the pin board, the edge of the pin board is coplanar with the front chop. Assuming that you use a knife to score the marks, you will quickly start slicing up the chop in the follow through.


Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek. I'm not recommending a Moxon style for Sam to cut dovetails but that is also a probability he could use it for. I'm all about the twin dog hole clamping ability mainly. Its not just for round tops but gee is it good on them! Its good on a lot of other things as well. Box like pieces or doors .

No I don't have a Moxon style quite like the link I put up . I do have a similar twin screw dovetail marking cutting jig that clamps to the work table top that I made . Ill put up a picture. Its used for marking and cutting carcase dovetails .

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Is it one of those that can be angled and turned?, how heavy is the thing?.

Yes angled and turned.

Weight ? Not sure . With a guess 30 to 40 kg .

I just looked it up . 39 KG That's an Emmert weight but not exactly sure if its my model .

Originally Posted by auscab

Yes angled and turned.

Weight ? Not sure . With a guess 30 to 40 kg .

I just looked it up . 39 KG That's an Emmert weight but not exactly sure if its my model .

Those things are amazing, how old is yours Rob?, how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Those things are amazing, how old is yours Rob?, how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking.

Roughly 1891 to 1900 . I paid $800 . It was the only one Ive seen for sale for a very long time in Au. One showed up which was different and broken a few months back . Missing a part as well. It went for $3 or $350 in Geelong. Mine has brazed repairs as well.

There are moderm slightly smaller cheaper copies that do show up as well .

One thing for sure Sam. You need to get the vise first then plan the bench around that. Because fitting a lot of vises wont work doing it the other way around . Specially a pattern makers vise.

This does look like it will fit your space. The grain direction of the top is a small concern . You should be able to brace it up though.

Originally Posted by auscab

The grain direction of the top is a small concern . You should be able to brace it up though.

What do you mean?

Replying to Derek before I was talking about this .

For dovetail carcase and drawer marking , cutting , routing waste away. I made this some years ago.
It clamps to any bench or table top.
The horizontal top bar either holds down sides to mark out fronts like in the picture. Or acts as a stop for the router removing waste from a drawer front or carcase side. I also clamp the drawer backs to it pointing to the roof for marking dovetails to drawer sides.

IMG_4576.JPG

You can also see in the picture above a thin piece of wood which is glued in place as a temporary piece for when I'm doing through dovetails, routing the waste away so it doesn't damage the Jarrah jig.

And the front bar does this for saw cutting or routing when the side or drawer front is down low and flush with the jig body.

1 167.jpg

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

What do you mean?

Your considering screwing a vise to the endgrain top above . A vise is normally fitted to cross grain top . Which is why my table has large bread board ends. Derek has done the same but I would think he has a cross piece supporting the top behind the vise front under the top. Has he ?
If you just hang a vise under that top end its not ideal. With a pounding it could crack your top. You have a horizontal beam under the top down lower so you could add timber in around the vise to brace it up in that space.

I just thought you would be doing a moxon style which would be filling the space that I saw ages ago so didnt mention it. Because that end was getting away from the idea of bracing the whole top for flex. The metal vise will work though and bracing will help it out.

You could also add a bread board end onto the work top of your table to help it out if you wanted.

Originally Posted by auscab

Your considering screwing a vise to the endgrain top above . A vise is normally fitted to cross grain top . Which is why my table has large bread board ends. Derek has done the same but I would think he has a cross piece supporting the top behind the vise front under the top. Has he ?
If you just hang a vise under that top end its not ideal. With a pounding it could crack your top. You have a horizontal beam under the top down lower so you could add timber in around the vise to brace it up in that space.

I'm mortising another beam to fit in the 60mm gap, then adding a 150mm wide rail to bring it flush with the legs, I'm not leaving a gap there. Was this there concern?. I'll post a photo tomorrow of what I mean.

Originally Posted by auscab

You could also add a bread board end onto the work top of your table to help it out if you wanted.

Very good idea!, Whats the proper way of attaching bread board ends Rob?, Should I tongue & groove the bread board end on?. I've never done this before so please advise on the best way of tackling it.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

I'm mortising another beam to fit in the 60mm gap, then adding a 150mm wide rail to bring it flush with the legs, I'm not leaving a gap there. Was this there concern?. I'll post a photo tomorrow of what I mean.

That sound fine . Pictures would be good tomorrow. Its bed time for me .

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Very good idea!, Whats the proper way of attaching bread board ends Rob?, Should I tongue & groove the bread board end on?. I've never done this before so please advise on the best way of tackling it.

Domino XL 14mm is good .
No reason you couldn't mark out and cut the same style as that with drill and chisels . 60mm in each side x 50mm wide x 14mm thick .

A Fast and easy way is just through screw it with coach screws and cap the holes. Six decent sized screws and glue the BBE on as well.
Do that above as well as tongue and groove would be better again .