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  1. #31
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    Another tip - that I'm sure you've worked out now.... test cuts on scrap timber with any new setting on tools - router bits, biscuit joiners, circular/mitre saws etc etc
    Heh, yeap Astro, i'm usually more carefull about new tools, it's been a while since new shiny tools for me so i slipped up and got ahead of myself, its good advice and figured i'd include my blunders to help others out if they're following the thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Liking what I see so far! I never facter in tool costs of my projects; I just explain to the Minister for War and Finance that in order to make this item (for her) I specifically need to buy something shiny first......

    I had the previous model of Ozito biscuit cutter and found the same adjustment snags as you have. It served me well for a few years until it finally rooted itself. It turns out the top end of the arbor runs in a bare aluminium bushing with only a bit of grease sitting in the gearbox to lubricate it, so it definately has a set "working life". Saying that though, I reckon I must have cut around a thousand biscuits with it.
    Yeap tiff, i too use the " This for that " compromise, i wonder if the model i've gotten has the same design flaw, i'll have to look up the manual and check out the exploded view if it has one, still though thats quite a life from a relativly cheap power tool i wont use often. Still very happy with the $ to work life of it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    How much for each biscuit?
    o.0 , hmm $79.98 for the biscuit machine plus $65.00 for 1000 biscuits (If you meant cheif tiff's comment) it works out about 15 cents per biscuit. If you meant mine i bought two 50 packs at about $9.00 ea, so thats about 98 cents per biscuit so far. And if you just meant anzacs, i use a short length of pine to hit the floorboards from the garage and yell " Coffee please honey " an i rekon those type over the years have cost me quite a LOT more than the pine.

    Quote Originally Posted by danny.s View Post
    Hi Everyone

    Being new to this forum and to the fine art of woodworking I am going to go right ahead and assume this is a safe place to ask dumb questions. Why is the centre of all your workbenches sunken compared to the front and back edges?

    To date I'm more the framer and builder where the bench is just somewhere to put the dropsaw.

    Danny
    Hi danny.s absolutly not a dumb question, i my experience the sunken middle workbench comes from 2 things in my situation, in high school the benches were sunken as they were island type benches with 4 kids per bench, so chisels and planes etc could roll or be placed into the centre so as not to drop on the floor and require resharpening (aka teacher time spent) and be safer (aka time off for a chisel in foot cause ur mate opposite was sawing), in the high school woodshop we also used it as a bench dog for various different jigs and processes as well. My particular case in this build was my BIL had two lengths excess to his needs and while i didn't plan it that way, thats the way it has worked out cheaply for me, so i grabbed em and used em in the same configuration.

    Neal.

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  3. #32
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    Apr 2011
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    thanks Neal.

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by thompy View Post
    , i use a short length of pine to hit the floorboards from the garage and yell " Coffee please honey " an i rekon those type over the years have cost me quite a LOT more than the pine.

    .

    I read this and could not get the image out of my head.

  5. #34
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    A little pic here for kman-oz in regards to the threads, in case he misses the other thread i made about em, like i mentioned before just going to use a grease for the old school acme threads, and i found a little hardware that still had 3/4" gal pipe supplies ( and i gotta add, its so nice to find a hardware that doesn't look at you like you have two heads when u mention 3/4" gal ). Bought 4 sockets / joiners for $1.60 ea fitted em to the unused ends to protect the open threads hitting the concrete and destroying the thread.

    I could get creative and fit them into a block of wood for levelling purposes, and or make something up for the acme thread end to match it. For now they're ok, storable, protected, and shiny, i'll tackle the blocking thing if the need arrises.

    Next thing to do (on my bench) will be to unload it, remove the lathe, and fit up the frame for the sacrificial ply top to sit into, then i'll be able to construct the pipe clamp vice, i'm working again so might be a little while before i get back onto it.

    Neal.

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