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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Melbourne
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    93

    Default Dutch tool chest pics

    Hola everyone,

    In an effort to get my hand tools out of the dust I have been working on a dutch tool chest, made popular in recent times by C. Schwartz. It was a really simple project that I slowly tinkered away at over a few weeks and finished it over the weekend. Spent around $90 on pine boards to build it all and bought the hinge & hasp hardware from Goods and Chattels. The lock was from my travels in India in 2004. Still some work to do in fitting our the inside with a nice saw till and carving some handles for the sides.

    Next, a roubo-esque workbench!

    S.

    1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg9.jpg10.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Sydney
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    16

    Default

    Looks pretty good to me, clean lines, simple construction and functional. I especially like the shot of the chest in the shop, very artsy, looks like it belongs there and has been there for years. What are the dimensions? l like this style of chest and have watched a couple of videos of Schwartz demonstrating it. I am still undecided whether to build one like this or a Seaton/anarchist style chest to house my meagre tool collection in. Currently building my Roubo style bench and this will be the next project.

    Cheers Jason

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
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    93

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JRW1970 View Post
    Looks pretty good to me, clean lines, simple construction and functional. I especially like the shot of the chest in the shop, very artsy, looks like it belongs there and has been there for years. What are the dimensions? l like this style of chest and have watched a couple of videos of Schwartz demonstrating it. I am still undecided whether to build one like this or a Seaton/anarchist style chest to house my meagre tool collection in. Currently building my Roubo style bench and this will be the next project.
    Thanks! I will eventually build a anarchist style chest.. once I have the tools and the room. This was a good balance of an easier/faster build while still being really spacious for a small collection of tools.

    Outside dimensions are 69cm high at the back, 70cm wide and 32cm deep.

    S.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    656

    Default

    Looks great. I like the rack for holding chisels etc at the back and also the sloped top..... much harder to stack stuff on top of !

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,303

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    Well done on building a tool chest.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Age
    34
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Sorry to perform thread necromancy, but I do have to ask about the arrangement of hinges on the Dutch Tool Chest. I am thinking about building one for myself - the sloped lid is the main attraction - stops me from piling things on top! I've been working on drawings that use standard DAR pine available from bunnings, which are almost the same as some of the US/UK measurements. Who knew that a 285x19mm board was basically the same as a Dressed 12"x1"?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Woodstock (Cowra)
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,800

    Default

    Photo 6 & 8
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    Sydney, Australia
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    34
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    78

    Default

    There is no picture showing the hinges attached to the back of the box.

  10. #9
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    Mar 2020
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    Sydney, Australia
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    What timber should be used for the back? I see that 19mm pine tongue-and-groove is recommended, but I can't seem to find it anywhere, and I don't have a T&G plane. Will 12mm T&G lining board be too thin for the back?

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
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    93

    Default

    Happy to take some pics of the hinges and post then when I am in the workshop next.

  12. #11
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    Oct 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hartleymartin View Post
    What timber should be used for the back? I see that 19mm pine tongue-and-groove is recommended, but I can't seem to find it anywhere, and I don't have a T&G plane. Will 12mm T&G lining board be too thin for the back?
    Yes. I think 12mm pine is too weak. If all else fails Bunnings stock 19mm pine boards. I used shiplapped joins on the back .

  13. #12
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    Mar 2020
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    Sydney, Australia
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    Default

    Already worked out all the DAR Pine Boards I will need for the project. I've got brass chest handles on their way.

    The only things I still need to do are:

    - Work out how I am going to do the back. I had considered acquiring a power outer+bits, but is almost as expensive as buying a Lie-Neilson T&G plane. Also, I don't have any form of dust extraction and the noise will make my unpopular with the domestic authority! I'm mostly a hand-tool guy because I don't have space to set up power tools, and I like to work in the evenings. I don't have a table saw to do ship-lap either. I don't even have a rabbet or shoulder plane. But this would be a good excuse to get the Lie-Neilson. (Unless someone has one they will loan and trusts me to return it!)

    - Make a decision on the hinges I will use. I really, really want something in solid brass. I'm a bit put off by iron or steel hardware. This may be largely because I just like brass and have already ordered chest lifts in solid polished brass. I have a small wooden toolbox I made in high school which will also get brassed up in this manner! Perhaps I just prefer having brass because I used to be a Navy Cadet.

    - Find brass corner straps. Yeah, I want to do brass corner straps on this one. I may also do them on my small toolbox. Most brass angle brackets I an find have the counter-sinks on the wrong side.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    St Georges Basin
    Posts
    972

    Default

    I made one for my Dutch son-in-law as a wedding present. He didn't know what it was, neither did the in-law family. What a waste!
    I used a whole sheet of ply and it just cut out nicely. The edges and joints went into some ally mouldings, pop rivetted together, very similar to some flight cases I have made. I put casters on the bottom too.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
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    93

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hartleymartin View Post
    Already worked out all the DAR Pine Boards I will need for the project. I've got brass chest handles on their way.
    - Work out how I am going to do the back. I had considered acquiring a power outer+bits, but is almost as expensive as buying a Lie-Neilson T&G plane. Also, I don't have any form of dust extraction and the noise will make my unpopular with the domestic authority! I'm mostly a hand-tool guy because I don't have space to set up power tools, and I like to work in the evenings. I don't have a table saw to do ship-lap either. I don't even have a rabbet or shoulder plane. But this would be a good excuse to get the Lie-Neilson. (Unless someone has one they will loan and trusts me to return it!)
    Shiplapped works really well, too, and it's slightly easier to achieve using a rabbet plane, table saw, or even a trim router and straight bit.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
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    Sydney, Australia
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    34
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    78

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    I have none of those tools. Looking at getting a rabbet plane, or making one according to one of Rex Krueger's videos. If I am lucky, one will turn up on eBay. I would love a vintage timber-bodied rabbet plane.

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