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Thread: Dogs Split Top
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18th October 2016, 07:18 PM #16
They must've had an unexpected rush from their "free shipping" offer - I've been waiting longer than usual for an order to arrive, too. In fact I just sent off an email asking if it's been sent, yet, in case it's gone to the wrong place. The local Oz Post people occasionally mix us up with the same number on a different road, and the recipients don't always rush to sort it out......
Good luck with the bench-build-cum-parenting. Depending on the baby, you might be one of those lucky parents who gets a placid child who'll soon settle into regular habits, or you could be in for quite a long period of very little shed time (DAMHIK!).
Cheers,
PS - could your mystery lesions be due to your palm running along the sharp edge of the board when you were guiding the plane? They look more like that sort of thing than a blade cut, to me......IW
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18th October 2016 07:18 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th October 2016, 12:37 AM #17
Cheers everyone.
Yeah it's been a little over 2 months since I ordered my saw so I suspect it should be here any time now
Ian I've never contemplated that it could have been the timber cutting my hand. It's not a problem any more as I have started wearing my old work gloves in the shop. More to stop the staining than anything else, this Kwila really knows how to turn your hands black.
Today I saw a video by Peter Sellers that piqued my interest. I'll include it below, but needless to say after watching it a few times and taking notes I thought I would give it a crack.
And here are the results;
IMG_0342.jpg IMG_0347.jpg IMG_0349.jpg
They are not perfect by any means, but it's there. A couple of points though.
Firstly I am not as good at this as Mr Sellers. I know it came as a shock to me too. Maybe it has something to do with the fact he's been doing this for the last 40 years though.
Secondly the long faces went pretty well, but the sides of the tenon are fraught with danger using this method. That could explain why Mr Sellers only cut full width tenons with this method. I was going pretty well until the grain took a very sharp turn into my tenon. A very sharp turn indeed. Luckily I caught it in time and carefully pared away around it to save my timber. I will need to glue it back together but the damage is not too bad. I also got a wicked piece of tear out in my tenon face that you can see in pic 3.
Still for a first go I am pretty happy. I don't think that I will cut any more this way, at least not when I am dealing with such large tenons (80mm x 70mm x 40mm).
I will give Henry Eckert a call tomorrow and see where my saw is at.
Stay tuned.
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19th October 2016, 09:39 AM #18
Dogs, that's a perfectly good way to make large tenons, it's the way the old chippies of my father's era formed the tenons on the studs on hardwood framed houses - took them just a few whacks to knock the bulk off & a few swipes cross-grain to clean them up . If the grain is running straight & parallel, it's pretty easy to get a clean tenon with most of our hardwoods, but also easy to make a mess if it's sloped & you don't check, or mis-read it! It's also a lot easier to pare semi-dry wood, which is what they were mostly using. In any case, if they are 'through' tenons, you can do a lot to remedy a bit of laxity in your joint by the judicious application of a wedge or two...
Cheers,IW
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19th October 2016, 10:13 AM #19
actually I was going to ask whether you were wedging or drawboring?
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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19th October 2016, 11:02 AM #20
Thanks again fellas.
Hmmm I may give this another go then. Currently everything is a learning experience and so long as I don't totally screw the pooch I might just come out OK. I guess it's not like I'm sawing particularly straight at the moment either.
They're not through tenons but will be pinned.
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21st October 2016, 02:17 PM #21
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21st October 2016, 02:59 PM #22Member
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21st October 2016, 04:24 PM #23
Brilliant thanks mate.
I can get some sleep now, that is if His Majesty lets me
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22nd October 2016, 02:59 PM #24
Ok everyone my next big question.
I have purchased a Lake Erie wood screw for my leg vise. It's a thing of beauty for sure, however today when I went to do a trial fit through a newly excavated mortise through my front leg I hit a snag. The vise is binding.
At first I thought it might be snagging on the mortise, so I took everything out and just ran the screw through its block. Still binding. So I added some carnauba wax to help with lubrication, still binding. This is really perplexing me.
When I first bought the screw it worked fine, I know I checked it. Since then its been sitting on the shelf waiting for the install. Is there a chance the extreme humidity up here has swollen the block enough to bind the screw??
I was considering running some 240 grit sandpaper through the inside of the block to see if it will loosen things up enough to get things to work, but I though I would ask questions first before I start modifying what is a rather expensive bit of timber.
Has anyone had this happen before?? Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this??
I'll post some videos next time His Majesty goes to sleep and I get some more time to myself. Maybe around midnight
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22nd October 2016, 03:36 PM #25
Same, and I live in Canberra! Used to be a couple of shops, now nothing.
I have two HNT planes, the trying and shoulder planes. Trying plane was pretty easy to set up as it has screw adjustment but shoulder plane is just wedge in. Much more difficult to set up.
Sent an email to Gordon and he replied same day with some tips, plus I'll go watch some demos when he's at Canberra TWWW show next month.
Even though harder to set up I really like both planes and definitely prefer the solid wood body shoulder plane over iron.
Stick with it if you can!
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22nd October 2016, 06:21 PM #26
Not at all perplexing, Dogs, these blokes are simply making their screws & nuts to too close tolerances, using nicely kilned wood at a low MC. You've got to suppress the desire for precision fits when dealing with wooden screws, and allow a decent margin for seasonal movement, particuarly if sending them to a moist climate. You're not the first to have this trouble from what I've heard on the grapevine.
If it was a screw you'd made yourself, the fix would be dead easy - just pop it back in the threading jig & cut the thread a little sloppier by advancing the cutter slightly (very slightly). The trick is to thread it all the way in, and cut as you wind out, otherwise you'll cut a slightly different pitch if you simply feed the screw into a running cutter & wreck the whole screw. I discovered this many years ago, trying to correct a too-tight thread - quite obvious in hind-sight, of course.
Given your current location, you will need a screw & nut that's sized for a high MC situation, I think. Is your screw shank size 2 inches? As it happens, after my recent burst of wood threading for the AWR articles, I have a couple of spare 2" 3tpi screws, so I'd be happy to help out given as you're stranded on a remote island. My screws are made for Brisbane conditions, which probably aren't as moist for as long as TI, but I'm pretty sure they'd still work fine there. PM me if interested, & we can organise a mercy drop. You can at least get your vise working for now, & keep the other screw til you move into a drier climate....
Cheers,IW
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22nd October 2016, 07:53 PM #27
Hey nice offer!
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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22nd October 2016, 09:38 PM #28
Wow thanks mate I really appreciate the offer.
Unfortunately this is a 2 1/2 inch screw. I do have a backup in the form of a metal screw purchased before I decided to go with the timber one. I am reluctant to use it until I have exhausted all avenues for getting this screw to work. Mostly because I have just finished excavating a 65mm square through mortise in 120mm of hardwood by hand.
I will break out some sandpaper and gradually work on the screw and nut until I have a fit. Hopefully that works.
Stay tuned.
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23rd October 2016, 08:25 AM #29
Hmm, I've tried a few remedies other than the 'proper' fix, but it's a tedious business. My suggestion would be to try working on the screw, first. I'd use a coarse 3-cornered file rather than sandpaper (I don't like the thought of all those shed abrasive particles embedding themselves in your thread). If you have a lathe or can jury-rig something to hold the screw while you turn it by hand against the file, you should be able to skim off a few thou and keep it neat. It takes quite a bit longer than you may expect, but you should eventually produce a free-running thread.
If you had a lathe, or access to one, you could make a tap to match your thread, like the one I described in the last AWR. With that, you could either clean out the nut that came with the screw - it would only take one or two very light passes to get it working freely, I'm sure. With your own tap, you can make nuts directly in the bench parts & save mucking about letting-in bulky nuts. A much neater & more convenient solution for something like a like tail vice: V9.jpg or you can tap the apron to make a 'Moxon' style vise :Done & dusted.jpg
But I'm getting ahead of the game - I'm sure you just want to get this bench up & running before you get carried away with other projects!IW
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27th October 2016, 12:21 AM #30
Thanks again Ian.
I'll look into the file option. I've gotten a hard toothbrush into the nut to give it a good clean out and tried lubricating everything again. Still resistance. I was kind of hoping that with a bit of in out action it might loosen up but unfortunately this thing is tighter than hipsters jeans.
My tenon saw turned up so I have shelved the screw while I finish off the short stretchers. I've not really got anything to hold the timber in place while I saw so I have clamped a block to my bench then clamped the piece to that. It's not great, is way too high and still moves an awful lot but it's the best I have got at the moment. This is why I need to build a proper bench
IMG_0355.jpg IMG_0356.jpg IMG_0357.jpg
Long and close up shot of the "vise". Top and bottom short stretchers completed.
Now all I have to do is excavate the mortises and get everything test fit. Time to break out the mortise chisels and get hammering.
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