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  1. #16
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    Just won a Stanley No. 78 off eBay. Looks like I am going to be making ship-lap boards for the rear of my tool chest.

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  3. #17
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    Oct 2013
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by hartleymartin View Post
    Just won a Stanley No. 78 off eBay. Looks like I am going to be making ship-lap boards for the rear of my tool chest.
    Nice

    You might also consider installing draws. I installed these after I used the chest for a while and realised I really needed space for small tools.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #18
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    Mar 2020
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    Sydney, Australia
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    What size drawers did you make? I was thinking of just knocking them up from 12mm pine and/or Tasmanian oak with plywood or mdf drawer bottoms.

    I started thinking about putting drawers in as a place to keep things like my brad drill set. I am waiting for a few of my specialty planes and other tools to arrive before committing to the final dimensions of the tool chest. I have a set of Mathieson Wooden-bodied planes: Smoothing, Fore, Trying. These are taller than metal-bodied planes, so my tool-chest may be an in-between of the small and large Chris Schwarz drawings. (A "medium size" perhaps?)

  5. #19
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    Mar 2020
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    Do you think a 600mm piano hinge would suffice for the lid? I made the fateful choice to buy brass hardware and it turns out you can't get strap hinges in the sizes needed for this build.

  6. #20
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    Oct 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by hartleymartin View Post
    What size drawers did you make? I was thinking of just knocking them up from 12mm pine and/or Tasmanian oak with plywood or mdf drawer bottoms.

    I started thinking about putting drawers in as a place to keep things like my brad drill set. I am waiting for a few of my specialty planes and other tools to arrive before committing to the final dimensions of the tool chest. I have a set of Mathieson Wooden-bodied planes: Smoothing, Fore, Trying. These are taller than metal-bodied planes, so my tool-chest may be an in-between of the small and large Chris Schwarz drawings. (A "medium size" perhaps?)
    These were around 50mm high. I made them pretty traditionally with dovetails, used blackwood fronts & silt oak back, sides and bottoms that I had milled myself.

  7. #21
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    Oct 2013
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by hartleymartin View Post
    Do you think a 600mm piano hinge would suffice for the lid? I made the fateful choice to buy brass hardware and it turns out you can't get strap hinges in the sizes needed for this build.
    I think that'll work well. The main thing to look out for is not stressing the hinges when the lid is open. The hinges won't go the distance of they are continuously being stressed with the weight of the lid open on them - so it's good to have a strap to support the door, or some other support mechanism.

  8. #22
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    Mar 2020
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    Sydney, Australia
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    Hinges 88x53.jpg
    I'm tossing between using a 600mm piano hing and using a few of these. 88x53mm Tee-Hinges. I bought 4, and I hope that this should be plenty of hardware.

    I think I have a serious weakness for polished brass. Just looking for corner straps now.

  9. #23
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    Mar 2020
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    I wonder if the dovetailed bottom is strictly necessary. I'm hoping a combination of dowels and screws should do the job since I don't have a lot of time to spend on joinery. My recent improvements to my garage mean that I have to move somewhat quickly to get the whole job done.

  10. #24
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    Dec 2010
    Location
    Townsville
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    115

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    Quote Originally Posted by hartleymartin View Post
    I wonder if the dovetailed bottom is strictly necessary. I'm hoping a combination of dowels and screws should do the job since I don't have a lot of time to spend on joinery. My recent improvements to my garage mean that I have to move somewhat quickly to get the whole job done.
    Hi all
    I thought the dovetailing was for the strength, a bit of weight in it with all the tools.
    I dovetailed the bottom of mine (following the CS plan) but all the rest (including the drawer) is rabbets glue and screws.
    Having said that I don't pick mine up much, too heavy with everything in it. So it will probably be ok.

  11. #25
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    Well, the bottom doesn't carry all the weight of the tools. The dado transfers the weight of the top section directly to the sides. Perhaps it depends on exactly what you put into the bottom compartment. At this stage I am planning to put a shallow drawer into the top of that section and the bottom will probably contain a couple of tool rolls with drills/brace bits, some files and a few moulding planes.

  12. #26
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    Dec 2010
    Location
    Townsville
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    I just went and checked mine. Yep, shelf in the middle is in a dado, then screwed into place. Bottom is dovetailed. Everything else is glued and screwed. I added a drawer later, as I have lots of small tools. It would have been a disaster if it hadn't been glued and screwed after the floods up here last year.
    The water came up to 1100 mm in shed after they let the dam go, so 200 over the top of the benches.
    Hence my Dutch tool chest was half submerged.
    I took this photo when a neighbour offered to help me carry anything out I wanted to save.
    We carried it out ( I did say it was heavy)
    The people who put us up for a couple of weeks had a shed, so later that evening over a few beers we removed all the contents, stripped and dipped them all in CRC.
    Over the next weeks I scrubbed almost everything with scotchbrites and reassembled it all. Therapy.
    The only issues were the fall front and the drawer. The fall front retaining lock stick eventually came out, then the front levered out. The drawer would not budge. It had swollen and jammed in there. I had to remove it to get to the tools. I ended up taking out the drawer slides then using a small crow bar, levering it down and out.
    Anyway through all this the construction stayed rock solid. Considering mine only has dovetails on bottom, and glue and screws for everything else I'm sure a chest with screws and glue only would be fine.
    And I'm sure you won't subject it to anything like this event.
    It wasn't happy for a couple of weeks, but I let it dry out, and the drawer and fall front all went back together easily after a month.
    My wife wanted me to make a new one (It's been in poo water!) but I'm a bit attached to it, especially after going in and retrieving it.
    I just sanded it a bit (milk paint doesn't like water) inside and out, and repainted it in a very haphazard manner.

    I wasn't going to post, but CS posted something this morning on LAP about a woodworkers shop that a very large tree fell on. It destroyed his workbench, but all his tools were safely in his Anarchists tool chest, with the lid closed, so all his tools were safe and dry from the rain.
    Pedro
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #27
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    Mar 2020
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    Sydney, Australia
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    I suppose there is little else for it other than to try it out. I'm just waiting on some tools to arrive. I bought a hand mitre saw online about 8 weeks ago and it had a defective saw blade. Still waiting for the sellers to send me a replacement saw blade! I did re-sharpen my 12" Tenon saw and 22" Rip-cut panel saw. I need to figure out what I am going to do for a cross-cut saw at the moment. Managed to buy a set of wooden tongue-and-groove planes, and I have most of the brass hardware now. Once all the tools and hardware are on the workbench I'll go out and buy some timber.

    I had thought about using Bunnings 12mm T&G board, but took advice that they may be too flimsy. So I scored me a set of T&G planes on eBay. I would like one of the Stanley combination planes, but after scoring these and a small lot of moulding planes, I think I'll be good for a while. I've got some fine steel wool, linseed oil and other good things waiting for these. I think half the fun is collecting and restoring old tools to do these jobs.

    TG01.jpg

    01.jpg

  14. #28
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    Dec 2010
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    Townsville
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    115

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    Good luck with it. Mine is made out of Bunnings 19mm pine boards that I scored from my old boss. He'd being using it as shelving.

  15. #29
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    Mar 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by StevenManos View Post
    Nice

    You might also consider installing draws. I installed these after I used the chest for a while and realised I really needed space for small tools.

    I've been pouring over the drawings and of course, I have realised that I need to get all my specialty planes into my hands (waiting for Australia Post to deliver them) before I can settle the overall dimensions. I plan to make it possible to stand them up in the traditional manner in the bottom compartment and also have some drawers. Well, still debating whether it should be one big drawer or a number of drawers, but as long as I allow the space for it they can be fitted later.

    Planning to get the timber for the bottom, sides and shelf on Thursday. I've even got myself and protractor gauge! Carefully lined up most of the tools that will go into it. Realised that I still need several more tools such as a carcass saw or sash saw, some gauges and a few other odds and ends.

  16. #30
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    Mar 2020
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    So I got this Rabbet Plane. Cleaned and restored it, fitted a new wedge for the main cutter, thoroughly cleaned it and gave it a fresh coat of linseed oil and then paste wax. Unfortunately, the cutter is only 5/16" (8mm) wide - not a very useful size for me - and I find the fence not particularly effective. It is a nice tool, so I have listed it on eBay, but I thought I would share the pictures of the restored plane here. I had hoped to use this to make the ship-lap boards for the back of the tool-chest, but I scored a set of tongue-and-groove planes (yet to arrive). This one was part of a lot of old planes. I've got a nice Ovolo and a couple of beading planes which will go into the kit.

    94129621_10157958734286251_1164799975398309888_o.jpg

    93787394_10157958734271251_3439942017214316544_o.jpg

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