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Thread: Anyone built a paulk workbendch?
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18th June 2013, 01:20 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Anyone built a paulk workbench?
I saw this mentioned in another thread in the Workbench forum, has anyone built one of these?
I have a 3.6 metre bench in the middle of the shed and while it's handy to be able to get to both sides, it does take up a lot of room so I plan to move it against one wall.
Something like the paulk bench would be handy for assembling 'stuff' as well as cutting full sheets of MDF/ply. Not sure about the router inclusion but a modification so it could work with the trusty Triton would be good. Plans are only $10.
Here's a promotional video PAULK WORK BENCH II - YouTube
EDIT: I ordered the plans last night and they were emailed over night.. Lots of detail so it should be an easy build.
Plans call for 1/2" ply but I've some pieces of 17 formply so might use a sheet of it for the top as it will give a tough surface without too much increase in weight.
Construction relies on pocket hole joints so I'll have to work out some way of doing that without a jig.Geoff
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18th June 2013, 09:19 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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G'day Geoff
Haven't built one yet but its on the gunnado list.
In fact its next on the list just after I finish the mobile base for my new lathe.
So in theory I'm buying the ply tomorrow.
Don't have the plans though just will see how I go. I have watched the videos a few times and seems pretty straight forward and regarding pocket screws just do as Ron does on the base and screw through . The reason he uses pockets is so they're not visible from top.
Good luck DennisSome people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs .
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18th June 2013, 09:43 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Dennis,
I've been through the plans a few times and there's not much in there that you couldn't work out from the videos. It's in imperial and metric but the metric measurements are just converted imperial so would need a bit of tweaking to suit real world sheet sizes. e.g. he uses 1/2" ply but the metric plan says 20mm!
I dug out a sheet of 17mm formply which will be the top and I'll pick up a couple of sheets of 12mm CD ply and pocket hole jig tomorrow
I've rearrange the shed so I've got room to work so no excuse (apart from being 6 degrees in the shed today )
I'm still thinking of some way to incorporate the Triton as the table saw ...
Making this would be a great excuse to buy a track sawGeoff
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19th June 2013, 12:30 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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funny I was thinking this will be a great excuse to buy one of the small portable tablesaws
Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs .
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19th June 2013, 11:51 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Damn the internet!
Sitting down with a cup a tea, browsing the web while contemplating what I need to make the bench and suddenly, I find I've bought myself a track saw
Just ordered one of these - W874 | cs-55 Circular Plunge & Mitre Cut Saw - Package | machineryhouse.com.auGeoff
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19th June 2013, 01:47 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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i knew I was tempting fate when I said next on the list. Bloody blocked drains...
Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs .
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25th June 2013, 04:35 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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I've got the plywood, my new track saw has arrived so I hope to start construction of the paulk workbench 'soon'. All I need to do it to wrestle a piece of 17mm form-ply down from the mezzanine whihc means more clearing up to do in the shed.
I'll be building the workbench with the inbuilt router table because I need one. I'd like to incorporate the table saw but can't see an easy way to do this for the Triton.
Another thing I'd like to add is a small vise but that needs some thought as to how to securely attach it to what is basically a plywood box.
An outside temperature of 6° isn't helping thingsGeoff
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25th June 2013, 11:38 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Well I've started mine so far I've had a chance to cut the tops bottoms sides and trestles will hopefully manage some more tomorrow.
Wouldn't worry too much about the strength of the plywood box as I have built a torsion box top before and they really are very strong. As for adding the triton if you make the workbench the same height as the triton???
regarding the vice, on one of the sides add a couple of layers of ply (omitting one of the large holes) and fit as per normal .Some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs .
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14th July 2013, 03:42 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Lots of holes
After a few test cuts with the new track saw, I got stuck into cutting the top, bottom and sides for the work bench.
Sides will need a little trimming to get them all the same size. I can;t blame the saw for this, it's all down to my marking out!
The next thing I want to do is to cut the 19mm holes in the benchtop, any suggestions for how I can do this? The build notes say to use a 3/4" (19mm) spiral up-cut bit in the router.
Not a cheap option.
I also need a reliable, repeatable method to get the spacing correct. There's 100 holes at 100mm centres or each side of the bench.Geoff
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14th July 2013, 04:27 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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A forstner bit may be the way,mark out then put the point of the bit on while it's stopped then drill,may be a quicker way than with a router as you would need to make some sort of jig for routing.
Other than that drill out a series of holes on a strip of your ply (6?) with a forstner then use this as a guide to drill through.
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14th July 2013, 05:19 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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I just tried a couple of holes with the 19mm forstner bit and in 17mm formply, it's hard going! I'd hate to have to do it for 200 holes.
I'll try drilling some holes with the router (tomorrow, it's getting a bit cold right now) and see how that goes.
Meanwhile, I'll think of a simple jig that will give me some repeatability.Geoff
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14th July 2013, 06:12 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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gday geoff this is what I did I looked for a spiral bit but way too much money and didnt want to wait for one from lee valley who have a very reasonably priced one so I used my 20mm forstner bit from carbitool(I have used this before to put dog holes in another bench and the festool and walko clamps fit fine) it is carbide tipped and much better than HSS. Then made this jig to fit my track marked out the holes on one sheet then screwed the two together then drilled them. I did learn the hard way to not drill all the way through but to turn over and finish from other side once drill point had broken through . With the formply you might want to do a pre drill to remove the plastic
It seems to have worked out pretty wellSome people are like slinkies - not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs .
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14th July 2013, 08:00 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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fubar,
A jig to use the router with the saw track might be a good idea - not that I trust the saw track to be a straight line when the two pieces are joined together.
I've made a router template out of 6mm MDF to cut the oval holes in the sides, is that what you did for yours?
I'm not sure that I need to drill holes in the top, it's not as if I have any clamps that will fit. The Festool clamps will have to wait until that elusive lottery winGeoff
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15th July 2013, 05:44 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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A little progress.
Spent the day in the shed, sawing and routing. It wasn't as exciting as it sounds.
All the pieces are cut, routed and (mostly) sanded. Still two cross pieces to cut but I'll have to find a bit more ply for those. Very little wastage from cutting 3 sheets of ply.
Only a couple of errors:
- I made a template out of 6mm MDF for routing out the oval shaped holes. Problem is that the Triton router template protrudes about 8mm below the base plate. Rather than make a new template out of 12mm MDF, I ended up using the Ozito router. A bit slower as it doesn't have the power of the Triton but it did the job
- Forgot to lock the plunge mechanism on the router! I decided to round over the edge of the oval holes, A big oops where the router bit plunged a little too far. That is now an inside piece.
Tomorrow is pocket hole day! This is where I regret not getting the Kreg jig with the built in clamp. About 130 or so pocket holes to drill.
As I'm using formply for the top, I'll route off about 1mm from the face where the sided and internal member are glued.
Is Titebond the right stuff to glue ply?Geoff
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16th July 2013, 06:01 PM #15GOLD MEMBER
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GLued and screwed
Decided not to drill holes in the top as I don;t have any clamps to suit. I can always drill them later should I want.
After drilling 30 or so pocket holes, I can see the advantage of the Kreg jig that has the clamp included!
I made up a fixture that sets the depth of the pocket hole jig and lets me clamp and drill two at once. This made things much quicker.
I routed off the phenolic coating from the formply so the glue (standard Titebond) will stick, hope this works.
One side and the ends are assembled, the rest tomorrow.Geoff
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