Thread: Building A Work Table/Bench without a Worktable/Bench to build it on...

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Easiest option is to buy a Veritas vice handle from Carbatec for $20.90.

Hi Graeme, Thanks for the suggestions mate but I'll be making my own from scratch using white oak, I also need the experience.

I didn't need to make the underside of the plywood shelf thicker after all, as I found some m6 countersunk bolts in my supplies:

IMG_9222.jpg

The screw placement on the mounting plate seems very random and I had to make a new hole on the left as the one which was pre-drilled was too close to the edge of the rail. I'm pretty confident the 6 bolts should hold it without issue:

IMG_9224.jpg IMG_9223.jpg

When it came time to slide the screw in I run into a slight problem, or so I thought... the screw and two steel rods hit the middle shelf beam. So I clamped a piece of scrap wood to the beam and drilled three half moons using a large forstner bit:

IMG_9225.jpg IMG_9226.jpg

And thats when it occurred to me, I didn't blasted well need to drill the half moons because I didn't factor in the width of the front jaw which hasn't been made yet!. After calling myself a few choice words I called it a day before I did any more butchering!.

Also I got a reply from Timbecon on the centering of the vise, reads as follows:

Hi Sam,

I think you can do it either way. On the bench in the showroom, the plate is centred (so the screw is off centre), however the length of the wooden face to either side of the plate is not critical - so you could make both the plate and the screw off centred if you like!
Regards,
Geoff


So there you have it, straight from the horses mouth, I think.

I made a table saw lathe jig for my jointer jig. I'm sure you have all seen the Youtube video's on the subject and I know how unsafe this sounds and I must admit I thought it abit crazy myself until I did some extensive research on it. My version of the jig does not use a drill to rotate the timber through the blade. Instead it locks the timber in place like you would withe any other jig and a straight cut is made every pass until you have something that resembles a cylinder. Its quite a time consuming process doing it this way however it work wonderfully.

Here's the jig mounted on my jointer sled:

IMG_9232.jpg

Anyway suffice to say I made myself a couple of handles for the vise out of white and red oak.

White oak is on the

IMG_9238.jpg IMG_9234.jpg IMG_9239.jpg

I have no idea how long to make these thing so if someone could give me an idea I'd be grateful.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

I have no idea how long to make these thing so if someone could give me an idea I'd be grateful.

Looks to have worked great Sam .
With the picture on the right. It Looks to long which is a good place to start. I think you should be testing and tightening the vise at different positions and judging for yourself on the length. Its a balance between function first and form second . Working well and looking right. Mark it out with chalk or pencil and get a minimum and maximum distance then choose somewhere between them to see what you end up with. When I want fast wind in or wind out I like to point a finger out and spin the screw using the finger on end of stick method. Make sure you can do that.

Edit.
I can measure my two when I get to shed as well and you can compare.
I just have to Remember to do that when I get there

Originally Posted by auscab

I can measure my two when I get to shed as well and you can compare.
I just have to Remember to do that when I get there

Thanks Rob, that would help. Also, if you get a chance, can you take a close up of your front vise jaw, I really like the way did the profile beading on that.

This one:

IMG_2230.JPG

The Jarrah vise has shaping like this Sam . The Stick for the screw is 350 long.


IMG_1606.jpg IMG_1608a.jpg

The Other Hardwood bench has the same shaping to face of vise on the ends. The stick is 400 long .


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Hope this helps.

Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

The Stick for the screw is 350 long. Rob

Thanks Rob, mine was something like 700mm long , so Ive cut both down to 350 and 450.

Originally Posted by auscab

IMG_1606.jpg IMG_1608a.jpg IMG_1507aa.jpg IMG_1611.jpg IMG_1612.jpg
Rob

Whats the thickness of the jaw?, I'm going to attempt to do a similar profile on mine, I just have to work out how I'm going to make it without it looking odd as the top of the vice edge's will be flush with the table top edges.

Rob, GraemeCook suggested I add a further 25mm back cheek to the vise like this:

Sam - Parts 3.jpg

I'd appreciate your thoughts on this idea. As it stands the thickness of the back cheek is 85mm. I'm at that point now in which I could attach it.

I forgot to post the latest photo of the vise:

IMG_9242.jpg

The back face is now flush with the legs and the top. Oh and the quick release mechanism works great.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

Rob, GraemeCook suggested I add a further 25mm back cheek to the vise like this:

Sam - Parts 3.jpg

I'd appreciate your thoughts on this idea. As it stands the thickness of the back cheek is 85mm. I'm at that point now in which I could attach it.

After seeing your last picture definitely add the 25mm back cheek Graeme suggested. You would want continuous back support rather than joints being in there if you have a choice.

With 25mm added though what opening do you end up with? That's sort of important as well.

Not so important for using the dogs on top because with the dog spacing down the top of the work table the vise just needs to open past one spacing distance and your covered. Its important if you want to hold wide stuff like made up drawers. I do that all the time but on my work bench, not my work table . Drawers up to 200 to 250 deep held in the vise and clamped to the front of my bench resting on the board jack is a common thing . That's not so easy/ or possible, on the worktable to do. But if its your only vise for a while then you may have to do it on that. Much better on a bench front though . And a bench that also has a Well so the all important clamp hooked on the Well pulling the other end of the drawer to the bench face can be used. If you don't have a Well You can always use a longer clamp to the back of the bench if the bench does not have a tool backboard and you can pull it off the wall easy. They get a bit heavy though. I couldn't be shifting mine, way to heavy fully loaded with cast iron and tool steel. And I have the Well any way.

Its another subject but if you ever build a workbench that's going up against a wall make sure its got a well. Otherwise finishing and fitting drawers to cabinets will be more difficult than it has to be.

Originally Posted by auscab

After seeing your last picture definitely add the 25mm back cheek Graeme suggested.

I thought it was a very good idea of Graeme's and it makes sense, I just wanted your view after seeing it.

Originally Posted by auscab

With 25mm added though what opening do you end up with? That's sort of important as well.

The opening as it stands is 315mm without a front jaw attached.

With 25mm added it would be 290mm

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

With 25mm added it would be 290mm

So with a 65 mm front jaw you will have 225. That's good. My front jaws are about 65 I think. That's plenty for around 20mm of Dog.
Have you bought Dogs or are you making them?