My money is on him too. Looking good there Boz. What is the plan for the end-cap and carriage vise, I'm keen to see it.
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My money is on him too. Looking good there Boz. What is the plan for the end-cap and carriage vise, I'm keen to see it.
I think I've solved your problem Groggy, your Labrajointer is realy only a watch dog :doh:not a working dog:U
Have fun flipping that B&stard!
Yeah, if that top needs glueing you need to back off the plane blade a 1/2" or so. :D
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_TLpErNseUzY/TA...s/P1070661.JPG
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_TLpErNseUzY/TA...Y/P1070669.JPG
Flipped the bench this morning. Ended up doing it my own. Was easier then I thought. But a little fore thought, and a little leverage and it was surprising easy.
Groggy, haven't forgotten your question re: end caps. Will have a post of them soon.
Looking very nice Boz. Now the fiddly bits eh? Vises, chop, end caps, deadman, maybe a plane stop...
I wish I was that far along :kickcan:
Cool
Here's a sneak peak at the end caps. I had cut the end caps and the mortise a long time ago. Forsner drilling and hand chiseling.
The end tenon I cut with circ saw, hand saw, and chisel. To make the matching staggered tenon I first tried a coping saw, and after breaking 3 blades.... I switched to drilling along my cut line and chiseling it out. It doesn't look pretty... a fair bit of blow out. But the tenon is a nice fit, with the right amount of mallet strength to align it.
5" bolts and captured nuts. 5/16" bolts in 1/2" oversized slotted holes for expansion.
It's not a perfect fit. Tricky using a circ saw. I plan on picking up a rabbet plane soon, so will wait to clean it up with that.
The second end cap is tricky as it has the wagon component in it.
CoupleA number of questions for you Dan:
1. What is the distance from the end of the end cap tenon to the leg?
2. How did you drill the dog holes all the way through (drill press?)
3. Did you consider reversing the end cap bolts so the holes are not visible? i.e put slots under the table to enable them to slide in then the nuts go up a hole in the bottom ofd the end cap.
4. No dovetails on the end caps?
5. The slide on your wagon vice, is it rounded like the diagrams or, like mine, a new design that is square?
6. Will you have a crotchet?
And another, it looks like the top of the dog holes are rounded by a router (minor burn below the top) - what radius bit did you use?
The top is looking great, built like the deck of the USS Iowa :)
A note for anyone who purchased the wagon vise. There has been a change to the design and I have just noticed the plans have an amendment. The difference is the wagon block slide is now square, instead of rounded on one shoulder, and should be installed 1/8" lower. Using the old plans will result in an error.
This is why I would not do any cutting off the plan. I wanted to be able to sit down and think it through with the vise in front of me. As I went through it step by step I picked up the changes. Then I started writing to them and went to their site to re-check the version of plans, it was different to the one I downloaded a short while ago. I'm assuming Dan has the original vise and plans as he got his a while ago.
Cap 1 - 5 1/2" - minimal distance. I actually considered having it flush with the base. I made it wider to accept the end cap and to fit a bench dog hole either side of it. Note I don't have bench dog's where the legs are.Quote:
1. What is the distance from the end of the end cap tenon to the leg?
Cap 2 - ~21" - overhang for wagon, and to allow the casework to be held (eg. a blanket box held from the inside.)
I used a 19mm forstner bit to drill ~8cm (maximal travel) on my drill press. Then used a 19mm spade bit in my makita power drill to finish the hole. (With a support piece underneath.Quote:
2. How did you drill the dog holes all the way through (drill press?)
No. I didn't think of that. Strange, I started of considering using wooden screw vices and making the entire thing old school and of wood. I swore I didn't want to use bolts but drawerbore tenons. Then I ended up putting coach screws in to hold the metal, and my sliding leg is half metal anywhere. I don't mind the look of the bolts.Quote:
3. Did you consider reversing the end cap bolts so the holes are not visible? i.e put slots under the table to enable them to slide in then the nuts go up a hole in the bottom ofd the end cap.
I thought about it. To be honest with the tools and experience I have I thought that well done bolted endcaps would be nicer than poorly done dovetails. The other thing is that I can remove the end caps which I thought my be handy considering one has the wagon on it.Quote:
4. No dovetails on the end caps?
Round.Quote:
5. The slide on your wagon vice, is it rounded like the diagrams or, like mine, a new design that is square?
I thought about it. I don't think I'll need it. I think the two leg vices should be sufficent. I have used bench dog holes in both legs to support the piece vertically. I included this even on the leg vice so that I wouldn't be tempted to rest the piece on the screw.Quote:
6. Will you have a crotchet?
Yeah. I have a little be of a murphey moment with my router. I was working on a section and the bearing fell off. Which resulted in a much deeper cut. So I screwed it back on. Tightened it. Then it didn't spin and burnt the wood. :doh:Quote:
And another, it looks like the top of the dog holes are rounded by a router (minor burn below the top) - what radius bit did you use?
I haven't flattened the top yet. So I did a quick round over to prevent chip out when planing. Easy enough. I will re-rout and sand at the end.
To answer your question. I use a CMT 1/8 radius. I rarely take it out of my router and use it on nearly every piece I make.
My bench dogs will be inset 95-100mm from the edge. Is that too far do you think? The leg is 85mm deep and the first beam is 95 deep, so I decided to put the dog holes in the second piece about 10mm in. Then I can drill dog holes in an unobstructed path, I want to use a 100mm spacing so there will be a few holes, plus 2 or 3 lateral rows as well to help hold wider work.
I'll need to drill 130mm so it looks like a mixture for me too. Fiddly, fiddly.Quote:
I used a 19mm forstner bit to drill ~8cm (maximal travel) on my drill press. Then used a 19mm spade bit in my makita power drill to finish the hole. (With a support piece underneath.
I am thinking of either doing the tenons like yourself or using a triple row of dominos. I have bolts exposed on my current bench and I'd rather hide them this time if possible.Quote:
No. I didn't think of that. Strange, I started of considering using wooden screw vices and making the entire thing old school and of wood. I swore I didn't want to use bolts but drawerbore tenons. Then I ended up putting coach screws in to hold the metal, and my sliding leg is half metal anywhere. I don't mind the look of the bolts.
That's a good point. I'm not decided yet and keep changing my mind.Quote:
I thought about it. To be honest with the tools and experience I have I thought that well done bolted endcaps would be nicer than poorly done dovetails. The other thing is that I can remove the end caps which I thought my be handy considering one has the wagon on it.
I agree with you. I think I will just use a holdfast if needed.Quote:
I thought about it. I don't think I'll need it. I think the two leg vices should be sufficent. I have used bench dog holes in both legs to support the piece vertically. I included this even on the leg vice so that I wouldn't be tempted to rest the piece on the screw.
Bugger, I had that happen as I finished an edge for a table. I won't repeat what I said at the time :BQuote:
Yeah. I have a little be of a murphey moment with my router. I was working on a section and the bearing fell off. Which resulted in a much deeper cut. So I screwed it back on. Tightened it. Then it didn't spin and burnt the wood. :doh:
Great idea, consider it pinched :2tsup:Quote:
I haven't flattened the top yet. So I did a quick round over to prevent chip out when planing. Easy enough. I will re-rout and sand at the end.
Ahh, that's a 3mm. I have 2mm and 4mm roundover bits, think I'll need to experiment. The 2mm on the dog holes and 4mm on the edges maybe.Quote:
To answer your question. I use a CMT 1/8 radius. I rarely take it out of my router and use it on nearly every piece I make.
Experimenting with the vice fitting... seems simple enough...