Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Mackay
    Posts
    60

    Default Finish for a Workbench

    I am currently making a bench out of repurposed hardwood 4 x 2's. I am wondering what most people finish it with. I was thinking of something like Danish oil.
    Any pros or cons would be appreciated.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    938

    Default

    Gday Quinny01

    I used an outdoor furniture oil (from Masters) because it would dry properly.
    No regrets, probably due for a re do soon, been a couple of years or so.

    cheers
    Keith

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,880

    Default

    The traditional bench finish is boiled linseed oil but the first two suggestions would be ok also. Quite often it's whatever finish you have laying around. Oil finishes are easier to touch up down the track when things start looking a bit shabby.
    Regards
    John

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,803

    Default

    Don't use more than a single coat on top (of whatever oil you choose - Danish Oil is fine). No wax! The idea is to avoid a slippery surface. The sides, etc can have a few coats.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

    Default

    I have used boiled linseed oil for my top. I also used that for the wooded handled garden tools after the original polish comes off.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,095

    Default

    Hi guys

    Danish Oil is essentially a mixture of boilded linseed, polyurethane and turps. To avoid surface build up I think it should be applied as wipe-on rather than with a paint brush. And don't forget to coat all surfaces to stop uneven drying and timber movement. I like an extra coat on end grain and in the dog holes.

    Traditionalists may prefer to leave out the poly and put on some extra coats. Remember BLO dries slowly.

    Cheers

    Graeme

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Not far enough away from Melbourne
    Posts
    4,200

    Default

    Grandad's secret formula.

    - 1 Ltr Boiled Linseed Oil

    - 1 Ltr Pure Gum Turpentine

    - finely grated piece of beeswax about the size of a hen's egg

    Mix it all together, let it sit for a couple of days for everything to soften together. Shake well before applying.

    Apply heavily and allow to soak in overnight, wipe up the excess and return to the jar for next time.

    Allow to dry and buff lightly with a soft cloth. Reapply every year or so as required.

    Beautiful surface to work on, not slippery at all.

    Keep the jar in a cool place. It will last for years.
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Éire
    Age
    39
    Posts
    293

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Hi guys

    Danish Oil is essentially a mixture of boilded linseed, polyurethane and turps. To avoid surface build up I think it should be applied as wipe-on rather than with a paint brush. And don't forget to coat all surfaces to stop uneven drying and timber movement. I like an extra coat on end grain and in the dog holes.

    Traditionalists may prefer to leave out the poly and put on some extra coats. Remember BLO dries slowly.

    Cheers

    Graeme
    I wonder if everyone agrees with sealing dog holes, I was thinking for a while asking if applying anything was a good idea.
    I have been using titebond drippings to seal timbers recently so thought I might ask also.
    Gonna give the Cosman "a better bench dog" bench dogs a go, but might try finding better springs.
    What do ya think? will applying anything whether it be a finish glue. or even both be a good idea based on the design?
    I made my dogs at 88 degrees like the Klausz plans if that comes into the equation.


    Tom

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Thursday Island
    Age
    49
    Posts
    99

    Default

    I used Organoil Danish Oil on mine.

    It doesn't have the poly mixed in and is just an oil finish. It's holding up really well so far. It will get a re-coat after my finished bench goes through it's first full wet season and I re-flatten it.
    The only issue is the very strong orange aroma that can take quite a while to dissipate. Ventilation is your friend when using this danish oil mix on a large surface.
    I, for one, like Roman Numerals

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Hobart
    Age
    77
    Posts
    646

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doug3030 View Post
    Grandad's secret formula.

    - 1 Ltr Boiled Linseed Oil

    - 1 Ltr Pure Gum Turpentine

    - finely grated piece of beeswax about the size of a hen's egg

    Mix it all together, let it sit for a couple of days for everything to soften together. Shake well before applying.

    Apply heavily and allow to soak in overnight, wipe up the excess and return to the jar for next time.

    Allow to dry and buff lightly with a soft cloth. Reapply every year or so as required.

    Beautiful surface to work on, not slippery at all.

    Keep the jar in a cool place. It will last for years.
    Doug3030

    Thanks for the recipe! Does it work for tool handles too?

    Yvan

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Not far enough away from Melbourne
    Posts
    4,200

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by yvan View Post
    Thanks for the recipe! Does it work for tool handles too?
    Absolutely

    I've used it on lathe tools, hammers, mallets, axes, brooms, mops etc

    If it's got a wooden handle and is at my place, it has had a coat of it.
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    507

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doug3030 View Post
    Grandad's secret formula.

    Apply heavily and allow to soak in overnight, wipe up the excess and return to the jar for next time.

    Allow to dry and buff lightly with a soft cloth. Reapply every year or so as required.

    Beautiful surface to work on, not slippery at all.

    Keep the jar in a cool place. It will last for years.
    Doug
    A bit of further clarification if you wouldn't mind.
    After allowing it to soak in over night what is left to wipe up and return to the jar?
    Also is the application done with a brush or some other method?
    Thanks

  14. #13
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Not far enough away from Melbourne
    Posts
    4,200

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Huon pine fan View Post
    After allowing it to soak in over night what is left to wipe up and return to the jar?
    This only happens on large flat surfaces like the benchtop. Usually there is not too much once you get a feel for how much to put on. The message in the statement is really that if you put too much on it doesn't go to waste - if you really go overboard you can just put it back in the jar. Generally I find that any small excess on the benchtop, where it can pool, can be spread to other parts of the bench or wipe the cloth over some tool handles until it is used up..

    Quote Originally Posted by Huon pine fan View Post
    Also is the application done with a brush or some other method?
    Whatever you use to apply it, don't plan on using it again. It fairly ruins paint brushes and cloths, which is what I generally apply it with. $2 shop paint brushes work ok.
    I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    36
    Posts
    156

    Default

    Hey Quinny01,

    I just finished a small roubo workbench (I'll post the build on here, so do keep an eye out) and basically finished the work surface with Livos Universal Oil (Danish Oil is basically the same), whilst the base and undercarriage were given several coats of Wattyl Estapol Tung Oil floor varnish, which is bombproof. That way the work surface wont have any glue sticking to it and is really easily recoatable, whilst the base will be tough as a basketball court.

    Cheers,
    SiggyKC

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Mackay
    Posts
    60

    Default

    Thanks for everyones advice - I ended up going with boiled linseed oil. Just got to work out what to do in the middle, draws cupboards etc, and probably replace the vise with a larger one20200105_172205.jpg

Similar Threads

  1. Finish for workbench
    By Wild Dingo in forum THE WORK BENCH
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 23rd June 2007, 02:40 AM
  2. Finish for workbench top
    By McFly in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 4th June 2006, 10:23 PM
  3. Workbench Finish
    By TOMARTOM in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 24th October 2003, 08:50 PM
  4. Workbench top finish
    By Sasha in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 3rd March 2003, 11:04 AM
  5. Workbench finish
    By Angelo in forum THE WORK BENCH
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 6th January 2000, 02:18 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •