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Thread: Dan's Blackbutt Roubo Bench
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12th January 2010, 07:41 PM #61
by myself...
it's cheaper than gym membership...My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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24th January 2010, 03:39 PM #62
A little progress was made today. With my thicknesser back in action, I machined the sections required for the lower shelf, the parallel bars, and wheel supports.
Photo 1 & 2: 4 legs, 2 chops (vice fronts), and the shelf and other small parts. Photo 2: be machined pieces.
What's the best way to cut tongue and groove joinery with a hand held router?
I'm still waiting for my new vesper square (about 9 months now) before starting on the joinery.My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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26th January 2010, 12:09 AM #63SENIOR MEMBER
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Ok joking I hope!
Very sober, steady hand a slight strain of madness..
You are going to build up a "working" platform for each cut, this is to run the router along and provide a good flat platform.
Good luck not a fun exercise.
Can't you use a bench saw? Ok rough but easier.
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26th January 2010, 09:48 AM #64
Don't have a table saw.... could try the circ... but even I'm not that crazy!
My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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29th January 2010, 10:02 AM #65New Member
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I like the design
Are you able to remove the sliding vise when not in use or is that on all the time. That is a great design though cant wait to see the finished product
JohnWhere the hell did I put that board Stretcher now.
john
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29th January 2010, 11:40 AM #66
Thanks for the feedback. Appreciate it.
You may have noticed I'm a little sporadic with the progress. Depending on other commitments and waiting on new tools or bits etc.
I've left the tongue and groove for now, and have the wood nicely stacked. I used the thicknesser to ensure that all the pieces are the same width. I then clamped a 7 or so together to form a platform for the router... A complicated, inaccurate and scary thing to do. Oh, to have a tongue and groove or slot cutting bit on a table.
Yesterday I started on the end caps...
Planning a staggered tenon with 4 5/16 bolts with captured nuts.My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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29th January 2010, 11:41 AM #67
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5th February 2010, 02:52 AM #68
More work on the end caps.
With chisels I've cleaned and squared the mortises. The chisels in my roll that I use most frequently are made by Irwin and cost me $19.95 for three, and a 6mm Irwin which was ~$20. Don't laugh, but they work well and I'm happy with them. They don't hold an edge for that long (vs. blackbutt) but with the new shapton stones they are quite good. One day I will give a lot of money to harold and saxon... one day... (Also, if anyone knows where I left my 12mm chisel please let me know.)
I then moved to the capture nut holes. I wanted to upgrade my cheap Irwin spade bits for something a little better to cut the bench dog holes. Eventually I decided on another Irwin product. (This is turning into a bit of an ad for irwin...)
A great idea that in practice failed. I used the 20mm auger bit in my makita drill. The leading screw controls both direction and speed. When the larger edge hit the drill jammed. I could not advance it at all into the wood. I switched back to the cheap spade bit and had no hassel at all.
I then squared the outside edge which chisels and rounded the edges with a 1/8 inch CMT round over bit.My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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5th February 2010, 01:56 PM #69
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5th February 2010, 02:03 PM #70
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5th February 2010, 02:15 PM #71
it's the captured nut hiding hole (keep in mind the top is upside down.)
My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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5th February 2010, 03:10 PM #72
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8th February 2010, 02:57 PM #73
Looking good.
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8th February 2010, 03:22 PM #74
I've been pondering chop design. There seem to be two main designs:
1. The Coffin
This means that I need to known the exact length before cutting it, which I'm hesitant to do until it's ready to attach.
2. The Curve
My thoughts:
I prefer to 'the curve'. This means I can set the bottom width to the size of my leg (142mm) and the top width to the size of my board (240mm.) I've been pondering how to go from one width the other. Options include circles cut with 54mm and 48mm forsner bits, a curve the radius needed ~50mm, a straight line (like a coffin.) I also thought I've adding some detail (a design I could copy onto the parallel guides.
I would curve the front of the top and 1/8" round over all edges.
Thoughts welcome.My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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9th February 2010, 01:58 PM #75
CHOP CHOP!
This is the result of the a couple of hours marking out and at the drill press. Tomorrow, I'll straighten the edges with the circ. (The bottom is 142mm - the size of the legs, the top section is 220mm and 240mm).My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/
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