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  1. #1
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    Red face I hope there is no such thing as a silly question

    G'day all,
    I'm not going to pretend there is a simple answer, as when it comes to woodworking there never is. I am beginning to plan my workbench build, and other than the usual questions of vices, bench dogs and timber selection, I have one that has me stumped!

    Most workbenches that are built seem to have legs and open space below them. There are a few designs with cupboards below them, but not nearly as many. As the shed space gets eaten up by other machinery, I was wondering why most designs have open undercarriages? Is it a portability issue, in that without tools underneath it is able to be picked up? Or easier to keep clean as the shaving etc just fall to the floor.

    Am I too worried about precious realestate going to waste?

    The way I am thinking is I will use a classic design, with mortice and tennon legs/crossmembers to keep it as rigid as possible, then build a carcass that slips under the bench to utilise the space, but kept back from the front row of dog holes to allow shavings to fall through.

    I will post wip shots etc one underway of course, and I think I have sourced some tallow wood for the top

    Thanks,
    Gab

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  3. #2
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    I've never liked the huge open space under traditional benches.

    The one I built a few years ago has drawers one one side and a single open area on the other. The open area was intended to take large bulky items like my guillotine and scroll saw that actually fit onto the bench when in use anyway. The bench vise is above the open area.

    The downside is you can't use traditional bench dogs on the section with drawers. You can cut holes in the open side ok but above the drawers I was going to use those recessed thingy's that pop up with the turn of a screw. As it is I have a few inches of overhang all round where I can use normal clamps to hold things down so I've never actually needed dogs, so my work top still remains dog hole free.

  4. #3
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    I intend building a drawer unit to go under mine and as saihave to leave room for the holdfasts. Intend coming out to the front of the bench. I will hace a closed top on the unit so shaveings wony be a problem.
    My old bench was completly boxed in with doors in front. The good thing about this is it makes the whole structure very rigid and helps prevent wracking. Later on when I made dog holes it did fill up with dust and shaveings.
    Regards
    John

  5. #4
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    I think you will also notice most pictures of work benches are all shiny and new. In other words they haven't used them yet, and discovered that they need storage for all the stuff that gets shoved under the bench.

    2dworth.jpg
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  6. #5
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    I think tradition and the fact that many woodworkers didn't have many tools and different types of fasteners is in there somewhere.
    Why build drawers and shelves for things you don't have.

  7. #6
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    Don't plan too long. I've been "planning" my bench build for 3 years now.

  8. #7
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    I've sometimes wondered about the same thing... and whether it'd be worthwhile running a small (2"ish?) duct between each run or line of dog holes. So you could attach a vac-cleaner to one of the end-most holes and suck the carp outta t'others.

    I think it may be more heartache than gain to try to set up, but I don't know for sure and also haven't heard of anyone putting it to the test.

    One day I might try a small test build, but not today.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  9. #8
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    The pictures I have seen of traditional workshop work benches in situ uniformly show that the area under the bench is reserved for the storage of various pieces of wood - likely also a rodent nesting area. Further, how are you going to mount a pattern makers vise if you have a cabinet below?

  10. #9
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    I have draws under my bench except under the section with the vice. Just by good luck I can push them back and it leaves me a lip to use with clamps. It would have been a disaster otherwise. I do sometimes wish I could use hold fasts though.

    Sent from my GT-P3110 using Tapatalk

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    I've sometimes wondered about the same thing... and whether it'd be worthwhile running a small (2"ish?) duct between each run or line of dog holes. So you could attach a vac-cleaner to one of the end-most holes and suck the carp outta t'others.
    Instead of a dust for each line of dog holes what about completely sealed chamber connected to a DC so then of could also double as a down draft sanding table?

  12. #11
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    Orraloon's on the money I reckon - separate Drawers/trays/cupboards that can be easily removed when you want to reconfigure. This is what I intend to do. Make them the height that will allow for holdfasts if you want to use them, or you could consider T-Track, and try to avoid holes altogether.





    I've been using that for a while (but not intensely) and I haven't found it wanting yet. Last weekend I made a new version of the black Track Stop that uses a cam clamp (only usable for timber thickness >20mm approx, but mostly it is). The cam clamp works really well.

    It'll be tested out by a couple of dozen burly woodies on Sunday.....I do hope I'm not embarrassed.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  13. #12
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    Whoa, Thanks guys.....

    This really has made me think a little more. Fencefurniture, that clamp system looks great and am very tempted to go down that route as it would mean that there would be no need to worry about dog holes as you said. No holes to fill up with crap which means more use of the space under the table. As far as the configuration below the bench is concerned, I was thinking that I would make it mostly for hand tools as they seem not to change too much over the years so I could accomodate most without worry of 'upgrading' to to the latest that doesn't quite fit in the old hole.

    With that dog setup Fencefurniture, would it be possible to recess the track another 20mm so I could put a cover strap over it when not in use? Use slightly larger dogs? The reason for this is that I think that would need to run along the front of my bench and as it is against a wall, when its not being used, I would still have a flat bench surface to work on.

    I have attached a proposed layout of my shop so you understand my issue with space, thus almost cramming the vices in rather than spacing them apart.



    shop layout.jpg

    Thanks again for the input guys, now if only my inspiration could turn to motivation and actally start the build!!

    Cheers

    Gab

  14. #13
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    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabriel View Post
    With that dog setup Fencefurniture, would it be possible to recess the track another 20mm so I could put a cover strap over it when not in use? Use slightly larger dogs? The reason for this is that I think that would need to run along the front of my bench and as it is against a wall, when its not being used, I would still have a flat bench surface to work on.
    Gab, I too have an issue with space. The answer to your question is.....nope! The track sits about ¼mm below the timber, or you can make it flush if you like. Using the bench for other stuff hasn't been an issue so far.

    I believe that Carbatec have a track filler for Veritas track, but take your money with you. I used McJings Track which is $35 for 2.5 metres (not anodised). I also have a track in the front and back aprons.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  15. #14
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    I can't see why there can't be a a gap of about 12 " (300mm) between thw bottom of the top and the top of a set of drawers or cabinet
    enought clearance for holdfasts and clamps.
    and a handy spot to place saw, plane, chisel etc whilst working, rather than on the bench top
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    I can't see why there can't be a a gap of about 12 " (300mm) between thw bottom of the top and the top of a set of drawers or cabinet
    enought clearance for holdfasts and clamps.
    and a handy spot to place saw, plane, chisel etc whilst working, rather than on the bench top
    Yep, that's the simple solution, SM. My under-bench cupboards stop at about the level of the apron, which is necessary to open drawers & doors, of course, but allows plenty of room for dogs & holdfasts above. The cupboards are set back enough that the rubbish from the front row of dog holes falls to the floor. The other dog holes are either to the left or behind the cupboard area, so very little stuff accumulates on the cupboard tops, fortunately. This layout suits me, but everyone has different needs.

    Bench cupboards.jpg

    I think a number of valid reasons for leaving benches open have been advanced. Two other reasons for not utilising the under-bench area for storage that I didn't see above are:
    1. It's not the most convenient place to store anything you need regularly. You'd be surprised how many times you have a bulky object clamped in the vise, and realise you want something in one of the drawers! So I don't keep any 'high use' tools there. I also didn't put anything behind the front vice, as it would have been awkward to get at even when the vise wasn't in use.
    2. I often drag my bench about to make it more convenient to work on some jobs, & if it were on a full cupboard base filled with tools & paraphernalia, that would not be too easy!

    As for most of us, my shed is too small & I'd love to utilise every available bit of storage space, myself. If my shed was twice as big, I think I would have my bench in the middle of the room, on a full cupboard base (with the drawers & doors mostly opening to the sides & back)...

    But then again, if my shed was twice as big, I would have plenty of room for storage without the under-bench area, wouldn't I?
    (maybe)

    Cheers,
    IW

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