Thread: Saw horse bench top questions

For years, all I’ve used is two 290x45 boards about 3300 long, put the saw at one end with a couple of roof screws, and make a block the same height as the saw base to hold the cut timber level with the saw. You can cut on it, screw jigs and holding blocks to the planks, use it as a bench, sit on it to eat lunch, whatever.

As per riverbuilder a couple of lengths of framing pine screwed or nailed together and mount the mitre saw to those. Same for sheet cutting. Two lengths of framing pine across the saw horses cheap sacrificial top,
cheers

As the other 2 said EXCEPT DON'T USE THOSE CHEAP AND NASTY FOLDING TYPE FROM the big green shed saw horses , they are a dangerous accident looking for somewhere to happen
Make some strong sturdy timber ones, plenty designs on the net.

I built two very similar to these
Saturday Morning Workshop: How To Build An Adjustable Sawhorse (DIY)

can’t find my original plan (ie can’t remember where) it may be a hard copy from a woodwork book.

I don’t often adjust them, but when I do I remind myself that they are so handy.

also a nice weekend project with some good learning about joints and angles.
cheers

Hi,

riverbuilder & Wrongwayfirst - are you referring to something like this?
290 x 45mm Treated Pine Outdoor Timber Framing - Bunnings Australia

So you have 2 of these, flush side-by-side, that you have attached together somehow? How?
And then bolted the Mitre saw to these planks (with a roofing screw, as you state)

The ToughtBuilt C700 saw horses I have fold up nicely - but would be nice to be able to also store the framing timbers upright, against a wall, and out of the way when not in use (so it does mean removing those screws from the mitre saw base)

Thank you

Thanks Wrongwayfirst, I have seen this type of design at Ikea a few years back

I actually have a saw horse already, and my question was more around the "bench top" for the saw horse (sorry, I'm new to all this, so don't even know the terminology of what to ask for).
May have gone a bit OTT, as I bought these: C700 Sawhorse / Jobsite Table — TOUGHBUILT

Thx

An old solid core door makes a great worktop. I got one out of a skip about 40 years ago and still use it at times even if I do have a bench. There are times you have to work away from the shed. If you cant find an old door then beef up the ply with a couple of bits of wood underneath. 18mm ply is likely to be a bit bendy on its own.
Those are solid looking saw horses you got.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by orraloon

An old solid core door makes a great worktop. I got one out of a skip about 40 years ago and still use it at times even if I do have a bench. ...

Fully agree with John. I used a solid panel door as a work bench for twenty years. Just laid it across two saw horses. Guides, jigs, hold-downs, etc - just screw them onto the door with self tappers. Door gets daggy, turn it over, gets daggier => replace.

Bunnings, M10, etc regularly stuff up otherwise good doors (eg hinge and lock mortices on same side, damaged corners) and flog off these seconds at $10 or so. Did I say cheap!

Still use a "door bench" for some jobs.

Originally Posted by tomres

Thanks Wrongwayfirst, I have seen this type of design at Ikea a few years back

I actually have a saw horse already, and my question was more around the "bench top" for the saw horse (sorry, I'm new to all this, so don't even know the terminology of what to ask for).
May have gone a bit OTT, as I bought these: C700 Sawhorse / Jobsite Table — TOUGHBUILT

Thx

so for 1. Your saw horses can grab a 90 x 45 at both ends so in addition run two 90 x 45 perpendicular at the width of the mitre saw to make a crude “h” frame and you can screw your mitre saw to this. You don’t need a table for a mitre saw just need to hold the 4 feet.

for 2. You could make a similar “h” frame to support your ply.

I think riverbuiler meant lay the 290 side by side like planks giving you a 580 wide top.

others have since added the “door” bench which is perhaps a rite of passage for every wood worker.

cheers

I'd say go a different route and make a bench from scratch.

Making a workbench is an excellent starter project.

Disadvantages of using saw horses as proposed:
- As others have said they are not really designed for that purpose and can be a safety hazard
- Setting it up is a pain every time
- Uneven/bowed workbenches make life much more difficult, ie if you're making a cabinet a bowed surface will transfer to your project.
- If you're serious about woodworking, you'll make one eventually why not make it now and save yourself the aggrivation from now till when you do make one. The age old advice of do it once do it right comes into play here.
- Lets not forget basically non existent dust extraction

Do bit of brain storm as to what you want to build med - long term and you'll quickly narrow down the requirements for a workbench that you can knock together in a weekend or two.

I have the same type of saw horses. They are great as the height is adjustable to save the back. Also good if you are working on an uneven surface. I have set mine up on a slopping driveway with the legs at different heights. (If you look at the picture you will see how far the front leg is extended compared to the rear saw horse.
For the top I use a hollow door with a sheet of 6mm MDF glued to one side. The door is fairly light but to make it last longer I fitted a sacrificial sheet of MDF. Parts of the MDF sheet have been replaced as they got too chopped up. This has increased the weight of the door but it is still movable.
Just so you can compare with what you plan. My door is about 820 x 2040 mm. At the moment I also have another door (damaged with a fist hole in one side) which is 820 X 2340 for slightly longer jobs. Bigger doors are available but I got paid to replace these so my cost is minimal (just the MDF).
I also use the saw horses for my "router table". Just a bit of table top attached to two lengths of 90 x 35 in the saw horses, balanced with the "workbench" door and a couple of clamps.
This works for me as this is also where my car gets parked and I do not have the space for a dedicated router table and dust extraction (nor do I want to spend the money).

Wow, all your advice has been fantastic, and now I have so many options, thank you!!
Also thank you for the photo's!

I probably will start with either the door or framing pine options, as that will be the easiest - which will give me a great start to begin building an actual bench specifically suited to the Mitre saw.

Btw. my garage already has a fixed bench running along the wall, with storage space underneath.
The bench top is 215 x 60 (and 3mm thick). The trouble is, the wall is directly behind it, so I cannot slide the Mitre saw properly.

Thank you again for everyone's insights and advice!

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

I'd say go a different route and make a bench from scratch.. ...

Nah, rather difficult. You really need a bench to make a bench, or at least, I do.

After endless humming and ahhing because I have very limited spare bench space, last year I bought a Bosch mitre glide saw (MS).

My solution to my limited bench space was as follows.
The saw weighs weighs 32kg and sits on a thin rubber mat on a medium duty hydraulic lifter trolley, under one of my TS wings.
The trolley is this one J049 - LT-227 Hydraulic Lifter Trolley | Hare & Forbes Machineryhouse and weighs over 50kg and can take a load of 225kg.
With the MS being so heavy and sitting on the stickish rubber sheet I found I don't even have to attach it to the trolley.

It doesnt looked that well tucked away under the TS wing but it truly is.
Tuckedaway.jpg

Because of dust extraction issues I don't normally advocate moving machines around but I soon found being able to move it around has many advantages.
Being able to tuck it completely out of the way freeing up valuable bench top space is just the start.

I can wheel it up next to my shed door so that extra long stock pokes out the door - I have a couple of wheeled roller stands that can support the stock. A few months back I had to break up 4 lengths of 6.6m long 20x20mm SH Aluminium tube in multiples of 900, 700 and 625 mm lengths. I taped the 4 lengths together with gaffer and cut the required lengths in single strokes.
I used the bits to make an enclosure frame for my 3D printer.
enc3.JPG

To cut up a few piece of short stock inside the shed I find a shop vac and an exhaust fan is good enough - I have a dust particle counter running so I know what going on dust wise.
If I have to cut up lots of stock I wheel it outside and don't worry about fine dust extraction.

My brother was redoing the jarrah floorboards in is old house reno and wanted to borrow the saw. The thought of carrying 32kg around would have been a concern but there was zero carrying. I wheeled it out of the shed, 50m up the path alongside our house, and up a plank ramp into the back of my van and delivered it to his place. He kept it for a week, and same way back. The beauty of an hydraulic lift trolley is that, negotiating the rough brick paving, or moving it on the ramp , or moving anywhere, with the saw in the lowered position it's not going to tip over and just one ratchet strap in the back of the van will stop it moving around.

Next week I have to replace a section on the front veranda and will do the same thing.

I was initially worried that the effort needed to always have to get the MS out from under the TS would be a PITA but now that I see the other benefits I don't really worry about it.

I'm not suggesting you need to purchase the same trolley I did, but maybe think about making a dedicated trolley or stand. This will save you the hassle of lifting your saw on/off your bench.
But if you were to get a hydraulic lift trolley you could even park it under your trestle bench.