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Thread: My Jarrah Workbench
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23rd February 2013, 01:13 PM #31
Stunning piece of workmanship. Awesome!!
There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!
Tom Waits
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23rd February 2013 01:13 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd February 2013, 05:45 PM #32
A few more pictures.
A way of holding cabinet scrapers, it is hollowed so it touches top and bottom ,and grips the blade when the vice is tightened.
And holding saws,the saw holder needs an extra clamp for a bit more pressure on the blade , this jig just brings it up to a good height. I did end up getting a cast iron one as well
And the board for planing that I walk on . bench height is 950 without it 883 with it.
It has feet with nails sticking out.
Rob
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23rd February 2013, 05:51 PM #33
Wow -
I didn't notice the sliding deadman before - nice.Can you imagine what I would do if I could do all I can? -- Sun Tzu
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23rd February 2013, 10:50 PM #34
Beautiful work, thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Richard
"... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.
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24th February 2013, 08:21 PM #35New Member
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That bench is amazing something to dream about. Would you ever share the plans for it?????
Thanks marshy
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24th February 2013, 10:24 PM #36
Thanks enelef and Richard
marshy1888 "That bench is amazing something to dream about. Would you ever share the plans for it????? "
As in scale drawings , with a cutting list?
Yes I would .
I would have to draw them up and copy them. and you would have to PM me or email
regards Rob
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6th March 2013, 07:45 PM #37
Ok , I have been in PM conversations about plans and it's not going to happen that way, for various reasons .
Here are my dimensions and if you can use these to work out the in between bits please feel free.
Just one other thing ,I used wooden screws that we turned and then cut threads. At a later stage when one of my guys that worked here made his own bench , he turned his and cut his thread with saw and chisel and did the nut in two halves , like it's described in The Workbench Book by Scott Landis page 123. That worked fine except that the screw was laminated, better from one piece.
We have other benches in the workshop with the metal screw bought from Carbatec . From a closed position, Ten turns gives a gap of 50mm. With my Wooden one , Ten turns gives a gap of 124mm. A huge difference and a more pleasant vice to use. So if I was doing more I would either make more wooden ones , or get a nice old big Dawn or two with the quick release lever.
Rob's Bench dimensions
Over all length including tail vice end plate but not screw head 2290mm tail vice end plate is 77mm
Depth from front to back is 730mm add 75 mm for the face vice plate
The over hang to the base on the left is 85mm the right is 90mm and the front is 145 mm the back is 40 mm
The width of the leg fronts that the half columns are fixed to are 90mm
And the plinth is 130mm high.
my Top is 92mm thick the tail vice is 114mm high and the face vice is 185mm high
I was talking with Matt [ Berlin] about the tail vice construction and said I would lift the top and take some pictures, I am finding it hard to get around to it and hope to do it soon. when I was doing my bench the tail vice was the hardest bit to get my head around .
Regards Rob
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6th March 2013, 08:14 PM #38
No I hadn't asked ...
but I think it is a great thing you have done to help those whom have questionsregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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7th March 2013, 01:20 PM #39Intermediate Member
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Auscab, Beautiful bench!
I am in the process of dreaming/designing a bench, so your dimensions are good to have! just one question... how wide and deep is the well at the back?
Cheers!
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7th March 2013, 01:59 PM #40
The well is 2040 long x 281 x 65
Rob
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7th March 2013, 11:27 PM #41
My Jarrah Workbench
Thanks for all the dimensions, Rob. I've been dilligently drawing up my plans... I'm getting great aim hitting the bin with screwed up paper
Cheers
Matt...I'll just make the other bits smaller.
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8th March 2013, 08:33 PM #42
What style of vices do you want to do ? Same as what I did ?
I got my top figured out first then fitted the base to it. in drawings.
Back in those days after the rough sketches I drew to scale 1:10 on a flat board with a T square and two set squares,[ I have a mechanical drawing board now] the flat board needs one straight edge along the bottom and you only ever use the T square off that to get your vertical lines and a Plastic set square slides up and down off that to give you horizontal lines. don't be tempted to use the T off the side to get horizontal lines ,I have done this to many times and things always go wrong, every time.
I'm not aiming this at you Matt or anybody ,just feel like getting it off my chest
Its good practice to do this with bench building because if you have a bench and you want to make some good furniture, it just cant happen if it is not drawn to scale. plenty of people get by with out doing this but you will only get better if you do do it. it pays of in quite a few ways. And was the way it was done in the old days, there is NO way they built like they did in 1750 to 1780 without drawings, and before and after [ Am I ranting ? ] and computers are fine if that's all some one can draw with but in my opinion they are not as good when it comes to this creative business
Drawing like this, a person can design a bench a table , chairs, anything,, quickly, and the same technique will allow you to turn that into a full size plan if you need it. Then into matching jigs and templates. Some things like Chairs and sofa's and more complex cabinets need to be done full size sometimes. A computer does it all but what about the full size plan if I need it. And how much does it cost to print it out ?
Ive got a pencil and a rubber in my hand and I can make this !! for you [ Your chair or cabinet ] , and they will look at the drawing and believe you . compared to , sorry I'm having problems with my computer ATM can you come back ? well, sometimes maybe .
I apologize for the rant and rave and am happy to explain more about the drawing side if any one wants to talk more about it.
regards Rob.
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9th March 2013, 07:13 PM #43
Here are some pictures of the under side and the tail vice
For the top to cover most of the base without a large overhang where the tail vice is fitted it required a bit of changing from plans in the book. Looking at it again has me scratching my head about where I started with it . There is a square block in the underside showing where the top sits on the front right leg at the tail vice
Same with the face vice , the guide rails slide in two trenches cut in the underside of the top,and the top rail of the base is cut for a loose fit as well.
The cover plate on the tail vice was glued and is coming away ,I need to figure out a way to fix it. that is another bit I would do different . Not so sure about screws in my bench top though.
There is a list of things that have to line up in the underneath picture of the whole top. The sliding board jack groove top and bottom are at different points in off the front edge of the bench . It has to miss the dog holes and they have to be out of the way of the base , and in line with the Thread in the tail vice. And the face vice starts it's overhang off the front of the bench at its nut.
cheers Rob
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9th March 2013, 08:21 PM #44
My 1st semester out of 4 at trade school was mostly spent in the classroom learning drawing, design, construction, handtool use and maintenance, and taking safety tests. Any questions we had about our hypothetical jobs were met with a stern " Make the drawing tell you ! ".Cheers, Bill
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9th March 2013, 09:58 PM #45
They were telling me the same thing Bill I was doing the work at trade school but at the age of 19 had my mind on other things most of the time eleven years later I needed the information they had shown me.
Rob
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