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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,785

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cgcc View Post
    However I have noticed that workbenches kept very nicely tend to often exist in large shops where there is room to take messy or rough tasks elsewhere. I have half a car space so I also mount my drill press and bench grinder onto the bench (they're bolted into a piece of wood with section that will drop into the front vice). I also occasionally will use paint or stain or glue or do something like try and flatten something on a granite block with sandpaper which sends metal fines everywhere. If I do something like hacksaw a section off a screw to make it smaller, it's a little metal vice on the bench and fines going everywhere.
    I'm in the same boat. I have a separate 2.4M X 900mm Tassie Oak top bench I built specifically for assembly and rough work like repairing chainsaws etc but that is permanently covered with machinery (large belt sander, metal work tooling and a hydraulic press) and crap so I end up doing rough stuff and a lot of electrical work on my WW work bench. I really need to do something about this.

    BTW have seen Derek's workbench Bench and its even better in the flesh so to speak. Someday - one day - Maybe, SIGH.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Townsville
    Posts
    130

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    Hi all
    I've just finished my bench. It's my third bench. First was a cheap store bought one. It was thin and moved alot no matter what. But I liked the dog holes for clamping everywhere.
    2nd was a a roubo style in pine. The top was a piece of bowling alley floor. It was good but the bowling alley top glue didn't like the pressure of dog holes and clamping. It split in a few places. The flood last year finished it off. No resurrecting it.
    I built the last one out of what I could get cheaply. Turned out to be an old pergola in red ironbark. I also had a new thicknesser jointer which meant I could process the timber myself.
    It's pretty dark now it has oil on it. I agree it is better to have a light surface to work on, much easier to see stuff. But the timber only cost me 300 bucks. If I could choose I would have used Vic ash. But it would have cost me lots more, I would have made the top thinner to save money and I might have had to skimp on the vices
    Not sure about it being too hard to work on. It feels better than my pine one did. Best thing I ever did though was buy a dead blow mallet during assembly. Pounding it together was sure unforgiving.
    I know I don't want to make another one for a while.
    The design works for me. I love the flat reference face for clamping.
    Not sure what it weighs. But lots. I can slide it around with some effort. But it doesn't move when I'm working on it. At all.
    Pedro

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,983

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    My Roubo is in blacbutt which at times can be a splitty bugger. some tear out and reversing grain as well.
    Other times it's ok.
    Titebond 3 ok.
    Epoxy ok.

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